DirtyComanche

You do realize that both of those links are for universal tachometers that use a magnetic pickup (the reference to "Hall sensor") rather than picking up a signal from the ignition system ... right? It means you would have to mount some kind of bracket, probably near the crank pulley/vibration damper, for the sensor to "read" the rotational speed of the engine. Hijacking. Is there decent analog display tachs like this?

Redacted.

Ordered some u-bolt eliminators from TMR: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139&products_id=1979 And I ordered a single tie rod taper insert. I'm going to flip the tie rod, otherwise I think I plan to leave the steering alone for now. Still just amassing parts. I'm just throwing things for this in with other orders. Still hunting for traction devices too.

I don't know if their is still a turbo kit for that engine in production. They actually respond pretty well to a turbo. There's also about a billion of those that are HMMWV takeouts like that one kicking around, so they're pretty cheap, grab a spare and if something goes wrong plunk it in. I can't say if I would do the swap or not, but I wouldn't consider it without a turbo.

Most long arm kits are like that. It can be a pain but there is workarounds.

Find one that the owner cared, and that won't be a problem. But yeah, my 88 has a rotten firewall in that area from the clutch leaking on it. Luckily I do not believe it has the same harness in it as it did then, but who knows.

Well, I'm guessing that was a 4bt until somebody stole the turbo. Honestly, it's worth $500~ tops. It's a core unless you can run it and verify it is good, which ain't happening without injectors. That one looks like it was used for some bojang generator or water pump application, and guess what, people don't throw that stuff out unless it is garbage. To part it out it might be worth something, providing the IP is good, and the starter, and the other accessories, but meh. I'd offer them $100, if they didn't take it I'd be happy I didn't have another POS clogging up my life.

I'm hoping somebody posts pics. I've got two sets of doors I would like to do this with.

Figure out what you want the truck to do first, and then what you want to do for tires and lift, and then figure out what axles. There's lots of options, but in general it winds up getting expensive. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you have, or hit up the search function and read through the builds in the projects section, it's way better to ask now than to buy parts and spend time swapping them in and find out they're inappropriate.

What primer is that? Looks similar in colour to the 88 I have that's painted with Krylon.

How much lift do you want? Do you want it to drive decent, or just be taller? There's about a million options, lots of them aren't a good idea.

More info on your plans? Lift, tire size, wheeling type, etc, etc? IIRC, that Waggy rear axle is about 58.5-59" wide, they're a little narrower than the rear you have, not sure if it's a problem for you or not, but it can be. It's also a bit offset, which is not normally an issue. The front is low pinion, which can be a bit of a bummer for driveshaft angles and getting enough caster for it to drive nice. The D44 fronts also use rather weak outer shafts, there is upgrade options there, but it's pay to play. $500/each seems expensive. I can get a Ford D60 and 10.25/10.5 rear for about $1000 total, as in, the same price. If these axles are in 'as pulled' condition from a vehicle that was driven to death, expect to spend a bunch of money replacing worn out parts. Also, they probably have a fairly ugly gear ratio in them (3.07 is typical), so plan on regearing.

True. Heater controls should still work too, there's a check valve in the vacuum reservoir.

2009 wasn't that long ago... Just saying. I expect things to last.

I might have missed it, what year half ton Chevy did your front brake hoses come off of?

Point #1. Hydroboost. IMHO it's almost always the answer. I didn't do it on the rig I'm building right now because I would be into it for more time than I wanted (would have to tear down the booster and port it, long story why I would need to do that, normally you wouldn't, it would consumer a lot of time), but it provides spectacular braking with tight packaging and runs off the P/S pump. Plus the boosters basically don't go bad, worst case they're a seal kit away from being good again (but that is very time consuming), so junkyard units can be had cheap and tend to work fine. I don't know what to tell you for an application, but American fullsize trucks/vans in the 3/4 ton and larger style often have them. The only other vacuum you need is for HVAC controls, which can possibly be worked around, and perhaps 4wd actuation if you have a CAD and are 4wd. #3. You can ditch the EGR. IIRC, a 3/8 NPT tap will thread the passage in the intake manifold perfectly, just stick a pipe plug in it. You can run these engine without a PCV, just put a vent filter in place of the rear hose and leave the front one running to the pre-filter side of the intake. Make sure all your seals are in good shape if you do this. There probably is a better solution though as many boosted cars use some sort of a PCV system still. The charcoal canister can be vented overboard, or you can just leave it vented into the pre-filter side.

I've always made my own. And I weld them on. Which isn't necessarily the route many people want to go. But there's no difference between an XJ and a MJ in that area, so any of the aftermarket braces will fit. I build my own because I dislike the tolerances on the holes on the aftermarket ones. They make them so they will fit, so the holes are large. If you look at the holes in the uniframe in that area, you'll see they're quite large too, for the same reason, the factory had sloppy tolerances so they wanted to make sure it would fit. I want it to be so the bolt just barely slides through the hole and lines up perfectly with the box. Plus on the latest thing I'm building the outer brace is integrated into the track bar mount and some other stuff, so it really had to be a custom jobby from that standpoint anyways.

The manufacturing processes and heat treatment are not necessarily the same, nor the quality of the base stock of metal, so no, they are not necessarily as good. If you get the heat treatment wrong (overhard to brittle) they may break with only 1/4 throttle on gravel, or if it's wrong the other way (soft) they will plastically deform after only a few hard hits and stop running true (and then either stretch out more and breaking, or loosening the ears so much the U-joint falls out and breaks them off, or take your carrier bearings out, or the splines in the carrier, or even the wheel bearings). However, those ones you quoted are Yukon seconds or blems, and aren't considered so for reasons that affect function. Or so I am told. I have bought USA Standard Gear stuff in the past. They are supposed to be decent. It's pretty hard to break a quality set of chromo shafts in a D30 without breaking something else in it.

Ouch. That's no good. How long is recovery supposed to be after removal?

The will fit the same as on an XJ.

Alright guys, enough talk, go try it and let me know how it goes. I'm curious, often things taken as gospel as impossible can be done.

:waving: There a lot like a Cherokee. Look for rust on the body, the uniframe, and the floors. Make sure there's no cracking around the steering box, leaf hangers, door hinges, etc. The 4.0L is IMHO the best engine, followed by the 2.5L, and then followed by planning to do an engine swap. AW4 auto from behind the 4.0L is pretty darn reliable, the 5spd until mid-89 is not, after that it is (AX-15). Look for general wear and tear, bojang repairs, things like a brake or clutch master eating the firewall, etc, and you can't really go too wrong. Just be wary of missing Comanche specific parts, you might pay a lot for them... Lots more posts on this if you search around in tech too. :cheers:

Interesting little trailer. You definitely neither need nor want a DRW truck to tow that though. It "should" be fairly easy to install a universal 5th wheel hitch though.

Don't do the job of a 1-ton truck with a 1/4-ton truck.

Are they going to price/package this like the Eco-diesel Ram? Probably... Argh. I DON'T WANT POWER EVERYTHING! Stripper model with lockers and a diesel, that's what I want...