White_Comanche

Might be able to help you out on this manual. The 2.5L quick-reference guide I made turned out well. I do catalog design work, and layout + typography.

I too, have a Clock REM. The first project it helped me out with was calibrating the tach in a 1990 cluster I installed. I've been monitoring the manifold pressure and coolant temp with it mostly. Seeing results in real-time while driving is cool. All the functions are a bit overwhelming at first, but piece by piece I'm able to grasp them in an entry level sort of way. One thing I'd recommend is going to his website and copy and paste all the REM functions pertaining to your 2.5 or 4.0. The folded pamphlet that came in my box (late 2022) was old, not updated, and organized poorly. His website has all updated copy. All the readings that these REMs display always cycles in order. What I did was write down each one in order... then I created my own cheat sheet from what was saved from his website. This process also helped me learn.

Looks like your 86 is in pretty decent shape. Think we'd all like to see more pictures!

Thanks a lot guys. I failed initially by trying to be smart and save time. Found out that only turning the motor shaft doesn't work! the entire assembly needs to be removed. Ended up doing exactly what pizzaman mentioned. Unbolted the crank and oriented everything back to park position. I used q-tips with bluetac to see how the wiper studs were arcing when the motor was turned on. Discovered I also needed to disconnect the bottom-drivers pivot bushing to get the passenger side to wipe in the correct way. Moral of the story: take note of the linkage orientation before diving to do a complete wiper motor overhaul.

I'm perplexed as to why my wiper arms park in this up position. I cannot adjust the arms in a horizontal way... if I do, they'll crash into the cowl. The swing of the arms have no issues. They go up and down making a proper arc. During the past month I spent lots of effort refurbishing my wiper motor, gear housing, bushings, etc. Also installed a working intermittent governor that Eaglescout sent me. Lo/Hi and intermittent speeds work great. But when switched to park (off) this is where they rest:

Since owning my MJ, I've been noticing how darn cool older trucks are. Lots of care went into beautifying this Chevy LUV. The owner found some knobby tires that really make the truck look rad.

Sold! Thanks Eagle for the wiper module.

Great thanks Eagle. If a newer ZJ wiper module can be used on an 86 Comanche I'll take it. Hopefully it checks out during testing.

I'd like to find an Intermittent Wiper Module in good overall shape that is known to work properly. Asking CC members first before getting one on ebay. Don't know what these things go for, but the few on ebay seem overpriced. Pretty sure mine is not operating right. When tapping on it with a finger, or physically rotating 180° it makes my wiper motor stutter and can sometimes move the wipers. Also low speed is not reliable.

You are describing much of the same wiper issues I've been working to resolve. These links below have guided me on which direction to go. What I'm doing is replacing the bushings, and also generally restoring the motor and gear housing. Fresh Yamaha Molyb grease will lube the gears. I found severe corrosion and very worn out bushings. Those two things can prevent the arms from parking. Soon I'll find out the results. Have not reinstalled it yet. When disconnecting the Intermittent Governor, and plugging both side connectors together, I'd say it's a good sign if only low/park work. https://comancheclub.com/topic/16246-wipers-won't-turn-off-wth/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/41809-no-windshield-wipers/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/61787-no-wipers/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/57353-comprehensive-wiper-modification-upgrade-maintenance/

Using a HEAT GUN on various MJ projects has helped me out tremendously. Anything from disconnecting electrical connectors to softening up vacuum hoses before going over a nipple. Especially connectors. Nothing pisses me off more than breaking a plastic tab! A recent project that got extensive use was removing my wiper motor for refreshing. I used the heat gun to warm up the posts the wiper arms connect to. They popped right off with little fuss. Also used heat again to soften up and remove hardened grease in the motor gear housing. Another job that was made much easier was targeting the plastic wiper arm bushings. With heat, the old bushing came off easier, and the new ones installed in a snap.

I'd say that's a justified purchase! Probably one of the straightest Comanches I've seen. It's been in good hands all these years. The trim level and color is unique.

The Treasury office where I'm at had never dealt with this before, not the clerk or the Trooper I was working with. After a few weeks into the process the clerk showed me the title snapshot with many different colored sticky notes stuck to it. It was almost laughable. The course of action ultimately came from Topeka (KS capital). I'm led to believe it was the path of least resistance. I was informed that it "wasn't possible" to update the vehicle info in KS databases. Yeah right.

There may not be a problem with accurate reading after all. Today I reinforced the ground, using the 8mm stud by the parking brake. Testing with a multimeter before and after gave the same results on both grounds. Continuity read 3.7 at the lowest. A friend thought I might have a 195° thermostat installed without my knowledge. He might be right because I've only owned my MJ for 1 year. After driving around I used an IR thermometer. The upper radiator hose was 183° and the thermostat housing was 193°. Temp gauge showed the same results with it reading about 195° IMPROVED GROUND

Thank you Cruiser. Will do tomorrow, result will be posted.

Ok, I see. Got that 110 by dividing 220 in half. I had a blind eye and didn't actually read the hotter numbers and their corresponding marks. Anyway Ωhm, this gauge suddenly worked differently after my "Intermittent Turn Signal" thread. You helped me out during that which involved removing the instrument cluster. Before that project it commonly read around the 220° mark. Now it won't go above 195° in the picture... except when shutting the engine off, and then it creeps up +1 mark. Surely the engine is running hotter than this? This seems way too cool.

RELATED TO THIS TOPIC Rather than creating a brand new temp gauge topic I'm hoping to get an answer on my own gauge issue. Below is a picture of my gauge with the engine at operating temp (upper radiator hose was hot). Just replaced my temp sender today and got no improvement. However, it was a STANDARD #TS-268 rather than the Mopar part indicated way above this thread. Here's some testing that I just did: • Grounded Sending Unit wire and the gauge pegged all the way to the right (key ON) • Disconnected the ground from the sending unit wire and the needle went full cold • 11.9V gets to the sending unit connector • With engine back at operating temp I measured resistance with CTS disconnected... got 165 ohm with the needle at this position: • Needle never goes above this 110° mark

Flipping sweet! Thanks for the clarification. Up until this point I've made only some quick armchair research on the matter. Glad to here this from a Comanche Club admin.

Yep, that's a AMC 20 axle. Word on the internet says that it's a weak design. I don't know what to believe, but I know the one on this truck hasn't broke yet.

1986 Jeep Comanche • 2.5L TBI • 5-Speed • 4x4 • Big Ton • AMC 20 Rear Axle • Long Bed My Comanche must have been made on a Friday, because there's two different VINs present. This truck has been flying under the radar since it landed on the shores of Kansas way back in 86. When it was due for insurance renewal I noticed inconsistencies across the board. After a full month of rigamarole, a patient Highway Patrolman got this truck on the straight-and-narrow with the state of Kansas. Back in the day this truck was driven all around checking oil wells on rough limestone country roads. 2nd owner used it like a truck, but had it garaged for the 20 years he had it. Under its current owner she remains garaged, and is slowly being taken to its next level. I personally go with the dash VIN, but Kansas has the engine bay VIN as their favorite When looking closely, another VIN plate is riveted underneath A full month of leg work, and all I got was this sticker: The previous owner got the seat reupholstered Redlinegoods.com made this custom shift boot. It looks great, but their stock Comanche sewing template is too long. In the future I may reorder this boot with 2 or 3 inches of height removed. In the shop for a much needed transmission overhaul A full-size spare snugs right in to replace the old doughnut 157,500 miles on this 2.5L

I pretty much only read the "headlines" in this thread, but understood the process quickly. Thanks to all the many well-shot pictures. My truck could benefit from a glass re-install, and this helps a lot. And that means maybe an MJ project down the road

Gross, that Ranger bed is real cringe to look at...

'Continuous' photography lighting makes an excellent alternative to the usual worklights on the market. This fixture has 3 switches controlling 5 fluorescent bulbs… 1 switch controls 1 bulb, the 2nd turns on 2 bulbs, and the 3rd illuminates the remaining. This way you can control your light output. As you can see, there's no harsh shadows, large area is lit up very evenly. Plus, everything is so CLEAR. I bought this online at B&H Photo Video. Manufacturer is FOVITEC. Sometimes they can be bought in pairs, I got my single light for only $80. I’ve used it in a very hot garage, and even after hours of every bulb being 'ON' the diffuser shroud only gets slightly warm. Overall the build quality is “pretty good” for the price. The tripod is sturdy and height adjustable. The tent/light fixture is balanced. So it won’t topple over even if you extend it really high.

I recognize this exact vehicle from earlier this year. The original owner was trying to get rid of it on a local classifieds site. I asked if I could buy only the blue center console, but it wasn't the correct shade. Afterwards I mentioned he list it on Comanche Club. Keep us posted on here, probably a cool lite truck after some care and parts.