Eagle_SX4

I was having a strange issue where I was getting death wobble from the rear. Turns out it was just the Chevy drop shackles I was using. Swapped back to the original shackles and everything is good. My theory is that the angle of the longer shackles is to blame. I would like to move the frame side shackle mounting point forward to get a better angle with the longer shackles. Has anyone done this? I know there are shackle relocation brackets available for the XJ. However I have not found any solutions for the Comanche. I am open to welding new brackets on the frame.

This is the one I purchased and it fits okay but not great. It is the right width at the tailgate but not towards the cab. It is a little to narrow. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYYKTUB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I have a toolbox in the bed of my truck and had to shorten it length wise. The frame comes apart and was easy to shorten the hard part was the sewing the cover. If I was to do it again I would buy the same cover for a full size truck and cut the frame down to fit the bed better and redo the cover completely to fit the modified frame. Edit: it is for a Ford ranger 82-13

Not sure if this will help or not but when I took my doors apart to paint them I noted where all the rods went on the latch. Here is the pic

I can never tell what direction the flow is on those check valves. I have had this happen before and always blow through them to find out which way goes towards the engine.

A trick I use to get everything full is to pull the small hose off the thermostat housing and fill the block from there.

You might find this helpful.

The sensor you pulled out is not one of the coolant sensors it is the intake air temp sensor. There are 2 different coolant sensors. One for the computer and one for the gauge. The one you got goes under the manifolds straight into the engine block.

If you want to know the number of the computer clean off the epoxy at the sight I drew around the number is on the chip. A damp paper towel works well.

That is strange maybe check the ohms on the sending while this is happening. See if the problem is with the sending unit.

That looks like the same alternator I am using. The common issue with those alternators is back fed voltage. There are several threads out there on the subject. The answer is always to add a diode. My alternator was back feeding about 3-4 volts keeping the auto shutdown relay triggered until that 3-4 volts was enough to keep the relay triggered. Not sure how the 2.5 EFI is wired to shut down but it must be different than the H.O. 4.0. Which is why your symptoms are different than mine.

Bouncy fuel gauge is normal on both my dad's eagle and mine I wouldn't worry about that very much. They are both very sensitive and shaking the cars does allow the fuel gauge to bounce. This happens even though I have a 94 XJ sending unit and my dad has the original. My theory is that in the early gauges there is not a capacitor that feeds the gauge and is just relying on the change in ohms and with the fuel sloshing in the tank the arm moves faster causing the gauge to jump up and down.

What alternator are you using? If it is a GM 3 wire then that is probably your problem. I had the same issue with my Eagle and had to put a diode in line of the alternator wires. Here is a link to what I used to solve the problem. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383842448033

Pic of the front end. Sitting at 2" lift in the front.

Using a string tied to the mounting points on each end of both bars and a digital angle finder they are about 1.5 degrees out of parallel. Will get a pic later today.

Thanks @Gojira94 looks like I need to pull a stock pitman arm from the junkyard next time I go.

Finally figured out what I think my death wobble is caused by. My track bar and drag link are not parallel. What is the stock size of the pitman arm. The ? in the photo? All I can find is that the ZJ is 1 inch more than XJ/MJ but can't find any actual dimensions. Mine measures between 4.5 and 5 inches hard to tell with it still installed. 2nd question what is the factory length of the track bar pivot from the frame? I have an aftermarket double sheer bracket and bar. I think it is a drop bracket and is not correct for my application. It measures about 6 inches down from the frame

XJ's and MJ's don't have the same rear leafs. MJ's are about 6 inches longer and have a lot more free arch as they are spring under axle and XJ's are spring over axle.

Thanks the fender still needs some work to be perfect but it is really close.

Thanks. Unfortunately the bed will have to wait for spring to be painted. It is getting to cold to do paint anymore this year. Chance of snow on Friday morning.

Same thing happened to me recently and it only took me about 2 hours to do. I just pulled out the lower trim panels and back wall panel (mine don't have a lot of screws in them) and pulled back the carpet. Didn't even have to remove the seat.

Got the doors back on the truck. @schardeinThanks again for the antenna base. Next up is the front fenders flares. I am not going to run the air dam so I need to modify the front of them to accommodate for that.

I got one from autozone and it was also louder than the one I replaced. When I got mine the only option was "heavy duty". It might be that all new fan clutches for the 4.0 might be spec'd at a lower temp lock up to help keep the very hot engine cool.

On the road is better than being towed. There was a Cherokee sending unit in my truck when I got it (didn't know) and couldn't figure out why I could never put more than 14 gallons in my tank before running out of gas.

Your synchros are probably bad. I had the same thing happen to my AX15 because the previous owner put the wrong type of fluid in it and it literally ate the brass synchros. Quickest way to confirm is to change the fluid in your transmission. If it has gold glitter in the fluid it is definitely your synchros.

Hard to tell for sure but it looks like that might be a Cherokee sending unit.