White_Comanche

Yes, how could I have made that mistake? Would not trust Crown Automotive on such an integral part.

Looks fantastic! Really wouldn't be worried about scratching it... Revealing the cost from your local area helps out too. Have been curious about that and the end result. I have an annoying doof on mine as well. Excluding the cost of powder coating, paying a shop beats what you can find custom on eBay. Some of the ones on eBay look cool, but the price doesn't. KEYPARTS & CROWN SHOULD TAKE NOTE ON MJ BUMPERS.

Thank you! This time I used a new product called PowerPlastic 4Lights by Mothers. Along with foam applicator pads, tape and elbow grease. I have needed to do this 2 or 3 times per year. This product is supposed to provide UV protection. Prior to this I just used a scratch remover intended for paint, and the lenses for sure yellowed in a few months. We'll see how they keep up now.

INTRODUCING A NEW COMMUNITY TOPIC Starting out, I gave my 2002 Honda CRV EX some much needed TLC. Spent most of the day cleaning her up. Thoroughly vacuuming, washing, detailing, etc. This time I rejuvenated all the black plastic with the torch method. All plastic that is now black used to be either light grey or almost white. Head light lenses were also restored with hand buffing. That's just bare black plastic... no protectant applied. It's a night and day difference.

Yes, found out there's not much working room. A bit awkward really. A 10mm box end fits over that valve. I thought about getting something like this to help bleed the system. It's a brake bleeder wrench with a tube attached. There's a few styles of these around. Both with internal and external check valves. They create a positive seal apparently. A wrench like this could work in that tight space. I'm thinking of buying a NOS Mopar slave to keep things OEM. When looking at that bleeder valve it seems like it's just a threaded fitting. Is it simply loosening up the fitting until fluid begins to flow? I may ask about lowering the transmission in the future. I haven't done something like that before.

@eaglescout526 Initially, I had plans only to replace my clutch cylinder. But I know there's a leak somewhere, because I need to top off the reservoir every once in a while. Later this summer I plan to replace my entire clutch hydraulic system (clutch master, slave cylinder & the hydraulic line that connects the two). Got under the vehicle today and got a visual on everything. Think I should be able to tackle this. I own an official M.R. 277 manual for this 1986. I'm curious of what the manual says is the correct way of bleeding. Quote from the book is below: BLEEDING PROCEDURE • (raise vehicle and fill reservoir) • Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch cover housing and remove the push rod • Compress the slave cylinder plunger using tool J-24420-A or equivalent • (after this do the standard half-filled bottle bleeding procedure) Do I need to have the slave removed and somehow compressed to properly bleed the system... or can I have the part installed beforehand?

Hey man, we're interested in that jack setup you have! Shoot some photos when you got time.

YES, keep us up with your finds.

Did some searching but did not come up with exact matches. Use the term 'Overhead Sound Bar' in eBay and other places. This grill apparently is for a Jeep Cherokee XJ from 98-01, and maybe matches what's in your picture. eBay has lots of used overhead sound bars available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404797425493?_skw=overhead+sound+bar&itmmeta=01JWF2306CFW0288JMB5814YBR&hash=item5e3fce8755%3Ag%3AWqMAAOSwA1xlzA3f&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dtl1oIRHfNKLj8RZ9a9tqc04Vq3e9ECliIEqpqAR8BAoK5%2Bj8PrSTGmA5eG%2FjwXEyzHaJPEOv%2FO%2B6ppkimW8kfz1Js6e7cThafHomik7Zp5V%2FVOkRxlBrbU22OVYvKxwEK3NqzWn%2FNKY8yKfDqyeRQv9x3WiznYWocsTICONbo61fw9bjUiN3zGtTXL6Qr%2B%2BiaOPVXojPNlED5262BJNIz1QKN8czO9Fedk5OwA2e%2BwuvZHaTcR0IOtPi%2B3kDZgj8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yDjOLjZQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

Suppose I'm also a 'medium blue'. I drive an 86, so the blue definitely is not bright. I also would like a set of these please.

Bet if you thought about producing these, they would go like hot cakes on here.

Would small screw extractors like this work? Full disclosure, I have not read every reply in depth, however I have read your first post a few times. Depending on how accessible your remaining thread is, and the size, I think something like this might work. Perhaps you won't need to do the Helicoil thing with this. https://centurydrill.com/products/damaged-screw-remover-4-pc-set-0-1-2-3-spiral-style/

The process took some time, but I finally compiled all the tools to create an H1 scissor jack solution for my Jeep. Everything fits inside a 24" Husky bag. My goal was to create a tool kit that had flexibility without anything superfluous. This scissor jack functions great to accommodate a floor jack, or even as a very good alternative I've found out. It has great lifting height and the flat plate is very large to put some wood underneath if needed. Operation can be motorized as well. I have this nestled behind the passenger seat in my MJ. Even though there is very little cab space, there is actually plenty of room for this back there. But before lifting the bag, I'd recommend removing all the tools first because it's rather heavy. The saddle adapter was bought from 911 Motorsports. I had to source a spacer, however. The H1 scissor jack pin is 1-1/8", but the ID of the saddle adapter is 1.5". My friend at work lent his metalworking skills to make a finished piece. He did very nice lathe and welding work! There is not a situation that this combination cannot handle. Kit Includes: • 5/8" Hook Drive • 5/8" Wrench • 20" 1/2" Drive Extension • 1/2" Drive 5/8" Socket • 1/2" Square to 5/8" Hex Drive Adapter • 1/2" Drive 18" Ratcheting Breaker Bar w/ 13/16" Impact Socket

It is a superb looking truck. I too would seriously consider this, if everything aligned. It's an interesting product: Modular to an extreme. I like how the body and finish is designed with wrapping in mind. Clever, actually. This could be the first EV for many. Probably would be a badass runabout.

I hope that the SLATE is very successful, and severely disrupts the momentum of massive, tech-heavy vehicles being produced these days. I'm seeing quite a few Ford Mavericks on the road... even in my small Kansas town. Hope this jump-starts more inexpensive small new trucks being offered. Gas engines please!

Appreciate you suggesting the optimum scissor jack. It took a while, but I finally was able to get one. The planetary gear looks to make raising loads easy. This one is mine:

This is listed in my local Nextech Classifieds. A hunting wagon that looks to be in great shape. Perhaps the usual kinds of easy work we do, along with some TLC will get this one in better shape. https://www.nextechclassifieds.com/listings/2199630/ Description 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 159,000 miles, 4 wheel drive. Has the straight 6 4.0 engine. Runs and drives but does have some minor issues. Break lights don't work, radio don't work, I bought it for a hunting rig but it isn't quite big enough for me. Asking $3000OBO can text 78five 2 seven 5 three 5 one zero or message me here. Title in hand, Would considered trades of other vehicles or firearms.

Guys, I get real sic with cooking. Should probably post on here more. This is simply melted motz with sautéed pinto beans and peppers on top. Pickled red onion gives the acid. ...it can't be seen well, but there's big slices of chicken breast in the middle :) 1 2

Spotted some Over Compensation out in the wild today.

Great information. Appreciate you looking up the numbers in your books. Spent the afternoon on a side MJ project, but wanted to put an eye on my clutch cylinder. I was presuming all along that mine was original, but clearly it's aftermarket. Looks like some knucklehead in the past used a pair of pliers to remove and tighten this fitting... instead of a flare nut wrench. Thankfully there's just enough meat left that it can be turned with the proper wrench. Hopefully. I'll get a cylinder ordered and will complete this project sometime soon.

I'm torn between the two myself, but that XJ/MJ combo sounds logical. If my mind doesn't change I'm leaning towards the #53001163. The guy at the dealership said that is the one he would go for. Question: the NOS I've found never shows the plastic reservoir cup... always just the screw cap. Would I use my current cup on the new one? https://hkresale.com/products/mopar-53001163-master-cylinder-for-brakes-genuine-oem-new-nos-made-by-girling-7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/285386860132

Alright, thanks Eagle. Good to know it doesn't matter which one.

I've decided to replace my Clutch Cylinder with a NOS part in the future. I'd like to know which part number to go with... or will both of these work: While searching Mopar Parts Giant with my truck — 1986 Jeep Comanche 2.5L — it comes up with #52000068. Link is down below. However, when I called up my local Chrysler dealership, they came up with #53001163 when they entered the last 8 digits of my VIN. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-cylinder-master-clutch-hyd~52000068.html?vin=&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&year=1986&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

Guys, no I have not taken apart my Master Cylinder. It probably hasn't been touched in a very long time. I'm a bit apprehensive of bleeding hydraulic fluid because I've not done anything like that before. Would I be able to remove the internal components of the cylinder (spring, plunger, misc bits) from the interior? The 1989 FSM has a section labeled Clutch Cylinder Overhaul, and gives a fairly detailed step by step. Wondering if this would be worth the time, or just go full-hog and purchase an entirely new master cylinder. That would obviously require bleeding, however.

I'd like to know what I'm up against in the future, because I may tackle this project if what I have could become more of an issue. I have noticed that sometimes my clutch pedal feels a bit rough (not entirely smooth) when pressing down on it. To remedy this, my solution has been squirting on some lube onto the clutch Push Rod at the Dust Boot. This stop-gap has worked fairly well. One application was effective for most of the summer. Just this past weekend I got my pickup out, and had to apply again. The pedal was only smooth for about a day (maybe because it's now cold and winter). All the metal moving parts, and the spring of the clutch pedal assembly are thoroughly lubed as well. Transmission is A-OK, and was recently rebuilt a few years ago. There is no "chattering" going on either... just a clutch pedal with subtle, but noticeable roughness. • 1986 2.5L 5-Speed