White_Comanche

Yep it has AC, but I have never turned it on because the system needs work. Previous owner said he filled it for going somewhere on hot days, but the gas eventually leaks out. Always wondered what the performance is like with the AC on.

My 2.5L two-point-fives again. Between two weekends I properly replaced my battery cables, and also tidied up the wire in looms. Got my cable assemblies custom made locally. Very happy with the product. Definitely beats the price of 'premium' cable kits out there. It took a surprisingly amount of effort, but it was a fun MJ project. So far everything starts and runs fine. It responds quickly to revving up, and also letting off idle throttle. I'll take it on some drives soon, and will get back.

cute steering wheel extra grip

As I've been doing this project there has been a few routes that I've considered. 1) get Deka pre-terminated battery cables, or 2) buy the kit from JeepCables. After undoing the wire conduits and old fabric tape I discovered this past repair. From the Starter Relay, the wire gets spliced into (2) paths. One goes to the rear of the Alternator, and the other is plugged into a harness at the top of the Alternator. Is this soldered crimp something that I should address? Should this be two separate wires from the Starter Relay?

FOLLOW UP: Think I may know the reason why my REM suddenly "corrected itself" by showing accurate coolant temps. During the weekend I cleaned and re-seated my +positive battery cable. Not only did this solve my REM showing negative coolant values, but it also allowed my truck to start (I've had a nagging and random no-start issue). Soon, both my positive and negative cables will be replaced. Both are very old, and they also have exposed copper wires.

Yes you are correct. It took a bit of time, but I did find the cable bolted by the alternator. I've learned that 'seeing' into an engine bay is a learned skill.

A future project was to at least replace the positive cable. What I have looks factory. There is exposed copper wire on both battery terminals. Today I traced where each cable leads to. The positive was easy enough that it leads to the starter. For the negative cable it wasn't at all clear where it leads. Both the POS & NEG cables are in the same loom. I figured the negative terminates to the post by the dipstick. But the cable coming off the engine post heads somewhere backwards and I never saw it exiting from the loom. Am I missing something? Please let me know where the actual negative battery cable leads to.

My REM Clock suddenly has corrected itself. So far it continues to show positive and correct F° values. I didn't bother to disconnect the CTS and read resistance. Because I could see the F° values matching what the coolant gauge was showing as the engine was warming to operating temp. I'll continue to keep this post up, incase others come across a wonky temp reading on their REM.

Somehow this thing is starting and running again. Today I checked all of these things. Fuel flow inside the TB was strong. When checking spark afterwards I wasn't seeing anything from my new inline spark tester. However, beforehand I did drop the bulb housing by accident, or it may just be defective. CPS shows strong AC volts maxing out at .55 After plugging the CPS back together I decided to try starting anyway. Good news, there is spark. It starts and runs. Idle seems fine, and it responds well to idle throttling. No sputtering was present. The thing that I spent some time on was cleaning and reseating the copper wires of the positive battery terminal. There were times that the + terminal needed tweaking for it to start. Don't know if this is related. A few days ago when I had to get it towed, there WAS positive connection to the battery. It just wouldn't turn over. Will try a few more times this weekend to see it it continues to start. Have not driven it yet. Still not confident with it. Could it be my Ignition Coil or ICM is going south, or something else?

Thanks Ohm. I will do this test when my truck is operational again. Have a no-start issue that is plaguing it... I currently have an active post figuring that out. This test earlier was static with the truck just sitting in the garage unable to run. Garage air was roughly in the low 80s. Thinking that my REM may be corrupt.

For anyone who has a version of Nick's REM installed I'd like to know if you guys have noticed this. My coolant temp reading suddenly began show negative -F° values with a cold engine. As the engine warms up to operating temperature the reading doesn't correct itself. The most recent drive it topped out to only 75° when hot. The actual temp gauge appeared normal showing 195° to 200°. I contacted Nick through FB, and after some back and forth he though I may benefit from replacing my Coolant Temp Sensor. HOWEVER, the resistance readings of my CTS appeared accurate. Showing 2,400 to 2,500 with it being 'cold' in an 80°ish degree garage.

Read up on Cruiser's preferred method of testing the CPS with AC volts. After re-familiarizing that area of the 2.5 I was glad to see that harness is relatively easy to get to. I should be able to check these things out soon. Also, what is an easy method of checking fuel flow? Will I see or smell fuel spray when looking into the throttle body?

Hi again guys. I'd like some guidance on tackling a No-Start Issue that reared its ugly head again recently. My truck has had this issue since purchasing it from the previous owner in 2021. Thought that I had resolved the problem but it slowly resurfaced. 1986 2.5L MJ 5-Speed Manual Most notable symptoms that occurred BEFORE it began: • Driving: Sputtering during acceleration, and also when shifting upward • At Idle: sputtering when applying gas, and acted like it wanted to die when letting off • At idle: sometimes RPMs increased to, and sustained 2.5K - 3K for a few seconds (after working throttle for a while) Symptoms NOW: • NO Engine Starting (at all) Improvements that I've done up to this point (all within 2 years) Clean/Rebuilt Throttle Body - New Spark Plugs, Wires & Cap - New Vacuum Lines - Cleaned all or most Electrical Connectors - Reinforced & Cleaned All Grounds - New Oxygen Sensor - Transmission Professionally Rebuilt - Installed REM Clock My Evap Canister has been disconnected for several years - and all associated lines have been plugged. But please note that it never reeks of gas, and performance seems unaffected.

Oh... so now I understand why JolietJeep asked about a radio delete. Yes, this is the original door covering sans a speaker grill. Same thing on the drivers. The only speakers I have are what's inside the pillars behind the seat. I also don't have any behind those little speaker grills molded into the long lower dash piece that has the ashtray. Maybe because it's a 1986 that things are a bit odd.

Awesome, DM with the images. I’ll check back later today. No, my MJ is 1986 that does have the radio. I included the pic of the passenger door not only for eye candy, but also to relate to the window regulator.

I'm interested in tackling a future project. Does anyone have a Front Passenger Manual Window Regulator? I'd prefer it to be in great shape. Pictures of the assembly would be awesome as well.

Thanks for an alternate route. It's considerably less expensive, and smaller. I'll probably be on the lookout for one. Do you know the max lifting height on these? I've done some research, but most pages so far don't have any specs.

Guys, I just came across a very heavy duty scissor jack. Looks to be a quality product. In recent weeks I've been doing research on the best portable lifting solution for my MJ. I've considered all options (such as using a bottle jack + extensions). THIS might be the ticket. I like how an extension can be mounted for extra height. Below is one of the pictures they have in the gallery. Very reasonably priced too! https://gortech-usa.com/

Here's some very useful info for 2.5L guys. Throttle Body cleaning and ISA Adjustment procedure.

I got to see a Super Comanche at a car show called Thunder on the Plains in Kansas. My virgin white MJ was in the show as well. This truck was totally transformed, even with a custom bed topper. Wish I talked to him far longer than I did. If the owner of this rig is on Comanche Club give me a shout!

Sad to read of Cruiser's passing. He was a great help to me when I first got my 86 MJ a few years ago. I bought my Comanche with a known no-start issue that the past owner never bothered to fix. Cruiser gave me the drive to tackle this project head-on with zero experience working on vehicles. These days, my truck runs quite well thanks to the time, effort, and dedication that probably no mechanic would methodically do as I have.

Sure is a blast running around in a little truck that can haul ! Before being part of CC I've hauled off huge loads of random junk and rock destined for the landfill. Wish I documented those times because of how full it was loaded. But most recently, mine has been a real help on a summer front yard project.

https://www.nextechclassifieds.com/listings/2134189/ I'm familiar with this regional marketplace called Nextech Classifieds. Their listings don't last for long unless sellers keep posting their ads. Below was copied from the listing if it expires. More pictures are in the listing. Description Quote: Jeep commanche 600$ Straight/inline six cylinder Repainted at one time , needs some tlc . Engine start and runs , no smoke . Either the clutch or throw out bearing is bad . Need to get rid the jeep, don't have time to fix it . Any question message me on here or text 785 643 2 zero 1 2 I will type up a bill of sale , no title

Thanks a lot for the offer. I appreciate the help from you guys. Looking forward to when your PS bracket upgrade tutorial is finished!

I'm an 86 2.5L guy! I'd like to see a write-up on this bracket upgrade when you can SoCalManche. Was not aware of this, thanks Eagle. It took quite awhile to figure out how to change and adjust a new belt for a future project. Seemingly every manual out there glosses over 1986 trucks in regards to replacing drive belts.