Jump to content

Salvagedcircuit

Members
  • Posts

    1389
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Salvagedcircuit

  1. I did the same thing to my MJ. Previous owner lifted it 2-2.5in using front spring puck spacers. Stock original control arms. Stock swaybar with no lift blocks. I achieved stock comanche ride height according to the dimensions listed on comancheclub / MJ manual. Here's what I did: Front: MOOG K160039 Coil Spring Insulator Moog CC782 Bilstein 24185622 MOOG K3171 for stock MJ swaybar diameter Dorman lower and upper MJ/XJ control arms New front axle bushing moog swaybar links Rear: MONROE 58484 hilman bronze bushings from tractor supply Moog K150405 Front: I removed the pucks and went with two new MOOG K160039 Coil Spring Insulator and a set of moog CC782 front coil springs. These springs are for a cherokee with an upcountry package, but they were the cheapest and quickest springs I could get at the time, and my brother used the exact ones on his XJ. I went with bilstein 24185622 shocks for the front because the monroe and rancho shocks I purchased locally and online were defective. I tried four sets of monroe and 2 sets of rancho front shocks. They were all incredibly underdamped out of the package. Even after priming them and leaving them sit upright, the rebound time was measured in minutes. no car shock should take minutes to rebound. The bilsteins were far more responsive and well worth the money. I went with dorman control arms because they were like $26ea at the time and I didn't need to press anything. I did notice there was some sample variation between control arms and needed to purchase 4 sets. Dorman changed the design at one time and the metal was thicker on the left side vs the right. after choosing between 4 sets, I got a set that matched. I returned the duds. Folks here like going with the WJ control arms because they are fully boxed in. The dorman ones can be fine, just be picky. Or get some bushings and press new bushings into your old contol arms. I would highly suggest replacing the front axle bushing as this is usually original to the vehicle, 35+ years old and rotting. It's a doosy of a job but it's well worth it. no wobbles here! You will need to rent a bushing press tool from advance/orileys. Now is also not a bad time to consider grabbing a ZJ or WJ control arm for the front. They are larger diameter than XJ/MJ and a lot of folks on here are happy with the results. Also, get new swaybar links or a swaybar link bushing kit. Do not get it locally. The one I originally grabbed from advance failed in 2 weeks. The rubber cracked while being torqued to specification. I went with a moog kit and was ok. Mevotech also makes some nice stuff. Rear: I went with MONROE 58484 helper shocks in the back. Other folks on comanchclub used these with success. I also happened to use this same series on my astro van with great success. You will need to use bushings to make these work as the ID is different than the OD of the shock post on the comanche. I also upgrade my rear leaf springs, but it was likely unneeded with the helper shocks. I ended up using XJ rear leaf shackles since I did not want to press in new bushings into the old shackles. I did not have a press. I think there is about a ~1.25in height difference between the readily available XJ leaf shackles and the stock MJ shackles. Because my leaf springs ended up being some weird custom package from st.louis spring, the XJ leaf shackle ended up providing me the perfect stock ride height.
  2. Excellent taste right there
  3. Absolutely mint grand wagoneer in front of my post office. I peaked through the windows and the interior was also immaculate. This one had to have been restored.
  4. This is the hose that's commonly available https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9805924&cc=1181584&pt=6900&jsn=16342 With the ebay link and the rockauto link, both lines are now available. Yay.
  5. Gonna drop this here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/126363936003
  6. Woah there. Wow. That's pretty crazy!
  7. According to this thread: The long bed GMC Sonoma / Chevy S10 Tonneau cover seems to dimensionally fit: I found the s10 bed dimensions on the s10 forum. The longbed S10 measures 88.31in, incredibly close to the 88in length of the comanche longbed. I checked more modern vehicles and it seems the 7ft bed sonoma / s10 is the only real option for the comanche longbed https://automotozine.com/truck-bed-dimensions-size-chart/ The specific Tonneau cover mentioned in that thread is the Access TonnoSport Tonneau Cover 22020159 This is a video showing the install of that tonnosport cover on a s-10. I don't know if the video shows a longbed or not:
  8. Still searching for a tonneau cover for a longbed. I don't know of any. Hopefully I'll find one for a ford, chevy, toyota or nissan that's dimensionally compatible
  9. Got some astro photos of the comanche. No stitching needed. Used light painting around the tail lights to illuminate the foreground. It became too cloudy to get a good front isometric view. Hopefully tonight will be clearer and I'll be able to get a better shot.
  10. Excellent work! You even have the headrest bench seat! Super jealous!
  11. I was today years old when I found out that some bench seats had head rests! Wow. The question remains, to swap or not to swap?
  12. For your application, I'd say it'll work a treat. The 4.0L and 2.5 are good engines, just avoid any Peugeot transmission. If you live in a non-dense area, It will suit your needs well. If you live in los angeles or NYC and want to use it as a DD, you sir are truly nuts. If I were to do it again, I'd find an '89+ 4x4 MJ from a southern state with low rust I think 89 was the year they moved away from duct-tape electrical crimps when the electrical harness was redesigned but I have not confirmed this. Keep in mind southern trucks may not have used glycol coolent, and used straight water instead. so your radiator will likely need replacement on a southern truck and the engine a good flush.
  13. I'm a bit hesitant to use el cheapo store brand tires. I use 235/75R15's Firestone Destination AT/2's on mine, but I don't have a lot of miles on them yet. I purchased them new. My family has using the destination AT series on the astro for ~20years and have had good luck with them. I think we went through 2 or 3 sets in that time. They don't prematurely wear out, and the astro is a tank in the snow with AWD. That saying, mine are made in costa rica and the ones on my van were made in the states. Some folks have luck searching junk yards for newer vehicles with the right tire size and buying mostly new tires at a discount, but this only really works if you have a tire machine. Most places charge you per tire mounting/dismounting fees, balancing and stems. By the time you do that you don't really save any money vs buying new.
  14. Awesome Work. Love the 0.0 litre badge
  15. I'd grab an electronic flasher locally from advance or napa, like the Grote 44891, and see if it fixes the problem. I use that in my MJ and it helped with a weird issue I was having with my new led headlights and a very quiet yet new thermo-mechanical flasher.
  16. Hahaha. Awesome!
  17. Sometimes I gotta stretch the muscles and help the payloader get un-stuck Just kidding.
  18. That door to panel alignment... I'm totally Jealous!
  19. Nice! ZJ disc brake conversion sounds cool. I replaced my exhaust manifold and found my lower header was completely toast. I then later found out my muffler was making rattling noises aka the internal spot welds sheared off. Thankfully the cat was ok.
  20. Was there a BSA Jeep comanche ad? Made mine in '10
  21. I was going through my photos and found this. I think this was at this years or last years connecticut flywheel engine show: I would have grabbed it but the tools seemed cheese grade.
  22. Woah nice view!
  23. Excellent view! My power steering line started sweating, so I replaced both of them. Sure enough they had the yellow 10-10-87 AMC marking on them. That's one hell of a run. Glad the new lines exist. I got some sunsong ones they seemed fine.
×
×
  • Create New...