White_Comanche

Did some searching but did not come up with exact matches. Use the term 'Overhead Sound Bar' in eBay and other places. This grill apparently is for a Jeep Cherokee XJ from 98-01, and maybe matches what's in your picture. eBay has lots of used overhead sound bars available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404797425493?_skw=overhead+sound+bar&itmmeta=01JWF2306CFW0288JMB5814YBR&hash=item5e3fce8755%3Ag%3AWqMAAOSwA1xlzA3f&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dtl1oIRHfNKLj8RZ9a9tqc04Vq3e9ECliIEqpqAR8BAoK5%2Bj8PrSTGmA5eG%2FjwXEyzHaJPEOv%2FO%2B6ppkimW8kfz1Js6e7cThafHomik7Zp5V%2FVOkRxlBrbU22OVYvKxwEK3NqzWn%2FNKY8yKfDqyeRQv9x3WiznYWocsTICONbo61fw9bjUiN3zGtTXL6Qr%2B%2BiaOPVXojPNlED5262BJNIz1QKN8czO9Fedk5OwA2e%2BwuvZHaTcR0IOtPi%2B3kDZgj8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yDjOLjZQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

Suppose I'm also a 'medium blue'. I drive an 86, so the blue definitely is not bright. I also would like a set of these please.

Bet if you thought about producing these, they would go like hot cakes on here.

Would small screw extractors like this work? Full disclosure, I have not read every reply in depth, however I have read your first post a few times. Depending on how accessible your remaining thread is, and the size, I think something like this might work. Perhaps you won't need to do the Helicoil thing with this. https://centurydrill.com/products/damaged-screw-remover-4-pc-set-0-1-2-3-spiral-style/

The process took some time, but I finally compiled all the tools to create an H1 scissor jack solution for my Jeep. Everything fits inside a 24" Husky bag. My goal was to create a tool kit that had flexibility without anything superfluous. This scissor jack functions great to accommodate a floor jack, or even as a very good alternative I've found out. It has great lifting height and the flat plate is very large to put some wood underneath if needed. Operation can be motorized as well. I have this nestled behind the passenger seat in my MJ. Even though there is very little cab space, there is actually plenty of room for this back there. But before lifting the bag, I'd recommend removing all the tools first because it's rather heavy. The saddle adapter was bought from 911 Motorsports. I had to source a spacer, however. The H1 scissor jack pin is 1-1/8", but the ID of the saddle adapter is 1.5". My friend at work lent his metalworking skills to make a finished piece. He did very nice lathe and welding work! There is not a situation that this combination cannot handle. Kit Includes: • 5/8" Hook Drive • 5/8" Wrench • 20" 1/2" Drive Extension • 1/2" Drive 5/8" Socket • 1/2" Square to 5/8" Hex Drive Adapter • 1/2" Drive 18" Ratcheting Breaker Bar w/ 13/16" Impact Socket

It is a superb looking truck. I too would seriously consider this, if everything aligned. It's an interesting product: Modular to an extreme. I like how the body and finish is designed with wrapping in mind. Clever, actually. This could be the first EV for many. Probably would be a badass runabout.

I hope that the SLATE is very successful, and severely disrupts the momentum of massive, tech-heavy vehicles being produced these days. I'm seeing quite a few Ford Mavericks on the road... even in my small Kansas town. Hope this jump-starts more inexpensive small new trucks being offered. Gas engines please!

Appreciate you suggesting the optimum scissor jack. It took a while, but I finally was able to get one. The planetary gear looks to make raising loads easy. This one is mine:

This is listed in my local Nextech Classifieds. A hunting wagon that looks to be in great shape. Perhaps the usual kinds of easy work we do, along with some TLC will get this one in better shape. https://www.nextechclassifieds.com/listings/2199630/ Description 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 159,000 miles, 4 wheel drive. Has the straight 6 4.0 engine. Runs and drives but does have some minor issues. Break lights don't work, radio don't work, I bought it for a hunting rig but it isn't quite big enough for me. Asking $3000OBO can text 78five 2 seven 5 three 5 one zero or message me here. Title in hand, Would considered trades of other vehicles or firearms.

Guys, I get real sic with cooking. Should probably post on here more. This is simply melted motz with sautéed pinto beans and peppers on top. Pickled red onion gives the acid. ...it can't be seen well, but there's big slices of chicken breast in the middle :) 1 2

Spotted some Over Compensation out in the wild today.

Great information. Appreciate you looking up the numbers in your books. Spent the afternoon on a side MJ project, but wanted to put an eye on my clutch cylinder. I was presuming all along that mine was original, but clearly it's aftermarket. Looks like some knucklehead in the past used a pair of pliers to remove and tighten this fitting... instead of a flare nut wrench. Thankfully there's just enough meat left that it can be turned with the proper wrench. Hopefully. I'll get a cylinder ordered and will complete this project sometime soon.

I'm torn between the two myself, but that XJ/MJ combo sounds logical. If my mind doesn't change I'm leaning towards the #53001163. The guy at the dealership said that is the one he would go for. Question: the NOS I've found never shows the plastic reservoir cup... always just the screw cap. Would I use my current cup on the new one? https://hkresale.com/products/mopar-53001163-master-cylinder-for-brakes-genuine-oem-new-nos-made-by-girling-7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/285386860132

Alright, thanks Eagle. Good to know it doesn't matter which one.

I've decided to replace my Clutch Cylinder with a NOS part in the future. I'd like to know which part number to go with... or will both of these work: While searching Mopar Parts Giant with my truck — 1986 Jeep Comanche 2.5L — it comes up with #52000068. Link is down below. However, when I called up my local Chrysler dealership, they came up with #53001163 when they entered the last 8 digits of my VIN. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-cylinder-master-clutch-hyd~52000068.html?vin=&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&year=1986&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

Guys, no I have not taken apart my Master Cylinder. It probably hasn't been touched in a very long time. I'm a bit apprehensive of bleeding hydraulic fluid because I've not done anything like that before. Would I be able to remove the internal components of the cylinder (spring, plunger, misc bits) from the interior? The 1989 FSM has a section labeled Clutch Cylinder Overhaul, and gives a fairly detailed step by step. Wondering if this would be worth the time, or just go full-hog and purchase an entirely new master cylinder. That would obviously require bleeding, however.

I'd like to know what I'm up against in the future, because I may tackle this project if what I have could become more of an issue. I have noticed that sometimes my clutch pedal feels a bit rough (not entirely smooth) when pressing down on it. To remedy this, my solution has been squirting on some lube onto the clutch Push Rod at the Dust Boot. This stop-gap has worked fairly well. One application was effective for most of the summer. Just this past weekend I got my pickup out, and had to apply again. The pedal was only smooth for about a day (maybe because it's now cold and winter). All the metal moving parts, and the spring of the clutch pedal assembly are thoroughly lubed as well. Transmission is A-OK, and was recently rebuilt a few years ago. There is no "chattering" going on either... just a clutch pedal with subtle, but noticeable roughness. • 1986 2.5L 5-Speed

Sounds great, thank you.

When taking it out I did see how these things are snap-fitted together. If you have an entire assembly that is in good shape, with a healthy spring I’ll take it… but I’d also consider a handle cup that is all intact.

I'd like to purchase a Drivers Side Door Opener from someone who has one in this configuration and condition (chrome intact, no dents in the black plastic square). The spring in mine broke, and am getting annoyed by the handle flopping around.

Got the MJ out to represent DJT this weekend. Real great Trump Train we had. Stretched out for many blocks while snaking around town. She performed well. Definitely got its clutch exercised! (ultra-slow, many stops kind of driving)

If you can find a nice survivor truck in good mechanical condition... and appearance - then you'll likely be sitting pretty for a while. As a success story, I purchased my MJ with about the same level experience of working on vehicles as a girl :) As with many others on here, you may actually fall in L-o-v-e with your truck. Doing projects on mine has been a real joy. The collective knowledge base on CC is in your favor.

+1 in Kansas

Recently, I was able to get my Jeep out and daily-drive it for a straight week. It drives very well and starts quickly every time. Replacing the battery cables looks to have been the last weakest link for the no-start issue that plagued my truck. Until next time, thank you.

Gosh, I hope you'll be happy... by overlooking this major defect.