jpfrogger

THANKS PETE!

Thanks for the info. I will contact them. Anyone else with experience please feel free to comment. Tom

I am looking to buy one of these NP231 doubler kits. Does anyone here have any experience with one of these kits and their installation into a Comanche? I am also having trouble trying to find where to buy one of these kits. It appears that the DD Machine kit is the least expensive at around $399 but where do I find where to buy it. Anyone have any input? Thanks in advance, Tom

So if different color body injectors mean different flow rates I guess I should have changed them all out from the black bodied to the white bodied injectors. If it's not too much work can anyone verify what color their injectors are and what year MJ? It seems to run the same so far, I'll let everyone know if it behaves differently with the mixed injectors.

After replacing the o-rings on all 6 injectors I found the leak to be in the body of 2 of the injectors between the plastic section and metal section. My guess is that the expansion and contraction of the two dissimilar materials created a leakage path. Anyway, I had a spare intake with injectors and replaced the two leakers with a couple newer ones. Interestingly enough the 1989 motor had black plastic body injectors and the 1990 motor injectors had a white body. Additionally, the 1989 injectors used black o-rings at the top of the injector and brown ones at the bottom, whereas the 1990 model used the same o-rings top and bottom which is what the replacement GP Sorenson kit had in it. Hope this helps someone else out in the future. Look closely for the leakage path as it could very well be the body of the injector.

Ok, will do. I'll buy the o-ring kit first and replace those and not drive it meanwhile. I got lots of other vehicles to get me around so I don't torch it. Thanks

With the onset of cold weather I just noticed that my 2 front injectors on my 1989 4.0L MJ are leaking gas. Can this be fixed by replacing the o-rings or is it possible that they are leaking from the body of the injector and the injectors themselves need replacing? Thanks for any assistance.

Not custom axles. Just shorten and respline the originals, costs alot less. I think it's about $100 to shorten the housing and $75 or so to shorten both shafts. You are probably correct that it's too much effort for the Dodge 9.25" , but I would definately do it for a Semi-Float Dana 60 with stock 35 spline axleshafts!

From a previous post regarding Dakota axles a thought sprung to mind. Didn't the Dodge full size 1/2 ton trucks of the 70's and early 80's run a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern and didn't some of them come with Chrysler's 9.25" rear axle? If so, it would'nt cost that much to narrow a rear axle housing and shafts thru Moser Engineering and they have to be cheap and easy to find under most any Ramcharger, Pickup or even a Dodge Van I would think. Any thoughts on using one of these as a donor axle?

I was thinking of custom shafts with 31, 33, or 35 spline shafts and the full spool to match, but no funds right now for the upgrades and they would have to be done later. I prefer to do all the axle work with it out and thought if I could get by with the Dana 35 for awhile it might be worth waiting on the 8.8" till it's complete. I just hate the thought of busting on the trail and limping it back to the trailer.

Ok, so I also have a 8.8" rear out of a Lincoln Mark VII LSC that is the same width as the stock axle with the same 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. It has rear discs, 4.10 gears and a mini spool and c-clip eliminators. However, it only has the 28 spline shafts. Will it hold up to the 35" tires in the MJ without alot of rock-crawling, just general off-roading in mud, sand, etc.? Thanks

I've got a question regarding the survivability of the Dana 35 axle if it is used on an MJ that has been trimmed down on weight with 35" tires. Is the tire diameter the bigger factor or the weight on the axle with how long the Dana 35 will survive? The stock weight per literature for my MJ is approx. 3100 lbs. Now I have removed most of the weight that I can tolerate such as Doors, rear window, rear bumper, most of the interior, short exhaust, no tailgate, etc. to try to get the weight down to less than 2800 lbs with the 35" tires and wheels. Does anyone have a good sense of whether the Dana 35 will survive in a medium duty off road application, not alot of rock crawling. Thanks

I just bought a set of the Warrior Products doors and they are really nice. I have yet to install them, but I think they are worth the price as they look well made and the door latches look the same as Bestop uses on their tops.

For 92 and newer AX15 transmission with older pre-92 Jeep motors you have to use a pilot bushing for a 73 Jeep CJ5 with the 304V8 engine, at least that's what I found to fit when I replaced my Peugeot with the AX15 from a 97 Wrangler.

I am thinking about the 5.9L motor although I guess I could settle for the 5.2L. Will the AX15 hold up reasonably well behind these motors? Thanks