DirtyComanche

What is considered to be the maximum reliable amount of torque than an AX-15 can hold? I'm not talking one run, but actually having the thing last a while. I'm betting it's below 300ft-lbs...

I'd say you've got problems if your 'goal' is to hit the next level for postings... Only 1109 posts till I hit the next one 8)

my aw4, and most that i have talked to are 3.07 Highly doubt. If it is, I want a picture of the tags and proof that it was orig, as it does change things (for me). 4.0 5-speed should be 3.07 4.0 and automatic should be 3.55

It probably has other issues. I drove mine with an open header for a long time. The 'power loss' is over-played. The stock header even has an awesome built in restriction to help keep some back pressure anyways.

To farther elaborate on the tube/pipe thing: There is structural grade 'pipe'. It isn't really pipe, per se. It is basically low grade HREW tubing that is sized as pipe, and therefor can be used as pipe. It is relatively common, and inexpensive in comparison with DOM/CREW and often even HREW. However, the low strength limits its usage (the same goes for HREW). The best application for it is sliders or fenders that will see repetitive impacts and abrasions as you can buy it in a thick wall (sch 80) for a much lower price than comparable tubing. The thin wall stuff works well to build accessories (tire carriers, roof racks) and such on a budget. Chromemoley, chromoly, chromo, or 4130 tubing is expensive at the best of times, and while it is meant to be easily welded it REALLY needs post-welding stress relief and heat treatment to make it worthwhile. All of which is expensive. Also, the HF pipe kinker can be modded to work a LOT better. It is a huge PITA to do. The dies need to be machined out (a die grinder with a carbide burr and a steady hand can do it) so that the pipe fits in it snugly and evenly seats in it. The dies also need to be smoothed out and polished to prevent them from marking the pipe. Then the followers (rollers) need to be machined to fit the pipe correctly or replaced with non-roller followers (aluminum is a good idea) that fit the pipe snugly and will distribute the load well. Beyond that, grease it up a bit before bending, put the seam on the pipe inwards, and make sure the pipe is clean... It can work fine. Personally, I bought a JD2 tube bender and a couple dies (1.5 and 1.75). A few of my friends have the same bender, and thus I can borrow/trade to get most of the other dies (1" and perhaps a 1.5" pipe die would be nice to have). It is expensive, but a good quality product.

Actually, I'm going to feel for a SD33 or SD33T again... Maybe I can find one locally. If I had that one shipped to me, I bet it would be at LEAST $500 in shipping.

I get my blems for $100 cnd. Other than they aren't actually blems, just returns that have no issues. Guess it's not a bad deal, seeing as it is about $50 cheaper than the cheapest lead/acid craptacular battery would be. And I don't have to pay the damn $10 battery eco-fee that way. So, $60 less than a battery that will leak everywhere and cause corrosion all over my engine bay. I can live with that.

I'd take the damn thing whole. Too bad it is a SD-33, not a SD-33T. But you could make a pretty awesome light diesel truck out of one. The CJ-10 cab, a new frame (or stretch that one), and a flat-deck or a willys P/U style box... I have too many 'good' plans and no where near the time, space, money, or technical skills to see them all though. Darn.

I have it on very good authority that the blue and yellow are the same internally. But, the blue comes with the marine style posts, along with the regular posts. And I would never run a spillable battery again... Because they spill. If I wasn't going to buy an optima, I'd buy that other gel cell (whatever it is, odyssey? Cross that bridge when I get there).

They'll be crap. Just like all of the made in china ones, and half of the 'domestically' produced ones. Buy a used warn 8274 instead.

Well, then, you need like 3 wires. The red one off the HEI is ignition power. The other one off the HEI is tach signal (not needed, per se). Then you need a trigger wire for the starter solenoid, that would be crank. And you need power to the starter solenoid/starter, straight from the battery. So, turn the red one on for ignition on. Then put a button on your starter trigger, and push it to crank the engine over/start. That's assuming a mechanical fuel pump, and no electric choke or anything stupid. Yes, it is in fact that simple. If you want to wire it into the factory column to use your key, etc, it's not hard either. You could figure it out with a multimeter, but if I'm really nice I'll look in my e-manual or see if I have the wiring diagram for mine somewhere.

That article is hmmm, 5 years old maybe?

I have a red top. An old one. I bought it a couple years ago (maybe 4 or 5), and it was slightly used (know a dealer, he gets 'returned' batteries that are fine). I left it in my MJ for over a YEAR without having started it or driven it, took it out and threw it in the back of my dodge and took it to PG. Two months later I stuck it in my GMC and fired it right up. Before then I used it to drive the truck on the starter, lots... And some other bad things. It always worked good. Cold or hot. And it doesn't cause nasty corrosion. That said, I've heard there might be some issues with some of the recent ones. There has been a lot more negative reviews in the last few years than I'd ever heard before. So, as to if I'd buy a new one now... I don't know. I probably still would.

There is some awesome 'how not to' tech in there. What's funny is when I run into something on there that I'd seen advertised on one of my local forums (there's a couple)...

Check TPS.

The removable mirrors thing didn't work out for me. Mine loosened up. Eventually I closed the door with the jeep on my trailer, and the mirror fell off and broke on the pavement.

:agree: I was going to suggest the 'rocker replacement' method.

It could go two different ways, at least as I see it. They will be made where labour is incredibly cheap (China and India are the strongholds for that right now), OR they will be made in fully automated facilities. Same goes for just about ANY assembly line job. And the western world was/is stupid to not see it. Hence, I work in an occupation which is probably impossible to be replaced by automation (if automation gets that far, nobody will have jobs anyways), and very unlikely that it could ever be done effectively overseas (again, if it comes to that, well I'll cross that bridge when I get there). Oh, and, I'd almost say I feel sorry for Fiat for acquiring Chrysler. Maybe they can turn it around if they're selective enough about what they produce. But, they might have a tough time if they wind up competing with GM who WILL be on the bailout bankroll from now on :shake:

We're getting off base... I'm tracking down a Warn 8274 to go on the front of this thing. A modern winch would fit better... However, I decided the 8274 is more suiting for what I intend. And I had to redesign how the entire front frame will go together, since apparently D60s turn to 40* stock. Oops. Otherwise I'm back at work, so nothing will get done for a while...

A VIN would clear it up pretty fast. But I guarantee that if it came down to that, it'll probably have an 86 VIN on a later body and he'll claim "They registered it as an 86 even though it really was an 85, it's for the DMV's sake". Or it'll have an 85 XJ VIN and he'll say "They weren't officially producing comanches at that point, so they registered them as cherokees".

True. This comes down to the case of comparing grades of manure. It's all $#!& in the end.

I'd say his own ad is contradictory. That is a SWB. He claims that: And 86 debuted LWBs only. Oops.

Tracking numbers are presumably legit, apparently he shipped it yesterday. @#$%ed lied to me on the phone. Ohwell. But it does appear to be shipped.

If it isn't the belt, the pump is probably going. It seems that when they go they still work at a limited amount above idle, for a while. Eventually they degrade to doing just about nothing.

Awesome I just about talked myself into buying one of their plasmas. Really glad I didn't. The more research I do the more displeased customers I find.