DirtyComanche

The chaincase around the front output is a lot bigger to accomodate the larger sprocket and 32 spline output. However, it's not like I'll have a problem with it rubbing my floor.

This is what I need, I think: http://advanceadapters.com/product/3721/(P/N-AS-8603)-Atlas-Transfer-Case-3/4%22-Install-Spacer.html I might phone them and see if it 'should' work or whatever.

Test fit of NP241 to AW4: Image Not Found The gap is about .500", using my calibrated eyeball. I'll give myself a +/-.250" tolerance on that. Anyways, obviously the long input on the 241 is bottoming on the output of the AW4. I have a couple options. I can cut the input down - it is splined as deep as a short input so there is no need for the extra engagement. I could potentially swap the 23 spline NP231 input in - I don't know if I can but I suspect I can. Or I can just buy a clocking plate for a D300 that is .750" thick, and get a couple birds stoned at once. Probably going to go that route - I know Novak makes one but it includes some useless seals and jazz. Advance might have one for atlas applications, I will have to look into that. NP231 tail-housing on NP241 chain-case: Image Not Found So, the bolt holes don't line up. Darn. It could be redrilled, but it wouldn't be ideal. However, on the contrary to what I thought, the NP241 chaincase is no wider/deeper than the NP231. That was measured by eye, again, as I left my calipers in PG. So, my NP231 SYE mainshaft should work, but I will need a NP241 SYE tail-housing. NP241 vs NP231 tail-housing: Image Not Found No point in this picture, but it shows the different patterns and you can sorta tell the rear bearing is larger on the NP241. So, yeah, didn't do a lot today but I needed to try that.

Plans change, don't tell me ya ain't never been there. :nuts:

Towing with a 2wd in snow is ALL about momentum. And unloading your jeep to recover your tow rig when that fails.

So... Did something. Got the shell mostly gutted. Enough for now, I think. I left some peices that need to be removed as they aren't really going to be in the way for now. And I levelled it out decently. The rear is a sagging a hair (about 1/8"), but that shouldn't matter. Image Not Found And my small collection of 1-tons + a D30 and some christmas lights. I have a 14B FF too, but I haven't picked it up yet. Image Not Found I'm fairly close to being able to start on my frame rails, I think. I can't buy steel tomorrow, so I think I might try BSing with my NP241 and see if it will adapt to the AW4.

You guys are calling out parts... I'd be haggling for the whole thing. Looks fixable to me.

A bunch of guys are. There's a few threads on it. I'm not telling you to search, but you could see lots of pics in a hurry if you did. Personally, I think I like the older ones... But I'm undecided.

Actually... Just got released. Driving back home tomorrow. 2 weeks off... Then 2 weeks of heli-skiing lined up

I think I put both of my XJ projects in the 'MJ projects' section. Did I sin?

Sure. But I won't guarantee the quality. Remember, I 'showed up' for highschool, and never went to anything but a vocational school after that.

Yeah, well, we'll see about that... Most of our big customers aren't spending the money like they normally do. Not that we're really hurting, at least not in the big picture. Our operations in this country aren't really doing that well. But, in reality, there will always be some work. It's just horrible sitting around when I've got about 5 years worth of projects to do at home. Although, I'm sure some people would think I've got a pretty good gig, getting $48 a day for meals (tax free), $35 for being out of town, plus my regular salary, all for just sitting around.

I'm starting to get cabin fever... I'm stuck 'up north'. And we aren't working at all... There is 6 choppers sitting. We did an inspection on the one 20 hours early because we had NOTHING else to do. I spent half of my '8 hour' working day hiding, and the other half of it building special tools that I probably won't need anytime. Then they told me they want me to stay another day so I can get some 'sleep management' training or something. I think I'm doing pretty good at sleeping with the lax work schedule.

Well, no, not really... I have a NP241D out of a cummins truck to swap in instead of the 231. May or may not work. And that's about it. But, if it does work, it should fit the bill fairly well. Basically I've been screwed with work. I'm 'on tour', and I was only working 10 hour days... Well, that fell apart and I'm down to 8 hour days. Which is NOTHING. I need a week and a half straight off before I will even bother to go back south to work on this thing. Yet, I can't burn all the over-time (or go negative, not that my company cares as long as I'm even at the end of the year) because I need the over-time payout to go to my 'buying a house whenever I find one I like and that I feel financially secure enough to do so' fund.

That's awesome... But maybe only because I have a Sierra myself (truck, not a daughter...)

Factory thing for early automatics... Just plays with how the tranny shifts.

There is 2 plugs on the rear of the case. Lower is drain, upper is fill, should be filled to the bottom of the upper plug.

And how did that go? I see them out in the wild every now and then, but generally I steer clear... I imagine they might be cute and cuddly, but I kinda doubt it...

There's lots of junk like that around where I work... They also have ones that don't have augers, but big brushes in them instead. I don't know what the reasoning is, but they go out when its only light snow, I guess it cleans ALL of the snow off the runway. Of course, for us, we always just dig the machines out by hand. Its not like we have to clear a runway for a helicopter. Oh, and rotary snowplows are pretty cool. I've seen lots of pictures of them chewing through snow deeper than they are tall.

Well, the 2.8 is really slow. Things to consider: -Engine width, praticularily with the headers (or exhaust manifolds and downpipes) installed. Typically, you can't make anything fit but the stock manifolds, or in some cases block hugger headers. Oh, watch the driveshaft and oil pan clearance - a 4.0L is installed 2" to the passenger side to help with this, but you WON'T have the space to do that with a V8. -Engine height, with whatever gizmos go on top (carb, EFI, etc) and the oil pan you plan to use. You might not clear the hood, unless you sit it right down (or run a cowl hood) and you might not clear the oil pan. -Cooling. The V8 needs more radiator, no way around it. Guys have used 4.0L rads with SBCs, but I think they're asking for trouble if they really drive it. The avaliable space for a larger rad is not so avaliable. I've seen a WJ steering box used to allow for a taller rad that sits between the frame rails. I would probably go that route, as I think a 'standard' sized rad will then fit. -Clearance for accessories. Jeepcomj had to do some hacking to make his 3.8 with A/C fit, which I don't think he would do over again. Lots of truck engines will mount the accessories all over the damn place because they had plenty of room in the factory install. And on some V8s you might find the starter is in a bad place. Anything else? Well, not that I know. I know a bit more for a SBC swap. They've been done and documented. I think there is a 318 swap or two on NAXJA. Personally, I don't consider a V8 swap to be ideal for MOST usage of THESE trucks. A V8 is fine in my 76 K25, I can carry over 160L of fuel, and it is a full size/heavy truck. I think a smaller (better) V6 is more ideal for a MJ simply to keep things light, keep the fuel consumption to a reasonable level, and leave enough space under the hood to keep things easy. If its a hardcore wheeler, I could see throwing an aluminum V8 in. Hardcore mudder, sure, whatever V8 you want (mud trucks don't need to be fancy, that'd be a real waste). Track? V8, you could work with whatever but again aluminum would be best. DD? I6 (4.0) or V6 (3.8 or similar, shortstars are kinda cool too).

There is no other filters, but there is a pump. I don't think it'll blow through that. I wanted to change all the lines, but I need some time to do that. And as it is, I think I will wreck the lines if I try to undo them from the pump. I might just throw it back together and get it running for now. I'm half tempted to rebuilt the quadrajet, since it would appear that it had water sitting in the float bowl. I would assume this will cause problems down the road. The POR setup looks good. Might go that route...

On an older, mid 70s GM with saddle tanks, but hey, it would still apply if it happened to a MJ... It quit. Pulled the fuel filter, rust, water, a little gas... So, dropped the tanks. The right tank was half full of water, and about 1/8 of gasoline, and a bunch of skuzz and $#!&. The tank was new (about 6 months), and has started to develope some rust on the inside... The other tank had some water, but not much (enough that it was picking it up intermittantly). Anyways, so I dropped both tanks and emptied them as much as possible. They still aren't as clean as I'd like. Short of trying to snake my arm in there to wipe them, is there a good option for cleaning? Are any of the avaliable gas tank coatings worthwhile? For the rest of the fuel system, I put some clean fuel in a cup and put the pickup hoses in it, then cranked the motor over (mechanical pump) with the fuel line off the carb until I got clean fuel out. Anything else I should do? The filter is on the inlet of the quadrajunk, and I don't know how much $#!& got through it to the inards of the carb. Short of a rebuild, is there anything else that should or could be done? Or just let it be? Ugh.

'Needs more triangulation'. There's a reason why that was a popular phrase on pirate for a long time. Lots of people build things that aren't going to do much of anything in a roll over.

It's the same on a 4.oh, really. The plug for it comes off the injector harness near the back of the head, and it runs straight down and over a bitsy to the driver's side top of the bellhousing. I had a melted one. It didn't melt through though. Another one the wires broke. I'm not sure WHAT I did that caused that. Since the driveline shouldn't move around enough for it to get cut or pulled apart. Ohwell.

My grandfather was. But I didn't really understand who, or what, the masons were until after he had passed away. Not that I fully understand, because I guess you have to be there for that.