jeepthing07

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... _Code=J258

Rubicon 44's had lockers. they were electric right? i wonder how hard it would be to wire one up

If you could get a complete one in a junkyard cheap it might be worth doing, But these guys just threw money at it hoping it would stick. They could have gotten a custom dynatrack pro44 for the money they dumped into that rubicon 44. housing $600 elocker $687.96 yukon gears $159.60 Superior Axle right $384.39 Superior Axle left $363.39 Hub Conversion $1,242.99 Bearing seal kit $199.00 Yoke $50 for a subtotal of $3684 And that don't even cover the cost of the gears they paid to have set up or the new rotors and other odds and ends. :nuts:

Yes i know this... But HP are stronger when used in the front because the reverse cut of the gears actually drive on the drive side of the gear not the coast (like low pinion) so your not really gaining much strength there. And being a high pinion the pinion is like 4" taller improving driveshaft angles and keeping the drive shaft better protected. The tubes are the same thickness as the D30 your really not gaining that much strength for the price your paying. you get 30 spline shafts and if they are built anything like the 297X D30 shafts it don't matter because the ears will rip off the shafts before the joint fails which is why you need aftermarket shafts anyways. The only real benefit you get is in saying "my jeep has a D44 front" but the only people you will impress with that line is guys that bolt brush guards on their geo metros. I just think if your going to swap a D44 do it right and use a HP44 with .500 tubes kingpins and locking hubs.

It's a junk Rubicon low pinion D44/D30 hybrid. "With a little dealing, we had the bare Jeep Rubicon housing sitting in our driveway for under $600 with the Jeep parts tag still attached." they think they got a deal buying one of the weakest D44 housings ever made? he would have been better off swapping high strength shafts into the HP D30 he already had wouldn't have been much weaker and he could have saved a lot of money.

yeah you can change front ends all you need to do is change the grill mount location because YJ fenders are like 1.5" longer but its all bolt on besides that. CJ5's look really good with YJ front ends.

MJ's are a mix of SAE and metric. all saginaw boxes are SAE i hope you used grade 8 bolts atleast i think the factory are grade 10

Stroke comes from the crank not the bore. there is no engine family for the 2.5 its all alone so there are no cranks that will stroke it. i guess you could have it offset ground but it wouldn't get you much. just put a turbo on it they have been doing that for years on the 2.5. you can use a turbo off a dodge daytona there are write ups for it. this is a pretty good site for 2.5 performance http://www.4bangerjp.com/forums/

I have herd nothing but bad things about flushing engines. like engine failures because all of the crud that was stuck to your engine is now floating around in it. i flushed my 2.5 with seafoam its not supposed to be as harsh and i still changed my filter twice to make sure i got rid of as much of the gunk as possible. it didn't seem to have hurt mine

i ripped the padding out of my XJ and por15'd the floors and put the carpet back in

I have that air compressor its never let me down i have never painted or sanded with it but iv ran impacts and ratchets. its totally worth $9.99 i think i paid like $200 for mine new

$700

10w40 Castrol syntec blend, STP oil treatment in the blue bottle (can't find the red) and WIX filter

I run Wix oversize filter to hold the extra oil addative i dump in to get the zinc and phosphorous back that the government took out of motor oil. Flat tappet cams need the zinc for the metal on metal contact that newer cars don't need as much of because they are all roller cams. The government don't care about our 4.0's and 2.5's http://www.wheels.daytondailynews.com/d ... 15WOW.html

I would say its about a 6 it can be kinda messy with oil dripping in your face. the only real hard part is tapping the old seal out on the block side without nicking the crank you should use a brass punch. other than that and owning a torque wrench its not bad. I have used both single and double lip seals and neither leaked double lip would be a good idea though

The intake ports are higher on the HO. i can't find a picture of the renix ports but there more similer to the 258 ports. The exhaust ports are the same on renix and HO 4.0 ports 258 ports

the idler pully? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... 06&PTSet=A

you will need to put a pilot bearing/bushing in the end of the crank but thats it

Wix 51515 is what i use (SAE thread for HO motors)

CJ-10 tugs are about worthless i can't believe they are asking so much for it they were built to tow airplanes around. if it was the pickup version it might be worth it but $6,500 is to much to pay for a cool tub and front end.

cheap NGK's

ehh i think that stud is welded to the unibody. they get really rusty its probably stripped out. if thats the problem drill it out or just grab the airbox and rip lol

I like the white too.. thats a mean looking MJ i like it!

i put some on my MJ i don't remember how much drop they were I'm thinking 1.5" i haven't driven it so i don't know if i have any vibes from them but here's a pic

i just found this on jeepsunlimited.com.. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=880956