jeepthing07

X2... Aluminum MPFI cover

lawlz.... thats mean

this is why i don't read 4x4 mags anymore

I have allways seen 4.0 cams were the same form 87-95 then it changed 96-06 :dunno: www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm

I swaped a 89 renix block into a 97 and used the 97's head. When i went to put the new intake/exhaust gasket on that i bought as a set from the dealer the exhaust ports lined up fine but when i looked at the intake the holes in the gasket were way to low and shaped slightly differently. The HO head has higher ports for better airflow. the exhaust manifold will bolt on but the collecter is further back than a HO manifold. A renix intake on a HO head would sit probably 3/8" lower and the ports wouldent be aligned but as long as the gasket sealed up on it i guess it would run. I sure wouldent do it

The head and exhaust manifold is different, fuel injection is different. The block is the same but its supposed to be stronger than the HO block. Renix has a knock sensor and the temp sensor screwed into the side of the block. The end of the crank on the HO crank is machined out deeper on the HO's.. so HO's with a manual trans use a spacer in the crank that the pilot bearing is pressed into. i think thats about it

WOW! to bad i allready bought used ones. You should be able to sell them easy!

you can stick 1/4" bolts (ones with a long sholder and cut off the threads) in place of the pins they fit perfect. its what i used when i did my removeable door's

dodge dakotas were available with 5.2/5.9 and a AX15/NV3500. the 4.0 bellhousing won't work though i don't think a junkyard would want to much for a bellhousing

the HO's use a spacer and a pilot bearing. the renix don't have the spacer the area where the spacer would be if it was a HO is just part of the crank. the ID where the bearing fits in should be the same size spacer or not. i think i remember hearing a guy found the correct one useing a CJ5 part number but i don't remember what transmission it was for

I thought about doing s SOA on mine but desided against it because i dident want to go long arms on the front. i have like 4.5" lift in the front and my short arms look about like this / lol. i just stuck a 3.5" add a leaf and lift shackles in the rear and 3" coil and a spacer up front. lifting coil sprung stuff is a pita jeep should have stuck to leaves.

you can replace it without useing a new crush sleeve but to do it the proper way you still need a $80 inch pound torque wrench. The FSM says to remove the axleshafts/carrier and get a baseline reading on the preload with a torque wench. so if it ends up taking 40 inch pounds to turn it you write it down and install the new seal and re-torque useing the 40 inch pounds and adding 5 inch pounds to it so it would be 45 inch pounds. i don't remember who told me about scribing a line on the pinion and nut. and when tighting it back up to retighten it to that mark and going another 1/4 turn but they said it worked fine... i never tried it but it seems like the simplest way to do it without special tools and tearing the axle down My friend's pinion seal is leaking on his YJ and he said the dealer wanted $130 to replace it. so he wanted me to do it and i told him no.. lol. its not really hard its just involved. i'm tired of working on other peoples junk

to torque it properly you have to pull the axleshafts/carrier out and mesure the preload on the bearings with a inch pound torque wrench. if you scribe a mark on the nut and on the pinion and tightned it back (lining the marks up) and went a little tighter (like 1/4 turn or something) it should be fine and you can save yourself alot of work.

does this apply to the liberty, too? what about JK's? there should be some kind of stiff penalty for waving at a minivan in jeeps clothing. electric chair maybe? or worse... forced to trade off your real jeep on a 4 door JK

Same thing happend on mine. I used that electrical cleaner in a spray can. i noticed all the fuses were cracked and when i started pulling them out the metal contacts in the fuseblock started falling out, Not good! I have a fuse block from the same year XJ I'm going to stick in it. best bet is this stuff afaik

I learned that heating up the end of the tube before you flare it with a propane torch then letting it cool off helps ALOT!

I agree

http://www.ledzeppelin.com/ pwn3d Indeed Pink Floyd pulled it off at live 8 and they were great. Zeppelin is doing a 2 hour set though... but I'm sure it will kick @$$

they sell the plastic piece and o ring kits for like $5. i put one on 1992 XJ that was leaking after i unhooked it to replace the radiator.

It's just regular pre-flared steel line you buy in lengths. i might try buying it from another auto parts place maybe this piece is harder than usual.. i don't know i have never flared before.

Thats the way i did it and i tightend the wing nuts all the way down. It's tight i don't know why it keeps pushing it through but it takes all the metal that its griping right off the tube with it. :dunno:

I am having problems flaring 3/8transmission line the tube just keeps pushing through the bar. I bought the flaring kit from OTC (same one snap-on sells) so i doubt its the fault of the tool (or maybe it is?). anyone had this problem any tips? this is my first attempt at double flaring

I herd that rumor more than a month ago Robert Plant laughed at it. I will beleive it when i see it

I just did this on my 4.0... the engine has to be at TDC on the compression stroke line the harmonic balancer mark up on the dampner 0*. You point the rotor at the #1 spark plug terminal but not directly at it! You set it so the trailing edge is just coming off it. If you point the rotor directly at it you will be 1 tooth off and it won't run for crap. the oil pump slot should be at about the 11 o'clock position you might have to play with it a little. When you stick the dist in it will rotate clockwise cause of the gear. when its fully seated the trailing edge of the rotor should just be leaving #1 cap terminal.

I wouldent use RTV on it. Removing it and cleaning it next time will make it a b*@$£. You will end up with chunks of old rtv falling into the intake.