DirtyComanche

I find that just entirely bizarre. I don't think there is any area of Canada (currently) where the religiously affiliated whack-jobs managed to prevent the sale of alcohol or other 'sins'. There's dry towns, but that's for an entirely different reason, normally having to do with (uh-oh, stereotyping) the native population being unable to handle a little booze. There's also towns where you can't buy booze in a glass bottle; something to do with too many people being stabbed with broken bottles. My stereotyping applies there too... Religions though, they have little clout. Other than the Sikhs can wear a kirpan in schools, and a few other little 'problems' that have popped up. Now, about the program in question... Is not the stated underlying purpose to get people to buy newer, more fuel efficient and emissions friendly vehicles? And would not perhaps the other purpose be to stimulate a little economic action as cash NEEDS to flow for the economy to work at all? And might there not be a little vested interest as your government (and unfortunately mine) happens to have bought into a few of the auto manufacturers, which would be at this point a positive thing as if those said companies fail again it will be on your dime? Obviously there is bad with the good, but ought you not accept that it must be and make the best of the good? I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that lenders aren't going to give people loans for vehicles when they have no or terrible credit, but I could be wrong. And also I'd say there's probably going to be a lot more $#!&-boxes removed from existence than perfectly good used vehicles. Again, I could be wrong. Of course, I imagine at least some of you don't believe in global warming. I'd like a reasonable explanation on that, as I have trouble understanding what part of that you don't believe? (If that seems out of left field, well, I read chit-chat on pirate)

You Americans are so divided.

Did you use a YJ/TJ transmission? They're clocked a little different. Anyways, some of the casting on the top is totally useless. There's some funny shaped stuff that's just kinda 'there'. I'd have no issue grinding that off. Don't take off any material that is around the bolt holes though. A better option might just be to take a piece of 2x4 (drift) and a sledge hammer; pound a little clearance into the area that rubs. The wood will prevent there from being sharp dents, especially if you radius it nicely before hand. The metal will stretch quite a bit.

It still comes on in 5th... At least mine did.

What did you take the paint off with? Big scotchbrite wheel?

Looks like it should work. I'll try it when I get back home. Whenever that is. Hopefully I can find a furd NP205.

One of the base staff in Ft St John had always said "We're on farmer's time, the animals don't care what time it is, they need to be fed". They don't observe DST. Of course, only 30kms down the road and you're in Alberta, where WAY more cattle are raised, and they observe DST.

Do the JK Rubicons use a 4:1 231? I'm pretty sure the TJ Rubicon used the 241, but I don't have as much experience with the JK Rubicon. It's a 241J, aka NV241OR. Same case. I knew what Pete meant.

The front probably has to be flipped, or passenger drop. I guess you don't need a clocking ring on the front to flip it. It's hard to say how anything will fit without having any of the components on hand. Either way, the 4:1 atlas is much slicker than the other setups. :dunno: But I will feel for a passenger drop 241D (or such) and a usable ford 205 for now. If I can flip my driver's 241D without things getting too weird, that might be the best option. I'll throw the case front onto the tranny and see whenever I get back home.

Nah, I'd posted in tech by accident. I guess that's what happens when you drive for too long in parts of the world where the road is entirely straight. More or less I'm wondering why this entire country (and it applies to my neighbours to the south) couldn't agree on having DST. Part of northern BC ignores it, along with Saskatchewan, but oddly Alberta has no problem with it... I don't recall if Manitoba does or not, I guess I'll find out whenever I get there. This leads to randomly resetting my clock and wondering why all the restaurants are open/closed when they 'shouldn't' be.

That's pretty much out of the question. The economy blows, so I'm very unwilling to put that much money into it at this point. Also, the 4-speed upgrade for the atlas is actually cheaper than sticking the box4rocks in front of it, I think, or at the very lead it works better (clocking makes way more sense, and there is less clearance problems). I'm thinking I will try to wrangle up some parts. We'll see how well that goes first...

Alright, a real mobile home. You can go on a hippy adventure. Whatever it is that they do. I don't know any hippies. They disagree with my way of life.

So, congratulations to me, I finally figured out that it is actually 10:30 here. Not 11:30 as I would have suspected earlier. Things are making way more sense now. Edit, now if only I could figure out what forum this sort of stuff should go in...

I imagine the donor is the one that's trashed. My answer is simple. Use wood. Lots of wood. Like they do in the shipyards. Let it all crush until it's happy. It won't go anywhere then.

I don't have too many worries about the length of my front shaft. I think as I had left it my front axle is at least 4" forward over stock, and it will have minimal static angles due to the height of the rig. The main issue with it actually might be if it clears the LCA backets on the frame. If anything, having it shorter with a tcase that keeps it tighter to the transmission might be better. Other than that might result in some interesting compound angles, not the end of the world for a front shaft. It's all rather academic without parts to see what fits best.

I shy away from the 203/205 setup because it isn't low enough, or so I think, again I should do some math. They're both 2:1. The 3:1 gears for the 205 are quite expensive (since they come with a new case), and I'm not sure if the 203 gears are still available. I'll say it again, I'm a little strapped for cash, as I have to budget at least $3K for rims/tires :ack: Also, I wanted to maintain the street manners of this... Somewhat. SM465s are great. I just hate shifting them. Also, a lack of overdrive is a bit disconcerting. The alternative is to leave my rather high ratio gears in the axles (I have a set of 4.10s that are okay enough to run), and say screw the OD. That might work, other than it will leave some fairly wicked gear splits. I'd probably have to, again, do some math before I figured if that was a good idea. Cheap, yes, but I don't know about adapters. Or how well it will fit, but I don't recall it as being a terribly large trans (mainly height is the issue, not that I can't work around anything). I wonder what the combined weight of a SM465/203/205 setup is... Also, I think an AX-15 shouldn't ever fail behind a 4.0L if it good shape, and some level of common sense is used while driving. I could be wrong. I may look into the costs associated with a rebuild, since mine probably isn't 'in good shape' :rotf: .

Bad bang for the buck, at least around here. I haven't been able to get a price on one even. I'm figuring it would probably be $1200 min. Beyond that, it seems a little funky to me, needs flange conversions (I think), and can't be twin-sticked. Which isn't a requirement, but if you're going to spend the money... Also, I'm not sure on the 4:1 doing what I want, totally. I'd have to bother to do a little math, but I think I'd like a lower low, and a mid-range gear.

If I'm reading it right, it isn't worth it. Wrong drop, wrong input, flanges have to be changed, and it's only 3:1. If I was going to be happy with that, 2.72:1 would be close enough. I passed up another one for $2K that was 3:1. I'd still have to run a doubler in front of it, IMHO. There's also a stak 3-speed mini for sale in Calgary, same deal, totally unused (in shipping crate). Too much money for now... Same goes for spending $2k on an atlas, really. Oh, BTW, I was in Calgary for most of the weekend. Went to pick up some parts (work related) and wound up sitting around due to shipping related issues. Now I'm in beautiful La Ronge, Saskatchewan, hoping that the locals don't steal my truck.

I'd skip the small lift. Put the 31s on and trim as needed (the right rims and they'll fit without). When the money permits, SOA and do a 5"~ lift in the front. No sense buying a set of rear springs, front springs, LCAs, etc, just to turn around and either toss 'em or sell them for cheap in short order.

You could do the bed sides in a similar enough way. But you have a point, I don't think of a MJ having a bed on it... Mine hasn't had one in ages.

If I was doing it on a rusty MJ... I'd do it how I did it on my XJ. Go nice and high, even with the old door sill. This allows the removal of a ton of metal - it solved almost all of my rust issues. What is left isn't bad enough to warrant any replacement of sheetmetal. The MJ/XJ are basically the same in the area in question, just the corner will come out a little different. I can picture it in my head, it will be obvious when you get there. Tying it in will be obviously different than how mine had came out. I had a plan, I just never wound up using it!

Figured I'd post in tech too because I'd like more opinions... My XJ has 1-tons, 37s (planned), double beadlocks (planned), a 4.0L (as long as I stick with it), probably going to go AX-15, and will weigh some serious numbers... Oh, and I consider component failure to be basically unacceptable. So... I'm pretty undecided on my transfercase... I was just going to run the NP241DLD and call it good. Strength wouldn't be an issue, and I located a flange to do a hack'n'tap style SYE on the rear for cheap. The only issue is I really don't like the 2.72:1 low. I had figured I could fight it with the AW4, just run a big trans cooler. Right now I'm leaning away from the AW4 and keeping the AX-15... There is no way I will live with the AX-15/NP241 setup unless I run something silly like 7.17s in the axles (which I won't do for other reasons). This requires a doubler, or something else. My first instinct was I probably could run the box4rocks 231 doubler with the 241 behind it. Strength wise, I don't think I'd have any real issues. Driveshafts would be a different matter. The front would be grossly too long. This would require a 2-piece shaft with a carrier/hanger/midship bearing. Given that I'm unwilling to run 1310 ujoints, this leaves me with a sneaking suspicion that I'd have a very costly front driveshaft as I don't think the junkyard would yield many usable parts. From there I figured 'A D300 as the second case would be easy! :brows: ' As I looked into that, I started to get :( Both outputs on a D300 are 27 spline - unacceptable stock NP231 junk basically. So, they'd have to be changed. After that the common failure point appears to be the gears, and they like to go badly when they do. The option is to run the lowmax 4:1 gears, which are pricey. And then I started looking at case failures... Stak makes a better case, but you might as well have bought a real stak at that point. My conclusion is that the D300 was engineered to be a damn fine 1/4 - ton tcase, and that's it. My likely final weight is simply going to be too much for it to jive with my requirements for reliability. So, I could buy a stak or an atlas. Maybe by christmas time I'll have saved up enough 'fun money' for that. Probably not. The last option I could think of is the one I've always written off. The bloody old NP205. Basically indestructible, at least that I can tell. I will have to look into the failure points of them, but I'm certain they've all happened behind big blocks and been in 8000lb trucks. I could either run the NP231 box4rocks into it, or a NP241 box4rocks... I'm leaning towards the 241. I think I should track down a passenger drop case for that (earlier dodge, maybe some others?) as there might be interference potential with the front output on the NP205 otherwise. As I gather, it would probably make the most sense (and be the strongest) to track down a short chevy 32-spline NP205 input gear so I could use a 32 spline output on the doubler. I'd install this in a ford NP205 with the round pattern as they have 32 spline front outputs, and 32 spline rear without a slip yoke (haven't checked that for sure). A major issue is the one shift rail won't work; the case has to be drilled for it to come out of the back. Beyond that I can grind them to be twinstick. Also, it weighs a lot, so I absolutely need an extra mount on it, which will require some more research. My last concern is sizing of the NP205 and how well it will fit (seat interference might be the problem, my floor certainly isn't). I'd have a 5.33:1 with the 241/205 setup. I would like input as to of the technical accuracy of what I've said, and what people think beyond that. Is there other options I've missed? Etcetera...

See how screwed the internals are before buying a rebuild kit. It might need more than that. In which case a new (used) low mileage case can be a better deal. You also might want a chain if yours is sloppy. I'd look around and compare kit contents before I bought one. You also might need a special bearing puller to get the one front output bearing out as it is installed blind. The FSM has a number for the tool, but I'd sure Jeep would want eleventybillion dollars for it. Maybe somebody knows a good trick.

So... I'm pretty undecided on my transfercase... I was just going to run the NP241DLD and call it good. Strength wouldn't be an issue, and I located a flange to do a hack'n'tap style SYE on the rear for cheap. The only issue is I really don't like the 2.72:1 low. I had figured I could fight it with the AW4, just run a big trans cooler. Right now I'm leaning away from the AW4 and keeping the AX-15... There is no way I will live with the AX-15/NP241 setup unless I run something silly like 7.17s in the axles (which I won't do for other reasons). This requires a doubler, or something else. My first instinct was I probably could run the box4rocks 231 doubler with the 241 behind it. Strength wise, I don't think I'd have any real issues. Driveshafts would be a different matter. The front would be grossly too long. This would require a 2-piece shaft with a carrier/hanger/midship bearing. Given that I'm unwilling to run 1310 ujoints, this leaves me with a sneaking suspicion that I'd have a very costly front driveshaft as I don't think the junkyard would yield many usable parts. From there I figured 'A D300 as the second case would be easy! :brows: ' As I looked into that, I started to get :( Both outputs on a D300 are 27 spline - unacceptable stock NP231 junk basically. So, they'd have to be changed. After that the common failure point appears to be the gears, and they like to go badly when they do. The option is to run the lowmax 4:1 gears, which are pricey. And then I started looking at case failures... Stak makes a better case, but you might as well have bought a real stak at that point. My conclusion is that the D300 was engineered to be a damn fine 1/4 - ton tcase, and that's it. My likely final weight is simply going to be too much for it to jive with my requirements for reliability. So, I could buy a stak or an atlas. Maybe by christmas time I'll have saved up enough 'fun money' for that. Probably not. The last option I could think of is the one I've always written off. The bloody old NP205. Basically indestructible, at least that I can tell. I will have to look into the failure points of them, but I'm certain they've all happened behind big blocks and been in 8000lb trucks. I could either run the NP231 box4rocks into it, or a NP241 box4rocks... I'm leaning towards the 241. I think I should track down a passenger drop case for that (earlier dodge, maybe some others?) as there might be interference potential with the front output on the NP205 otherwise. As I gather, it would probably make the most sense (and be the strongest) to track down a short chevy 32-spline NP205 input gear so I could use a 32 spline output on the doubler. I'd install this in a ford NP205 with the round pattern as they have 32 spline front outputs, and 32 spline rear without a slip yoke (haven't checked that for sure). A major issue is the one shift rail won't work; the case has to be drilled for it to come out of the back. Beyond that I can grind them to be twinstick. Also, it weighs a lot, so I absolutely need an extra mount on it, which will require some more research. My last concern is sizing of the NP205 and how well it will fit (seat interference might be the problem, my floor certainly isn't). I'd have a 5.33:1 with the 241/205 setup. Thoughts?

Bad idea. An 8.8 isn't good for 39s, IMHO. A hybrid that uses D30 or D44 parts won't be either. Buy a D60. A HP ford one works great. The 'desirable' 78-79 ones (or whatever they are) are not desirable for use in a MJ/XJ, don't pay extra for one. Narrow if desired. Or, for about $399 you can get a bare 9" housing. Cut to length (they will do it for you), press on some Cs, add a third member, knuckles, shafts, etc. Do whatever. A HP third is a good idea, but mucho $$$.