DirtyComanche

Some prototype that didn't/won't make it to production... Or something. There was a couple threads on it.

I'm pretty certain that came out of the Williams Lake newspaper... It's a town about 3 hours south of me, and they are feverantly opposed to wal-mart having anything to do with their town. But I could be wrong.

That said, a SYE is still a useful upgrade.

I didn't know you couldn't exceed 2500rpm in low range with it - that's totally useless. Unless they're getting at 'continuous' usage, even then that's pretty useless. I've said it before, I don't think it makes ANY sense to buy one. They're too expensive for what you actually get out of it. Which is a 4:1 low, and that's it. A rubicon NP241J (NP241OR) is similarily priced, 4:1, and has upgraded front and rear outputs from the get-go; you just need to do some flange changing and such. For the price of either option... I'd probably save a few more dollars and buy either a stak or an atlas. And I'm leaning towards stak there - the mini-monster 3spd is attractive as it offers a lot better gearing options (like, 5.4:1, and 3.8:1 for one set, or something like 4:1 and 2.7:1 for another). That way you have another selectable low gear. Atlas 4spds also offer some usage, but their gear split isn't as usable as the stak. Atlas is fully synchro'd, but it still doesn't shift worth anything when not moving from what I've seen. The stak isn't synchro'd, but you can shift while not moving with it. Parts in both are way more HD than anything ment for production vehicles.

Good deal.

I really do. I am so not suited for it... And the plaster job over the water-damaged wall cracked yesterday. It's now peeling back pretty bad. I think they might not have fixed the leak that caused the water damage in the first place. I did a little complaining, but I imagine I won't get anywhere unless I do a lot of complaining and start invoking rights from the tennants act. Everything in the building is half-assed, they made it look pretty when they reno'd it over the course of the last couple years (half of it is still being renovated, but they haven't worked on it in months). Being that it's located on skid-row and reserve st doesn't help either. Even more amusingly... I found a mls listing to buy one of the units. Listed price is 86 000. And it's 'recently renovated' just like mine! Guess I'm at the point that I'm pissed off about it enough that I'll find somewhere else to rent. Moving is going to suck...

Wow. I would like to see how my parent's cat reacts to a bunny that big.

I dunno about not being able to get welding done in a remote place... I figure the more remote it is the more likely somebody has a welder so they can fix their own junk. Look for a machine shop, or a welding outfit... Do the prep, sinch the ubolts down and drive easy. A job that big is pretty much a beer job in most shops that don't do small stuff. Or, just buy the 8.8 and weld the perches on, then swap it when you do the rest of the lift. Might as well not do the work twice.

Actually, that's why I bought my chevy (did I tell the story of that pile here? I know I've admitted I owned it), because I don't have either of my jeeps where I live/work and I'll admit I don't have a lot of hobbies other than trucks/cars/wheeling. I found I wound up in the bar (or drunk at buddy's house) way too often because I simply had nothing else to do. I figure its costing me roughly the same amount as a drinking habit - but I have a super redneck truck to show for it this way.

Besides the mentioned H1 beadlocks... Hutchinson makes a DOT approved double beadlock that is eerily like the H1, but aluminum. Which makes sense since hutchinson made the H1 locks. At about $450 a rim, they aren't exactly a bargin. However, they make them in either 15" or 16" sizes. For some reason the H1 had to run 16.5" rims. And to really make things fun... Non DOT-approved beadlocks are still legal. There is no law specifying that beadlocks aren't legal, nor anything stating you MUST run DOT approved wheels. I want to run H1s because they're cheap. Unfortunatly, being limited to used tires or intercos kinda sucks. The used tires aren't a great deal for me - with shipping I could buy something perfectly new. I don't think interco makes anything that actually fits the bill for me. I think I'm going to buy some stazworks... They have ones that aren't overly flashy, and the price is actually reasonably comparable to recentered H1s. And I can just get a 16" dealio and it'll clear my brakes fine.

It seems nothing is made for a 16.5" rim anymore... Interco still does, but they're it. Kinda sucks.

And you can always use gear oil with the friction modifier for a L/S in a regular diff... A lot of the gear oil has it in it.

What year is the axle? Things got tricky in 78 and later... Although, if you use ford radius arms ultimately that's the same as most 'long arm' setups.

Mine has most of the interior, and all the wiring out of my XJ in it. I filled the cab to the roof, I had to shove the last of it in through the window, which I rolled up most of the way to the top so it would stop stuff from pouring out. Otherwise, I bought it as a DD, turned it into a wheeler/DD, got annoyed with the weekend warrior limitations, built it into a specific trail rig, broke it, then put it on the back-burner. I'm estimating my XJ to be done by 2014, so I'll start working on it in early 2015. :doh:

Isnt that bolt a external torx???? It can be. I think only 84-86 though.

Oh, okay, oops. So they are the same as an early GM setup. Well, that changes things.

If it was poster sized, it would be kinda cool.

Actually, I have that problem too. I'm pretty sure it got wedged in there well enough that, short of cutting things apart, I won't be seeing it again. Maybe a violent roll-over would release it though.

Hit it with a hammer? You should be able to get a wedge under the lip somewhere without TOO much difficulty.

My MJ had about 300 000kms on it when I pulled the odometer... It hasn't had much since then.

When I tore down my current XJ, I found a socket on the bolt for the clutch master cyl... Then I found a couple more in various places when I took the interior out. My chevy pile... I filled a whole popcorn bucket with random tools I found while working on it. There was a ton of stuff in the engine bay, under the seats, in the bed under the garbage it came with, etc.

A dirty trick is to either use assembly fluid #1 on the o-ring to stick it in place, or to superglue the o-ring in place and then coat it with vaseline or assembly fluid. Or, sealube, as it works okay for keeping the o-ring place. It's similar to assembly fluid #1, but isn't soluble in fuel (or much else for that matter) so basically once it's on there it will be there forever. If the tank is out, I'd recommend a little vaseline on the o-ring... Or assembly fluid. It'll make it much easier to get the lock ring engaged/locked without potentially damaging the o-ring.

Yeah, you're correct... I was thinking chevy when I was typing. That's the problem with owning too many vehicles. You just have to make sure you're suitably low on fuel before you pull the pump/sender out. The only thing that can be a PITA is that the driveshaft might be smack dab in your way depending on the specifics of the truck.

Not all of them are like that. Some have regular bolts. That goes for both ends of the UCAs. I don't know if there's a rhyme or reason to it. If they're torx, and they are rusted, I'd probably save myself wasting frusteration and just cut the the nut off it and hammer the bolt out. Why waste time if it's going to be replaced?

Lots of junk can do it... I can't think of anything off the top of my head that is 'typical'. The quick way to start eliminating things is to get an amp clamp, or run an ammeter inline with the positive cable (NOT a fan of this) and then start pulling fuses, one by one, and see if the amperage drops when you pull one in praticular. Then you at least have a starting point for what circuit is the culprit. And if there's any hack wiring on the truck, I always suspect that. You know, that wiring that some PO did trying to 'fix' something or install a stereo or whatever. My chevy has more hack wiring than proper wiring - it took me about a half hour to figure out how it was actually capable of starting and running.