MJCARENA

I had almost the same problem with mine. Would only start cold with a shot of starting fluid, and then start normal with the engine warm. Had spark and good fuel pressure while cranking, The exhaust pipe smelled like raw fuel, like it was flooded. Turned out to be my Temp sensor for the ECU (on the block by the motor mount drivers side) You said you changed the temp sensor. But which one? Hope this helps.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/3687328519.html

If you have power to going to the turn signal switch from the flasher, it could be a bad hazard switch or the turn signal switch (but you said that has been changed twice). I would try playing with the hazard switch while the turn signal switch is turned on and the key is in the run position to see if they start working.

Which flasher did you replace. The hazard one is seperate from the turn one. Do your indicators light up on thr dash.

Looks like it has a lot of play to me. Do you have a locker, like a Lock-Rite installed? Those have some play in them.

I also have a 89 XJ Wagoneer. Not as good looking as yours.

No XJ wagoneers at junk yard.

Is this for an XJ version of the Wagoneer or the full size one in your avatar? Going to the junk yard tomorrow and will keep an eye out for one.

Year, 1990 Make,JEEP Model.COMANCHE Image, Engine, 4.0 Trans, Manual? Rear axle, Dana 44 Wheelbase, longbed, 2WD Build date:? Current Location: Phoenix Arizona Status: Junk yard Notes: Gray primer over red. Gray interior with bench seat and headrests, I got the tailgate, rear dana 44 and the leaf springs ( think metric ton 3 main and 2 overloads). Current owner: Pick A Part on Broadway

Don't worry, in a couple of days you will forget this happened.

Never heard of copper brake lines. Googled it and learned something new. Pretty cool, easier to work with and corrosion resistant

Looking good. Just a question, is that copper tubing you are using for brake lines?

So far it has started every time. I would like to thank all of you for your help and advice.

If I remember right the sender for the light has a slot cut into the threaded part at the top like a screw, the one for the gauge has no slot.

Yes I moved the wire harness when cranking. I have done the sensor ground test and upgrade when I did the C101 bypass. I did have bad crimps in the harness, soldered the splices and the ground test was good after that. I have read your tips and applied most of them. Started right up this morning and drove it to work. Ran smooth.

I soldered them and used heat shrink.

Tried it this morning and just now, she started right up both times, looking good. I still have to mount the sensor.

Tried it again and it starts, going for a ride. Still not sure this was it, will give it a few days before I have confidence in it again.

Worked on it this morning. Slotted my CPS and now have .55 volts from it disconnected, Reconnected it and still won't start. Measured and adjusted my TPS using the flat connector. Still no start. Changed out my fuel filter, no help. Swapped computers from my 1989 XJ. The XJ starts with the Comanche computer, but the Comanche doesn't start with the XJ computer. Unplugged and replugged just about every connector under the hood,no help. Plugged in my spare Coolant Temp Sensor, just left it hanging, and she starts, tried it about ten times and she started every time. Going to let it sit for a couple of hours and check again. Hope this was it.

Measured my CPS again with it disconnected and got .30 volts. So I will try to get it higher by slotting it or get another one. Would not start today with the engine cold. Going to work on it tomorrow.

I will check out the flat connector, and yes it is the dealer mod on the CPS.

My CPS has the factory mod done to it, eliminated the connector and replaced the wires/pins going to the ECU. I would have to undo the soldered splice to disconnect the TPS to measure it. Will do this tomorrow and get a reading on it. I did the square plug for automatics. Measured D to A (4.65) and D to B (3.85) then did the math and came out to .827 My book says it should be .83

Tried to start her when I got home and would not start. Measured my CPS by backprobing while cranking it .39 volts ac. I don't see that as a problem since I do have spark. Checked the adjustment of the TPS and it is good. Used starting fluid and it started right up. My CPS is putting out 1.25 volts ac at idle. Drove it around for about 15 minutes. Drives normal, accelerates good.At idle in gear it feels like a very small miss. Idle is around 600 rpm in gear. Turned on the ac and it maintained 600 rpm, but still just a little rough idle. Got home and since it is up to operating temp it starts every time. Waited about an hour and it still starts. My CPS still measured .39 volt ac when cranking. Will try again in the morning when it has cooled down. Going to change my fuel filter tomorrow also, since I don't remember ever changing it. The air filter is clean looking, blew it out anyways.

My fuel pressure drops to 18 overnight, so I think my check valve and regulator are good.

I have not driven it. Just idle and rev the engine in park and idle in gear. Will take it out for a drive tomorrow.