garmj

I work in the used car biz and once a car qualifies for the Cash For Clunkers and is traded in It is issued a Certificate Of Destruction and can't be registered ANYWHERE in the U.S. and they require the dealer to Destroy the vehicle. They can't sell it even if they want to. This is really hurting used car dealers who are already suffering from a lack of quality trade-ins.My inventory is already down by 50% and it doesnt look like its going to get any better. :mad:

The expansion valves changed in those years,so you can use the 92 evap and expansion valve the lines and compressor will probably be different as will the compressor bracket.Go online to your fav parts store and compare part numbers for the x valve between the years and see if there is a difference. Good Luck

Close. The reduction in heat in the cabin doesn't come from making the evap cold, but from making the refridgerant change state in the evap (from a liquid to a gas) by boiling it. This takes heat energy, which comes from the air passing through the evap fins. Yea if you buy into what they teach you in A/C school (I am ASE certified in A/C) Just grab a hold of an evaporator when the A/C is running, Its COLD. My explaination was aimed at the layman.Most people thing of boiling as in boiling water (hot) not boiling off to a gas as in Freon or R134a. :cheers:

Check with the dealer some lines may still be available because the will also fit a Cherokee.Also some A/C shops can make hou a new one if you take the old one to them. Good Luck

Line from compressor to condenser and from condenser to expansion valve are HIGH pressure, the expansion valve converts high pressure to low pressure in the evaporator, making the evap cold then the line from the evap is a low pressure line.Hope this helps.

Capacity acording to my Motors manual is 2.38 pounds of R12 if you are retrofiting to R134a use about 75% or around 2 pounds.

Over the years I have replaced literally hundreds of tie rod ends and I can tell ya all the thread counting,marking and measuring you can do will only get you CLOSE.I have done this for years only to find that the toe is out 1/8-3/8" out, I guess that is ok if your tires are cheaper than an alignment.But after you wear out your tires you will have to get an alignment anyway. :dunno:

The XJ has a full cluster also and the cluster it self isnt an issue but I want to keep the MJ spedo if possable cause it has 100k less miles on it and the gages from the clusters don't match.If I have too I will. Can I just get a new 91 fuel pump and install it on the 90 tank unit?

My Mj is a 2.5 5 speed the donor is a 1991 4.0 sefi auto 4x4. I am looking forward to the 6 cyl power and the auto tranny. I really don't need or want the 4:10 gears I have now so I will probably install the xj rear and weld new perches in the proper position. The fuel pump is another matter can I remove the MJ pump and replace with an XJ pump? I plan on retaining the MJ cluster so sending unit rewiring won't be a problem. Does the 91 tranny have a cable driven spedo? Man I wish I had this donor when I was building this truck a few months ago. :doh: Now I have to remove the dash again. :fs1:

I hope its a real long time the one i plan on transplanting already has 265k on it. :nuts:

I am planning to transplant the drive train fron a 1991 XJ 4.0 auto 4x4 into my 1990 MJ 2.5 stick 2x4. How much wiring will need to be changed? What about the fuel pump? Instrument cluster? What about the rear diff,don't wana go soa? I don't need the ground clearance just the 4.0 and the traction for boat ramps. I just bought this XJ and the wife will be driving it till I get her EXploder repaired. Then maybe later I will get her a nicer newer XJ. :D

When people came into the Midas shop I worked at I would tell them that resetting maintanance lights was not included in the price of an oil change since not all cars have them and resetting the light would cost them an extra diagnostic charge of $69.95. But I would also tell them that if they read the owners manual they could do it themself. Amazing how quick people learn to read. :idea:

A new headliner is available (both the cloth and the backing board) on Ebay for about $135 your choice of colors. Search Comanche headliner and you will find him. Material and the proper adhesive will cost you about $35.00 to cover a used board yourself. These boards are hard to find,harder to ship and a pain to properly clean them so new material will stay stuck.Over the years I have literally covered a thousand headliners so I have a little experience with these (worked for a used car dealer). In florida a headliner won't last more than 5 years.The one on my 04 Dakota is already comming down @ 34000 miles. Heat kills the foam rubber backing. :fs1:

Definatly follow philberts suggestions,as a former paint/body guyhe is on the money. On my truck however I sanded everything with 220 and then wet sanded the entire truck wirh 320 and a scuff pad,washed thoroughly with soap and water ,let it dry ,tack ragged it and sprayed it OUTSIDE. Other than a couple of small animals stuck in the roof it looks great (they will wet sand out).The pics I have are where it was painted.Wasnt looking for a custom job just a presentable one. :D

Just did mine because of a cracked exhaust manifold. There are2 bolts that you have to get from underneath the manifold, all it takes is a 6" extension and a swivel socket and ita a done deal.Exhaust pipe bolts and EGR tube are harder to deal with. Once you get the air cleaner box and PS pump outa the way it aint bad. :cheers: