DirtyComanche

A 'blend door' blends ambient (outside) air with air that has passed through the heater core (or evaporator core). If it is stuck open, it will be cold. No way around it. If you get 190* on the rad hose and heater hoses, that is okay. If you get 70* on the lower rad hose, also okay. My reasoning is, with a 195* stat that is accurate to a couple percentages, and given rubber is a decent insulator, 190* should be fine for the hot side. Since the lower (cold) hose is quite cold in comparison with the upper (70*, of course I have no idea what your ambient temp is), this is also a good sign as it means not TOO much coolant is passing through the rad or you would see a much smaller spread between the temps. Also, 190* on the heater core hoses verifys that the heater core is hot.

No, they should survive... It's just an open diff, basically... Or so I believe. The FSM doesn't really spell out the operation of the unit, but 'full differential' means open diff to me. And looking at the diagrams, I can only reason it operates as one. But, I've never done the touchy-feely thing where I pulled one apart to see how everything moves. I only ever had on NP242, and it never broke so I didn't touch it.

Yeah, I'd like one of those if I could easily get one...

I read a book about that, called 'Influence, Science and Practice' By Dr Robert D Caldini (think I got that all right) and would recommend it if you're interested in the subject. He spelled out the phenomenon fairly well, and why people think that way. Mostly I read the book because its great for dealing with salesmen.

Some people just don't have a clue... Honestly... That's when you offer to put the car back where it was. :nuts: I look at everything on a risk basis. If it's not going to cause me any harm, or burn up excessive amounts of time, I'll give a hand where I can. I haven't pulled anyone out of the ditch this year, but that's mostly because I haven't run into anyone I could actually recover. They all either screwed up bad enough that they needed a wrecker anyways, or had already left. What annoyed me (more after the fact, than at the time) was on my last trip south, I wound up witnessing a fatal accident. I was only about 800 yards back when a girl attempting to pass a line of traffic and wound up head-on-ing a guy coming the other way. Just an all around $#!&ty situation. The people she was trying to pass (there was a passing lane, FWIW) just kept going. I was thinking about it later, and she was easily far enough along side the one vehicle that they could obviously see her lose control and hit the other guy... None of them stopped. I was there for about 5 minutes before anybody came along the other way - luckily they stopped (2 people in one vehicle). Soon after a bunch of people came from the direction I was heading, and I don't think any of them stopped... And it was an obviously BAD accident scene, and it was obvious that 3 people were not enough to deal with it.

I have a diagram that shows where they are... But it is easier for me to jsut explain it. There's 4 near the front (cab area), 2 on each side. Look on top of the frame there, you will see the bed mount structure above the frame. Then there's two through the big X-member near the back (behind the axle), more towards the centre of the bed. Then there is two more at the very end of the frame, near where the bumper bolts on. Very easy.

If it uses solid joints (heims) on the linkage, any driveline vibration will be transmitted through it.

Yikes... As I sit here eating my double chocolate muffin (okay, it's really more like a giant cupcake) for lunch. Best of luck bud, I'm sure you'll pull through it all.

You know the funny thing about that... I have NEVER heard anyone use that term, save a few instances on the intraweb. I had no idea what it ment, at all. :nuts: And to me, 'cajun' is a type of tater-tot.

Well, it's a 4spd auto (47RH) out of a 94... It's definatly 23 spline. I counted twice, and confirmed it... I had thought they might have changed the pressure angles on the splines eventually. If you say it was in 97, that will save me... But I should look into it.

Diesels are a lot of fun in the cold... Anyways, I have a few ideas. The worst would be it was started cold previously, and now has spun bearings. With my dodge, and most diesels (especially with glow plugs), you can get them to 'light off' with very minimal pre-heating, just it takes about 2 minutes before you'll have any oil pressure. The result can be lots of spun bearings. And often it will just show up as too slow of crank to start, or no crank at all. Buddy of mine is a HD... When we had the last cold snap he was changing engines like crazy from people starting them without enough preheating. Most of the customers would phone up saying they though the starter was bad, or it cranked super slow... Otherwise, I'd say stupid electrical issue (ground?), or it is just too cold. Fuel gelling shouldn't be your issue - the slow crank is. And honestly, you guys must get crappy fuel for it to gel bad at that temperature.

Cool, SD33T swap.

Thanks for the links... For $55 US, I can't really say no... Novak wants more than twice that. Either way, we'll see if I need it.

The plan if I kept the 231, which I didn't want to do, was to redrill the AW4 to clock the case flatterish. It can be done. But, the input for the 241 is too long. The clocking ring is money... So the first plan would be to see if I can viably shorten the 241 input, or swap the 231 23-spliner I have. I kicked around the idea of a box4rocks, or madrooster, or whatever... I don't know if I can make it fit well, and if I actually want one. I'm going to try this driveline in my XJ first, and the rear axle is staying in the mostly stock location I'm more opposed to buying one because they cost money, and I question the strength of a 241 behind one. Yes, the 241 came stock behind a cummins... That doesn't mean they don't break them. At the same time, it's not like this setup should be much weaker than an upgraded D300.

So, assumably I could figure this out myself, but I haven't got that far yet, and I figured it had been a while since I had made a thread of any sort. Anyways, the tcase in my dodge broke. It was, and still is, really inconvenient. However, I now have a 'spare' wrecked NP241D. It's from behind an auto and a cummins, I can't confirm it but it might actually be more like a '241HD' rather than just a 'D'. I need to take it apart and asses the damage, but if I only broke the shift collar I would probably get a new one and not return the tcase for the $250 core value. Oh, it's driver's drop, later dodges were. So, now, can I bolt it up to my 23 spline AW4? I know, as-is, I can't. The input on the NP241D is a 23 spline variant, if I counted correctly, but I am unsure if the pressure angle is the same as on an AW4 (I would assume so). It is probably too long, as a dodge 47RH output shaft is flush with the aft face of the tranny, and an AW4 protrudes about 3/4" (by memory). Novak offers an adapater (I think) that will allow a guy to bolt the two together (but it's not stated to do what I want, it's for something else). It is basically a round spacer, about 1" thick, and it offers provisions for clocking. Alternatively, I think I could cut the input on the NP241 down on the lathe, since the end result would basically be the same. Or, I am starting to guess, the input from my junker 23 spline NP231 could be swapped on without any hassle. Now, the other problem... I have a NP231 HD SYE. Yay. I won't be running a NP231 again, and selling a used SYE is pennies on the dollar. Anyways, a 231 HD SYE is basically a NP241 mainshaft that has been cut down and tapped, and a new tail-housing. Or at least the first HD SYEs were made this way - but I can't confirm if they modded anything else on the shaft. This leads me to think there is a chance that I can put the 231 HD mainshaft in the 241 case. I might be totally wrong - I do not have a 231 here to check with. Visually, the 241 chain-case looks to be wider, assumably to accomodate the wider chain. Again, I don't have a 231 to compare. This I think would be the only potential problem, unless I've missed something else. If the chaincase is considerably wider, the 231 HD mainshaft might be too short. So, why am I trying this? Well, the NP241D (or the one I have at least) has a 32 spline front output, along with the same for a rear output. I have the front flange to put a 1350 CV on the front of it already. I could buy one for the rear for a reasonable price. The tcase seems to make economical sense - if it will work. Wider chain, 6-pinion planetaries, HD outputs, apparently stronger casing, and it only weighs about 85lbs or so. I broke a 231 front output before, and hadn't come up with a decent option, save blowing tons of money on an upgraded D300 or buying a stak or atlas (money money). The other problem with all these cases is they shorten the front driveshaft, which isn't really ideal in an XJ/MJ platform. It seems like it should only cost me a rear flange for a 1350 CV, and perhaps the spacer and perhaps a NP241 SYE kit (if nothing else). So, thoughts? No, I wrote too much, nobody is going to read it... I should just do my own research.

With the tires closer to full lock, you should have less steering feedback and bind with the CV shafts. Will it be enough to notice? I dunno, I'd heard that you could. And apparently the CVs are stronger than a 260X. But a 260X ain't very strong.

But who wants to buy a sick dog?

Raise hell. I would NOT take kindly to that. There is too many whack-jobs in this world for me to feel comfortable with that.

Are you intending to run the 42s? :nuts:

Shocks. Maybe limit straps.

Oldie but a goodie...

Uh, if I read his post correct, he already bought a chewy to DD. So, give'r on the truggy project. Might as well.

I tried that route with a local place. Well, 3. They told me they can't, and that it couldn't be done. It seemed retarded to me. However, I know a guy who does glass professionally. I asked him and it was 'Well, bring it by and I'll cut one and install it for a case of lucky'. At that point I'd managed to find one from a wrecker and have it installed, but I figured it was good to know for future reference. It's amazing how useless some people can be, and how helpful others can.

I think in a couple of days if she typed 'pink jeep truck' in google, she'd find this... The bot is checking us out.

The chirping and squaking will go away once you get moving fast enough. Oh, and nobody even dare running one in the front without, at least, hydro assist.