White_Comanche

Interesting, I had a difference perspective when I was reviewing the listing photos. For 583k that truck looks to be in superb shape. Photos lie I know... but figured it would look far more lived-in by now. Guessing the real mileage would be roughly half of what the odo says.

hey, something seems fishy here...

This speedometer is listed wrong as a Tach on eBay. It has a Make Offer button, so price can be low-balled. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402251037593?hash=item5da807bb99:g:fgEAAOSwg-tjM0Bg&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HyidtcoS3xjooxA8a0vNp36aXD8ocQWLiszDicg8%2FU%2FJHy%2BIUkHzKqn6WtBRPqhYZ5p%2FZMdzGTXr6r6cM5xYDtqBzX5NYumHxqVlZ9qTFsjJoBsLzJfW3PL0R9cUfdcCPMMliWy9SBo4CB7lGw3aaPVqhid33giZCvrIzcP5cM4%2FNl4x5tTzueW9dS161FJ09oVf9lcs%2B8OeKi6Ulg87N8ci4dwAENKdtbKKXO2tRQpsucez%2FPRyq5mHZdlK3F%2F0r30dg18RD9hxeobSgIYWHjUlLB3STGz0pXmnpkh%2BFVM|tkp%3ABk9SR5bfobqTYg#shpCntId

This is a great idea and well executed. Pictures are excellent. I'd like to see something like this for us 2.5L guys.

This is great to know. One thing I'll add is be sure that all the odometer numbers L-I-N-E-U-P. I made the mistake of closing up my dash after a cluster swap while my numbers looked like this. While driving the first mile wheel turned in a screwy way. Ended up pulling the gauge out again to align all the numbers. Now the odometer works as it should. For Kable-Ease I'd recommend sealing the tube in a small plastic bag after use. My toolbox was a mess after it leaked. The lubricant is not easy to clean up either. The tube has one of those screw caps where it needs to be 110% tight for it to not leak.

Do you still have your old cluster? You might be able to swap out just the speedo/odo gauge. That assumes it has the same gauge face style and speedo connection type. If you don't, remove that gauge and see if it's binding somehow. Tip: you can "power" the speedometer gauge by using a cordless drill... find something suitable that fits into that back square hole and chuck it into a drill (I whittled down a short length of square plastic rod). You can listen for any clicks to pinpoint where the issue is. On the back of the gauge there's a tiny C-Clip holding the mile number drum together. Once that's removed all the numbers can be separated and adjusted. I'd say greasing your speedo cable will largely fix the needle bounce... maybe fiddle with the cable underneath to see if you can minimize any harsh curves. I recently used a product called Kable-Ease by AGS. It worked great, and is specifically designed for this application. Note: I used this on a brand new cable during my own cluster swap... and didn't just squeeze it down the hole. 1) I straightened the new cable out on clean hard flooring, 2) drew out the long metal line, 3) applied an even coat while wearing latex gloves.

Sweet. It would be awesome if one shows up sometime in the next several months! I currently have all the gauges with the old style look... including a tach. I believe it has a bad resistor. It's bloated and cracked open. It was nice to buy this NOS speedometer because the one that came in the cluster I purchased was in really bad shape—very gummed up and off-balance. If nothing shows up I'll make this into a late-year MJ project and try to find a suitable replacement resistor.

I ended up purchasing this NOS Odometer this weekend. Thanks for posting the listing on CC a few weeks ago. Otherwise it would've flew under my radar. I'm slowly piecing together a working full set of gauges with the old style face plate design. If a NOS Adjustable Tach gets listed on eBay I'll be tickled.

Might be able to help you out on this manual. The 2.5L quick-reference guide I made turned out well. I do catalog design work, and layout + typography.

I too, have a Clock REM. The first project it helped me out with was calibrating the tach in a 1990 cluster I installed. I've been monitoring the manifold pressure and coolant temp with it mostly. Seeing results in real-time while driving is cool. All the functions are a bit overwhelming at first, but piece by piece I'm able to grasp them in an entry level sort of way. One thing I'd recommend is going to his website and copy and paste all the REM functions pertaining to your 2.5 or 4.0. The folded pamphlet that came in my box (late 2022) was old, not updated, and organized poorly. His website has all updated copy. All the readings that these REMs display always cycles in order. What I did was write down each one in order... then I created my own cheat sheet from what was saved from his website. This process also helped me learn.

Looks like your 86 is in pretty decent shape. Think we'd all like to see more pictures!

Thanks a lot guys. I failed initially by trying to be smart and save time. Found out that only turning the motor shaft doesn't work! the entire assembly needs to be removed. Ended up doing exactly what pizzaman mentioned. Unbolted the crank and oriented everything back to park position. I used q-tips with bluetac to see how the wiper studs were arcing when the motor was turned on. Discovered I also needed to disconnect the bottom-drivers pivot bushing to get the passenger side to wipe in the correct way. Moral of the story: take note of the linkage orientation before diving to do a complete wiper motor overhaul.

I'm perplexed as to why my wiper arms park in this up position. I cannot adjust the arms in a horizontal way... if I do, they'll crash into the cowl. The swing of the arms have no issues. They go up and down making a proper arc. During the past month I spent lots of effort refurbishing my wiper motor, gear housing, bushings, etc. Also installed a working intermittent governor that Eaglescout sent me. Lo/Hi and intermittent speeds work great. But when switched to park (off) this is where they rest:

Since owning my MJ, I've been noticing how darn cool older trucks are. Lots of care went into beautifying this Chevy LUV. The owner found some knobby tires that really make the truck look rad.

Sold! Thanks Eagle for the wiper module.

Great thanks Eagle. If a newer ZJ wiper module can be used on an 86 Comanche I'll take it. Hopefully it checks out during testing.

I'd like to find an Intermittent Wiper Module in good overall shape that is known to work properly. Asking CC members first before getting one on ebay. Don't know what these things go for, but the few on ebay seem overpriced. Pretty sure mine is not operating right. When tapping on it with a finger, or physically rotating 180° it makes my wiper motor stutter and can sometimes move the wipers. Also low speed is not reliable.

You are describing much of the same wiper issues I've been working to resolve. These links below have guided me on which direction to go. What I'm doing is replacing the bushings, and also generally restoring the motor and gear housing. Fresh Yamaha Molyb grease will lube the gears. I found severe corrosion and very worn out bushings. Those two things can prevent the arms from parking. Soon I'll find out the results. Have not reinstalled it yet. When disconnecting the Intermittent Governor, and plugging both side connectors together, I'd say it's a good sign if only low/park work. https://comancheclub.com/topic/16246-wipers-won't-turn-off-wth/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/41809-no-windshield-wipers/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/61787-no-wipers/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/57353-comprehensive-wiper-modification-upgrade-maintenance/

Using a HEAT GUN on various MJ projects has helped me out tremendously. Anything from disconnecting electrical connectors to softening up vacuum hoses before going over a nipple. Especially connectors. Nothing pisses me off more than breaking a plastic tab! A recent project that got extensive use was removing my wiper motor for refreshing. I used the heat gun to warm up the posts the wiper arms connect to. They popped right off with little fuss. Also used heat again to soften up and remove hardened grease in the motor gear housing. Another job that was made much easier was targeting the plastic wiper arm bushings. With heat, the old bushing came off easier, and the new ones installed in a snap.

I'd say that's a justified purchase! Probably one of the straightest Comanches I've seen. It's been in good hands all these years. The trim level and color is unique.

The Treasury office where I'm at had never dealt with this before, not the clerk or the Trooper I was working with. After a few weeks into the process the clerk showed me the title snapshot with many different colored sticky notes stuck to it. It was almost laughable. The course of action ultimately came from Topeka (KS capital). I'm led to believe it was the path of least resistance. I was informed that it "wasn't possible" to update the vehicle info in KS databases. Yeah right.

There may not be a problem with accurate reading after all. Today I reinforced the ground, using the 8mm stud by the parking brake. Testing with a multimeter before and after gave the same results on both grounds. Continuity read 3.7 at the lowest. A friend thought I might have a 195° thermostat installed without my knowledge. He might be right because I've only owned my MJ for 1 year. After driving around I used an IR thermometer. The upper radiator hose was 183° and the thermostat housing was 193°. Temp gauge showed the same results with it reading about 195° IMPROVED GROUND

Thank you Cruiser. Will do tomorrow, result will be posted.

Ok, I see. Got that 110 by dividing 220 in half. I had a blind eye and didn't actually read the hotter numbers and their corresponding marks. Anyway Ωhm, this gauge suddenly worked differently after my "Intermittent Turn Signal" thread. You helped me out during that which involved removing the instrument cluster. Before that project it commonly read around the 220° mark. Now it won't go above 195° in the picture... except when shutting the engine off, and then it creeps up +1 mark. Surely the engine is running hotter than this? This seems way too cool.