jeepthing07

in 1994 jeep started useing 297X joints on ABS models, non abs had the 260X. Not a big deal but you might be downgradeing in u-joint size if it has ABS

I would get rid of the inverted Y steering, HD or not it still sucks

When I swapped in a NV4500 into my YJ I had the flywheel resurfaced and put in a centerforce clutch and it never has worked right. Then I read about the flywheel being dished slightly from the factory. I have been driving it for years but it sucks and I don’t feel like dropping that 200 pound trany again to fix it. I would advise people NOT to resurface the flywheel buy a new one!

1988-2006 Chevy drop shackles like this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lowering ... enameZWDVW Them are the light duty ones though and someone had them fold oversideways. I lucked out and found some Con-ferr HD 1.5" drop shackles on ebay for $20. But i had to sand down the frame bushings because they were a little to wide for the hanger. And i had to stick 2 washers in the spring end cause it was a little wide. I don't think any of them will just "bolt on" but its easy to make them fit. Image Not Found

Could be the back of the valve cover too

Spicer don't make the 297's anymore they upgraded to HD forged 760's The rough looking one is a cast 297 and the smooth looking one is a 760. http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/760/

I did the same thing on my 89 and thought i broke it but after messing with it I slid it back into place and it worked fine and wasent broken afterall. Why wouldent the cluster work? I thought they were all basicly the same. I swaped in a gauge cluster for my idiot light cluster from the same year Cherokee and it had about a 1 foot long extension cable on the back and my comanche dident.

People actually want these plates?? They hang to low so i welded shock mounts to my axle tubes. I think i still have the plates if anyone wants them.

Thats a AMC 20 rear

Pic of my stuck YJ once i get the MJ finnished i will go get it stuck and take some pix lul Image Not Found

just 2 holes on the ends for the studs this is a pic of my orignal manifold and my Doug Thorley header

Thats the way all of them are made not just the ebay one

only holes on the ends its pretty much clamped in place :rotfl2:

I did my own gears without any experience and they turned out fine but you do have to set them up right and have the tools and an idea of what you’re doing. The tools I used were a dead blow hammer (5 pound or better)$40. Beam type inch pound torque wrench for setting pinion bearing preload $80. Dial indicator and stand, a cheap one will work $30. 12 ton shop press I already had for pressing on bearings. I didn’t need to pull carrier bearings because there was a carrier break between my gears and I bought new ones. If reusing your old carriers you will have to buy a bearing splitter to press them off it’s about $60. I don’t know what axles you have but the axles I swapped gears on was an YJ HP Dana 30 and 35. The 35 was really easy to set backlash on because the shims were on the outside of the bearing so I didn’t have to pull bearings off the change shims. But on the D30 the shims were under the bearings so I had to make mock up bearings for the front. That was another $30 for a set of bearings. I honed them out with a wheel cylinder hone and it took a LONG time but it worked. The D35 used a crush sleeve for bearing preload and it took a hell of allot to crush it! You have to make or buy a tool to hold the pinion while you tighten the pinion nut. The front used shims for preload so it was easier.

I would avoid putting any auto behing a 2.5 if you want what little power the 2.5 makes.

I think the slotted CPS is just oblong holes so you can adjust the clearance between the sensor and the flywheel. if you don't have one file the holes out. They probably give a clearance for it if i can find my 89 chiltons manual i will look it up. I also remember hearing about a sensor that is known to go out if it gets wet on the Renix 4.0's i think it was on http://www.allpar.com Edit: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/40.html Bob Sheaves wrote: The 4.0L was a strong performing engine, no doubt. There were a couple of issues with the basic design, including leaks; the oil pump was notorious for wearing out at around 145,000 to 155,000 miles, and the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the 1989/1990 models would fail if someone spit on the sidewalk. might as well check the voltage on the TPS wouldent hurt...

lmao i have seen this on ebay the trailer park model poseing is good for some LULZ. Looks well made and its cheap i would buy it

I'm with you bruh, nuthin drops the value of a truck to me more than the 'ol blue oval. :cheers: Followed closely by the blue bowtie

This is pretty funny check it out http://www.tacticalunderground.us/forum ... php?t=3784

Cool i will have to keep an eye on ebay for them. I liked the comanches design cause you can kinda fold them against the door somewhat. the only universals i have seen mount to the door with 3 legs so you can't fold them in and they look to big

test

I love the mirrors that bolt to the doors i want to put something like it on my MJ. Only mirrors i can find look like they belong on a fullsize. I know finding comanche mirrors will be hard did s10,ranger,toyota stuff come with a universal type factory mirrors?

I'm not a GM fan but anythings better than a 2.8. Why not just get a 3.4 from a camaro? You could probably get one for next to nothing. I personaly wouldent waste time on a 4.3 swap, just go 4.0

If it uses 3 bolts to bolt it to the frame there is a good chance it will work. the YJ box used 4 bolts but i think the TJ used 3.

The only jeeps to have the Iron Duke were the last of the CJ's it was a 151CI with the intake manifold on the passenger side. XJ/MJ's only came with the AMC 150CI 4 cyl. Carbureted, Throttle Body Injected, and Multi-Point Fuel Injected.