scaleless

$2.60 It was fun while it lasted but I'll take my $1.70 gas back now thanks

Red flags? Well, I don't think there's anything too terrible that can't be fixed with a little elbow grease. I'd say the first thing to look for is floorplan rust. Water inevitably gets into the cab through firewall seals and leaky sliding windows and rots out the floor even if the carpet looks great. Take a look at the seat brackets - these will usually show some significant rust with bad leaks. Slide under the truck and look for holes. Lightly tap the floor with a hammer and listen for crunching - undercoating could be hiding the damage. Aside from that, just expect to have to work on the truck. Little things will pop up here and there. The forum can help you with those.

^ this guy revives dead threads!

How far down are you coming? I can probably pull that bed from the Comanche in New Orleans and get it to you.

You can absolutely open the heater core side without removing the AC lines, but it will be very tight. You can even pull the evaporator without disconnecting it, if you wanted to for some reason. As for the logistics of getting the screws out with such tight clearance? Well, don't ask me. It doesn't hurt to pull the dash first, loosen up the AC components to get some slack, and see how far you can get into opening the box before disconnecting the AC lines if you have to. All the screws are on the top. If you can get the box angled towards you 45 degrees, it should be trivial. There are two screws retaining the core. See this image for reference:

So the switch clicks into place firmly and disengages cleanly, too, when going right? Or does it not click into place at all? If it physically works like norml, I would try replacing the flasher module since it's only a dollar or so. That's something I think you can parts-cannon without remorse

Factory service manual. The ICM generates a PWM signal which is filtered to a constant voltage by the tachometer. The signal gets to the guage cluster regardless of if it has a tach or not. The tach is pulled towards zero by a permanent magnet, and the voltage from the ICM energizes an electromagnet that pulls the needle away from zero. The balance between the permanent magnet and the electromagnet is what controls the needle position.

It's really easy to electroplate them back into a shiny, like-new condition! That would be a fun weekend project.

I should be arrested for abusing Alumi-Blast Got some 746s coming in the mail Monday. I got a new tank, sender, and pump ready to go in the meantime. I forgot to take a picture of the nightmare on the truck right now, but a previous owner rigged in a toggle switch-activated inline pump outside the tank because the in-tank pump wasn't working, apparently. Looks like a disaster.

Sorry if I'm a party pooper, but I think the pics you shared of it as it is right now look way better than the lifted one with XJ wheels!

I would first rent a fuel pressure guage from your local parts store and verify you have proper pressure, since you say you're not sure if the pump is running properly. Another thing is to check for vacuum leaks. A significant leak would cause it to die while idling. Then if you can rule out fuel and a vacuum leak, I would look at the IAC valve.

Ryobi is poop. All my tools are Milwaukee... ALL of them. The big chonker 1/2" impact with a high output battery will snap the head off anything. I use their cheap(er) 12v impact that I got for Christmas 4 years ago every day for work cranking down on bolts all day and while the trigger has gotten loose, it's still going strong.

I kinda like it. It could be way worse, of course. Hopefully they can nab a good bit of the large SUV market.

There was a company making them before. I can't recall who, though, so hopefully someone else has a link.

Here is a pic with the lower dash off. Right where the tube goes behind the metal dash support is a molded tube - part of the dash - that the flexible tube fits around. It has teeth things to hold it on.

Yeah, real Marchals will blow china crap out of the water, both performance- and coolness-wise

My 89 manual Cherokee has it, but it's a horizontal and smaller. The plug didn't fit the hole in my 87. I have an 88 Auto, too - I'll check that out when I can to see what the hole looks like. but your auto must have a hole - that's where the TCU wires go through!

Does it return all the way to the zero position when you shut it off?

If it starts with starting fluid, then fuel. If not, if it has no spark I would scrutinize the CPS. If it has a weak spark, I would look for burning wires, partially blown fusible links, and an overheating ignition coil.

Those documents are very cool!

I was told a while back that Jesser's Classic Keys bough a whole storage unit full of AMC and Chrysler Jeep blanks so I think they'll be trickling them out for a long time, albeit at a pretty steep price. It'll be very tight, but after a while they usually wear together and work well once the sharp edges on the new key smoothen up. Make sure to lubricate the lock cylinder with some dry lock lubricant.

You should be able to swap the guage face onto a working fuel guage from the red cluster. I imagine if you take the needle off and the two screws holding it on, it would pop right off, then just swap the guage into the blue cluster.

Do you still have it? I'll buy it off you, if you do.

Haha, how is that even possible? It can really only go in one way, otherwise you can see it binding up and scraping long before it's all bolted in!

Yep! Just has the Chrysler logo. Although ally sources say the Chrysler keys were used 88-92 as soon as Chrysler bought AMC out, so I don't Know why these are listed the way they are. Also they were in stock when I posted them, so I would bet that OP snagged them haha