MJCARENA

Hello my 1988 4.0 auto Comanche is being stubborn. Started her up and pulled it out of the garage so I could clean up the garage. Ran a little rough, I just figured it was cold. At the end of the day I go to pull it back in and it just cranks. No start and doesn't sound like it wants to. I checked the fuel pressure and have 32 psi. Checked for spark and have it at the coil and at the plugs. The exhaust smells like gas so I assumed it was flooded. Pulled the plugs out and they looked good, not wet or fouled, Put a new set in just to be sure. Still just cranks. Listened to the injectors while cranking and can hear them working. I have eliminated the 101 connector by passing it about 5 months ago. Redid my grounds and did the ground upgrade including soldering the splices then also. A fellow worker suggested to try starting fluid to see if it will try to run. I did this and it starts and runs fine, but when I turn it off it will not start again without starting fluid.Very strange. The fuel pressure is 32 psi when it is running and 40 when I pull the vaccum line of the regulator. So I assume my pump is good, Can also hear the pump run when you turn the key on. Any advice would be greatly welcomed.

Must of been rearended pretty hard if it needs two doors and a front fender. Sounds like it good for parts only.

You can pull the axleshaft out and plug the end up with a rag or something as a temp fix. Did this to get home from wheeling. Make sure you leave the stub shaft in the hub or your unit bearing will come apart. They are not much at junkyards or check craigslist for some one parting out a cherokee.

Did you try bypassing the wiper intermittent module. Just pull the connectors off the module and connect them together. .g

Red Rocker 79 sent you a PM

Is yours a 2wd. I think the auto on column 2wd bench does not have the notch. (Seen one in the junk yard like that) All the 4wd ones I have seen have the notch.

It's not mine, if that is what you meant.

Here is one on craigslist http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/3474795323.html

Why do the job twice, just start doing grey. The plastic parts you can paint grey. Its a work in progress, so it doesn't have to match till you're done with it, or it doesn't have to match at all if you like it like that.

Well the joke about 60 men go down and 30 couples come up, just won't be the same.

My bling Bronze colored one Gold colored one S/N 0015

Take apart the C101 connector and clean it out. It is the big connector above the brake booster.

I would check the crank position sensor first. Try disconnecting it and reconnect it first. The if it still won't start check it out with a meter.CRUISER54 has posted a write up how to do this. Do a search on it. I would, but on my phone.

I built the bucket traps for some of my work sites and they work great. I use just water.

It says it is 6.6 inches tall. A little low if want to put lights on it. Also only 12.2 inches wide.

Thanks Pete, got my magnet and cards today. Looks great.

Are you sure it is not transmission fluid in the radiator water, if you have an automatic. There is no oil pressure for the oil returning back down to the block from the head.

Did it really overheat or did just the gauge indicate hot? I also thought that the fan turns on around 230 degrees.

The second one looks like a chevy blazer emblem.

Timing chain jumped?

Don't mess with Rob.

So you hear the pump running, but no fuel pressure. Could be the hose inside the tank came off or broke.

I went to the junk yard and found some good soft flexible ones on an XJ. Was around $10.

Welcome. At least they highlighted the bad parts in green. Looking foward to your build.

Looking good. How did you pull the bed sides out?