DirtyComanche

So, in the US when you get hit by somebody without insurance, what happens?

Don't totally agree... For anything but a bush truck, a spool is stupid. Or a drag car, as you said. You can drive them on the street quite fine, and I did so. But, it's so hard on tires it isn't worth it if you drive lots. Also, people look at you funny when you squak your tires trying to park. Otherwise they drive FINE. You won't break anything that you weren't already going to break. IE, if you can produce a high enough torque loading on an axleshaft in a parking lot to break it, it was going to fail on the trail anyways! Often you have HIGHER traction, or at least resistance on the tires to moving, offroad than on. However, a spool is totally inappropriate for what the O/P wants.

I have one... The only reason for it is the 4.0L rad is wide, and would not fit with my narrowed clip. It worked well enough. I had issues, but that was my fault. However, it's totally bizzar because the coolant throughout the entire system gets to very different temperatures depending on the ambient temperature, engine load, and the fans... The temp would normally come up pretty hard - then the thermostat would open and the temperature would drop about 30 degrees in a couple seconds... Whenever I get back to it, I will drill a hole in the tstat to prevent it from swinging so violently. I also think I need a higher flow water pump. I would have to push the rpm up to about 1000 or it would over-heat at idle (albiet, idle is about 250rpm), just from lack of flow... To do it ALL over again, I would avoid the whole rear-mount setup. It was a huge PITA to bleed it. And you've got to run two hoses from the front of the engine to the back of the cab. Which might sound easy, but it isn't. Especially if you were contending with having factory wiring/interior of some sorts. I ran the one hose through the firewall where the fuse box was before, and the other through where the HVAC blower used to go. I couldn't come up with an acceptable method of running it under the cab. There isn't space between the frame rails with a tcase, driveshafts, link suspension, exhaust, etc. And you can't put it near the exhaust, or it won't work well at all... I thought about running it through some of my exo-cage or the sliders. This MIGHT have been a decent option, but the risk is you will damage your cage to the extent that you lose your coolant. And it would be even harder to bleed the system, not to mention having 'heated' rock sliders wouldn't be the best thing. If the uniframe wasn't the way it is, I'd actually try putting a hose inside the frame rails.

It's a tossup... For actual DD duties the LWB might be more useful, as it can fit more junk. Although, the short bed does just fine for most use, and parking is a breeze even in those crappy places called cities... For building a wheeler, I'd go short. For building more of an expo rig (long distances, camping, etc) I'd probably go long. For a street truck (lowered, v8 swap, etc) I'd probably still go short - it weighs less and I think the porportions look better. However, if the truck has a rake, I think the long bed looks better. So, umm, how about a couple of each?

You can shift-on-the-fly at almost any speed... Or you should be able to. The trick is having the wheel speeds all relatively equal, so going straight without having the rear tires spinning is best. The case might be a little worn, and thus not so happy about synchronizing. Short of a rebuild, too bad. I'd probably drive around town with it in 4wd all the time. That's what I did before I got my dodge... With it I shifted in and out, and what do you know? I broke the freaking tcase.

Always a sad site... The dent in the box is probably a result of being handled in the yard too... Is that an intercooler on the roof :nuts:

2.8L dog... Wish I could find something that clean, with a 4.0, and local, but for a lower price!

The chrome ones are actually robust enough that you can remove and install them a couple times without breaking them. I'd leave them chrome... It won't rust.

I forgot about the cracking head problem. I might look into that, was that only a 01 and later thing...? I do have a 'spare' head (or so think) off a 95 HO (I think). A guy I work with, his cherokee threw a couple rods, so the head is hopefully mine whenever it works out. And I knew it was LP. I told the sales guy that without looking at it, and told him it made it undesirable. I also told him the tcase in the WJ he was trying to sell me was a POS (NV249 or whatever, with the crappy VC). I'll have to bring up the head issue tomorrow. Edit: The 0331 head showed up in mid 99.

Yeah... Probably a really stupid idea... But, I'm pissed about the failed tcase. I talked to the local boneyard, and they want 895 for an 'as pulled' tcase + 250 for the core charge :headpop: My other sources aren't coming back so well yet ($1000, no core, etc). Or I could rebuild it if I can get a rebuild kit cheap and easily... Providing it is actually rebuildable (who knows). But as is, its freaking useless because they hardly plow the roads here and a lack of 4wd in a diesel long box = getting stuck everywhere and having to back down hills you couldn't climb... Anyways, the dealer down the corner has a NICE 01 XJ (black, alloy rims) sitting on the lot. 4dr, 4.0/AW4, forgot to look at the rear end (I'm not as sharp as I used to be). Had lower milage (190K kms). And the other dealer has a 99 that's not so 'hott' (crappy rims, and it's white, not that white can't look good) looking, 4dr, 4.0/AW4, again forgot about the rear end. (About the same milage). Both were SUPER agressive salemen. You could practically see the drool when they saw my CTD. Why? Generally a CTD actually has resale value here (decent milage, heavy duty, etc) so regardless if it's a 94 they know they can flip it easily enough. Especially given that mine doesn't look majorly defective. So, I could get either with my truck and a small amount of cash. About the same price as the tcase. It's a bad deal, and I know it, but that's what happens when you're talking to a dealer. I haven't used my truck as a truck very much recently... Pound a lot of highway, and I drive it to work. I still have a trailer, but I don't have a rig to tow. The only thing I'm worried about is my constant problem with buying junk (axles, engines, steel) which is a lot nicer to put in the box of a truck. Stupid? I dunno. Probably. I'm gonna do some test driving tomorrow for the fun of it.

Awesome... Change the lock cylinder... Or the whole colum. Look in the boneyard for one that has the options you want, and comes with keys. Or, hire a locksmith. Or, I could tell you which wires to cross for the temp fix.

I drove with a full spool and drive flanges on the street. Stupid, yes. Dangerous, not really. You have perfect control at anything over about 15km/h, unless you're on snow/ice which is a little harry. Your tires will hate you, however.

Front should be 3x.375" tubes.

Umm, does the 'kitty' have one eye?

Good thing he wasn't any talller... Wonder if it is a pre-programmed sequence?

Not a good story... I was stuck in the parking lot at work, shifted into 4wd, heard some really bad noises and what I would call a bang, found I was definatly still in 2wd. Did all the usual BS since it has a CAD (wiggle back and forth to make sure it engaged). Seems the front driveshaft doesn't turn while in 4wd... And I shifted it through neutral to 4lo to verify my shift linkage isn't screwed, nope. So, yeah, guess the chain went. Or I broke the 2/4 shift collar or something... Goes into low range though. The CAD did appear to work, and the 4wd light did come on, and front D/S dun' turn. Tomorrow I'll put it in the hangar and swear at it. That is, if I can get it back to work tomorrow.

So, it seems I lunched my transfer case. Yeah. Really happy.

I don't think the 'outie' plugs are very common. I rarely ever see them. Of course, you must realize, I have an internal hexing plug in one of mine. No, it's not factory, since all you need is the correct sized NPT plug which you can source in just about any style. Anyways, what I actually wanted to say is that LOTS of specifics to jeeps are actually fairly consistant save the occasional deviant. However, given that the vehicles in question have probably had 20 years of hit-or-miss maintenace and the potential for being modified, you will run into different things. Bottom line - identifying an axle based on the PLUG is freaking stupid.

That's a good one! I haven't had a rhubard pie in a while...

I have similar feelings... I have a couple for unkown amounts in my wallet. Yay. One of them is for a store that isn't anywhere near where I live. And if I ever did go to either place, I doubt I'd remember I had the card. What really cracks me up is when I do actually spend them, the cashier always asks me 'Do you want to reload that?'. Yeah, that's exactly what I want to do. I just spent the $50 on it, but hey, it was fun, so lets put another $50 on it so I can start thinking of a reason to come back here... Oh, I got some stuff. Guess I could talk about that. A couple books, a shirt and socks, and some weights... Maybe some other stuff I forgot about. Anyways, more than I really expected since I didn't want anything that was within a reasonable price range. I'd say the best part about it was I got to see my parents and brother, which I hadn't really counted on given how random my work schedule is.

This comes up often. Too often. So, where the heck does this HORRIBLE tidbit of misinformation come from? Jeepforum? Jeepsunlimited? NAXJA? Somebody tell me - I'll nip it in the butt or get banned trying...

Nice pic from the safeway parking lot... Change the o-rings on your fuel injectors before you burn the truck down. They're cheap.

Got an incinerator? That or the bacterial cleaner. Otherwise, I wouldn't offer you a proper solution. If it was a smaller quantity I might just bag it and take it to the local dump, which isn't really right but would work fine. If you get the EPA involved there will be a huge legal hassle...

Adding gas isn't a good idea. I know if you add Jet A-1 it works great. But that's not really an option for a lot of people.

The letter of the law for chains on that road is either 'good' winter tires or carry chains, november-april. Unless you're over 7000Kg or something... But, it's definatly not a bad idea to carry them. Especially if you go up to Big White. The Coquihalla is all good road, the road up to Big White is not. I don't recall the drive up to Sun Peaks, its been at least 6 years since I've been there, but I don't think its too bad. If you want to hit up another good mountain in the area, I'd also recommend Silver Star (just outside Vernon). The road up to it isn't too bad - better than up to Big White IIRC. And it often isn't as busy of a mountain. Anyways, the C/T cables should get you through anything you'll see on any of those roads. If you don't have a good set of winter tires, or well siped A/Ts or such, I'd recommend them. I was driving from PG to Vernon yesterday and wound up being the only witness to a fatal accident - it really wasn't pretty. If the roads are slick/icy, especially if it's mostly good but bad in small areas, good winter tires can make all the difference between losing control and not. Drive safe and have a good trip!