Eagle_SX4

Axle side or frame side? Barnes4wd has a replacement axle side bracket. https://barnes4wd.com/products/jeep-tj-lj-mj-xj-and-zj-front-axle-track-bar-bracket If you need a frame side bracket you will need to clarify if you need a factory style or aftermarket double sheer style.

There was a similar thread a few years ago.

You are probably looking for good used one but Jegs appears to have a Crown one in stock. https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown-Automotive/077/83503722/10002/-1

It will be interesting to see how this turns out. Are you planning on installing a marker light on the outside of the bed?

I find that removing the small hose on the thermostat housing is a better way to completely fill the engine with coolant. It bypasses the thermostat and is the highest point when on flat ground. You can also fill the heater core from the hose you pulled off. *Just be careful when removing the hose so you don't have to replace it.*

Have you tried to replicate this will parked? Could be that the ignition wires under dash by the brake pedal get pulled or shorted out when braking.

You will need to pull the gear out of you truck and just multiply the number of teeth by .18 then add that number to the tooth count. Then round to the nearest whole number. Example using a 32 tooth gear 32x.18=5.76 32+5.76=37.76 Round up to 38 for the gear count.

Yes the eagles have a heater control valve.

I have not had any overheating issues with my Eagle. When working the cooling system is way better than the Comanche's could ever be. It takes my Eagle at least 1.5 miles longer to fully warm up than my Comanche. Defiantly make sure it is clear and not clogged up. My radiator is original as well but mine is working great. If you do need a new radiator, as far as I know they are not made for the Eagle. However one for a CJ7 is nearly the same size, the ports are just in slightly different locations.

I would get an infrared thermometer and start checking temps all around and see if there is a clog in the system. If your radiator is original that is might be the issue, or your water pump is rusted away and not moving any coolant. Even when hot my Eagle never even gets 1/2 up the green.

I know I uploaded a .pdf scan of the '87 service highlights. So it was possible. I tried uploading it again and it worked. (I didn't keep it uploaded)

I had one cable melt because it fell on to the exhaust. I would just use a hose clamp and secure it to the axle tube. If you want a hidden hose clamp use some black electrical heat shrink to cover the band of the hose clamp and put the screw of the hose clamp on the front of the axle.

It might just be your oil filter adapter. The o-rings are cheap and easy to replace.

That is super cool if I didn't already have a dana 44 in mine I would be interested.

It's hard to tell from the picture but that might be an AMC 20 rear axle. Not much after market support for those but much better than the standard 35.

What brand are the arms you have bought?

The thread I linked earlier has the info for blocking off the port.

That defiantly looks like part error.

The 95 ZJ booster looks just like the dual diaphragm booster used in the XJ's in 95. Although it appears to have a shorter actuation rod. The 94 and 95 ZJ's used different boosters and different master cylinders. You could probably change both out and maybe fab up some brake lines and be back on the road.

Yes, and the port on the front port on the bottom needs to get plugged.

There appears to be some on rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1995,grand+cherokee,5.2l+v8,1182114,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

That is the Mopar part number. Did you get the Mopar arms and are still having trouble with them?

Nice fix. Just be aware that those set screw clamps can wear through and break the cables. When I swapped to the 98+ horseshoe manifold on my 4.0 I had a similar issue with the new H.O. throttle cable and the Renix gas pedal. I ended up pulling my gas pedal out of the truck and bending it away from the firewall to match the new longer throttle cable it worked great.

It looks like both rear brake lines are still hooked up to the distribution block so you will need to delete the emergency bypass line. It is most likely the one that was cut and is leaking. However with that being said whoever swapped the axle in didn't do a great job by only cutting the line. I would trace your brake line all the way to the back and make sure the proper one is hooked up to the forward most port on the distribution block. Also it looks like your leaf spring is bent in this photo. Near the front eyelet.

This XJ was on bring a trailer. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-jeep-cherokee-4/