jeepthing07

I use the rear exhaust manifold bolt and the bolt at the front of the head on the pass side when lifting 4.0's with 1-2 extra chain links to the back to get the angle on it. works for me

The double cut lock cylinders are bigger than the GM type. YJ double cut lock cyls won't fit in CJ GM single cut door holes. So I'm guessing its the same on XJ's.

I think it’s just the Jeep crane cams that are failing. The lobes are narrower than OEM cams and with stiffer springs and oil with hardly any Phosphurus/Zinc they fail. I started running STP oil treatment in my engines with flat tappet cams to get the Phosphurus/Zinc back the government regulations took out. The Crane cam failures www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthrea ... =crane+cam The Phosphurus/Zinc problem www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923009 Phosphurus/Zinc Oil chart www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

I have herd nothing but bad things about crane cams. You should search through the jeeps unlimited speed freaks forum for stroker info. There is a guy there "Dino Savva" He knows alot about the 4.0 and building them. I remember reading that he had a Crane cam but a lobe or 2 went flat (seems to be a big problem with crane cams) and he went back to the orignal cam and he was happier with it's performance. I would take the money for the cam and spend it on the 1999+ intake manifold. I just tore down a 4.0 and i found the cheapest gasket set at the dealer it was only like $52 part# p4529245 came with... Head, oil pan, timing cover, rear main seal, valve cover, oil pump, intake/exhaust, water pump gaskets. It was all Fel-pro stuff too... only thing it was missing was timing cover seal and thermostat housing gasket.

Jack each tire up and grab top and bottom of the tire wiggle it to see if the ball joints are loose.

I would guess around $2,000 2wd's go pretty cheap. I just bought a 2wd 1997 4.0/auto cherokee for $1,000 but it has 188K and needs some work. It turnd out not to bas as good of a deal as i thought it was. it has some dents in it but no rust except for the pass side floor it has a hole from moisture getting trapped under the carpet from the AC dripping.

I also have a Centerforce stage 1 clutch to so that might be part of the problem with mine. Some people have had them machined and never had a problem but they were probably running cheap after market replacments that don't grip as well as CF hell i don't know its a jeep thing no one knows.

It says right in my FSM for 1994 XJ/YJ's "Flywheel machining is NOT recomended. The Flywheel surface is manufactured with a unique conture that would be negated by machining" I now have problems with my clutch not releasing fully after having it machined. I had it ballanced to so thats not the problem.

You will blowout a rear main seal or a timing cover seal.

I bet he just searches youtube. More importantly, can I save these to my computer? using firefox? if so, there's an add on that lets you save flash movies. Can u do that with IE? I've been trying with no success... Just go here http://vixy.net/ put in the youtube URL and it will convert it to .AVI and then you can download it and watch it on WMP or whatever you have that supports .avi

Thanks thats the info i was looking for! i kind of figured it was going to have to come out now i have to drill and tap holes in thes spacer to pull the bugger out.

http://aphroditeastrology.com/2007/05/w ... -2012.html http://www.polereversal.com/ This videos really long but alot of what the guy talks about fits and its pretty intresting if you can sit through it lol http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... &plindex=1 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... &plindex=0

Well the automatic don't use a pilot bearing but it has a stickout on the converter that looks like it might end up where the bearing is at now so i don't know if i need to pull it out or not Edit: Yep! lol

It's not just the Mayans that predicted 2012 the Hopi Native Americans also predicted it (and web-bot for what thats worth) Most people think its going to be a Pole Shift. because of the Galactic Alignment. Then there are some people that think its going to be an Alien invasion :nuts: I think it's going to be a pole shift they are predicting massive solar storms in 2011-2012 happens to be at the same time as the Galactic Alignment. And the earth is normaly fairly round and it has started getting more egg shaped in recent years. This isint the Y2K reset your VCR's to 1980 BS. I guess in 5 years we will see.

Looks like a Rock terrain not Mud terrain. I guess i will be switching brands when my KM's wear out probably buy some General Tire MT's

I recommend not useing champion at all and getting NGK's Edit: i found this on the RC12ECC http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl508f.htm It don't make any sense his problem was with the RC12ECC and the recall was on the RC12LYC maybe a typo? eh... whatever i never had any problems with NGK

I am swaping a 4.0 out of a manual trans with the pilot bearing into a XJ with a automatic. The torque converter has a nub coming out of the center and i am wondering if i have to remove the pilot bearing and spacer to get the AW4's torque converter to mate up to the 4.0 with the bearing still in the crank or if it will fit even with the bearing in there?

bearing retainers are different on the trans internal/external

yes

Use a 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket. if you ever have to pull the pan again you won't be laying under the truck with oil driping on your hair/face scraping every last bit of RTV off the bottom of the block. double lip rear main seals are nice to. cork valve cover gaskets are cheap compared to the rubber and i havent had them leak.

When i drain a tank i take the fuel line loose and stick it in a bucket. And use a air compressor with a rag wraped around the hose and shove it in the filler neck and let the air push the fuel out into the bucket.

That looks like a CJ rollbar mounted backwards lol. It looks good with it removed.

I patched the drivers side with the rear wheel arch from a 2wd XJ. it came out pretty good i still have some grinding to do but it looks alot better than a hole.

The factory paint is a better rust preventative than herculiner. herculiner is good stuff but when you get rough with it, it does peel. I would rather have paint under my bald patches than bare metal. I put 2 coats on my MJ and I thought I got it good till it dried and seen that it was thin in a spot and I could still see paint in direct sunlight. And when you get aircraft striper in seams and don’t get paint/herc in the tiniest of places the striper reached your welcoming rust

All you need to do is scuff up the paint to give the liner a rough surface to stick to. if you take it down to bare metal your gonna have problems