derf

Solder won't hold up compared to a crimp.

I've been at an airfield where the plane has been parked. It's pretty cool.

Definitely a turbodiesel short bed to go wheeling with. Probably with an automatic, sport bar, bucket seats, and a bunch of other goodies. I'd swap in late 70s F150 axles with a spring over and run 35-37" tires. Also a metric ton long bed diesel with the 5 speed (if available) and bucket seats to be a daily driver/working truck.

People who know scandinavian cuisine will get this immediately. If you don't know about lutefisk, google it.

There are valves inside the shocks that control how firm or stiff they are in both compression and rebound. Different types of shocks have different size valves to give you a firmer or softer ride. Some are even adjustable so you can dial up or down how stiff the shock is by just turning a knob on the outside of the shock.

You posted as I was typing. It's not hard to find some kind of ferrule that you can crimp on with a crimping tool. Getting them off is easy if you don't mind making the cable a little shorter. Otherwise, you could cut off the existing ferrule and crimp a new one on.

Are you talking about the steel cable inside the sleeve from the cruise unit to the throttle body? The one that pulls the throttle open?

The YJ perches are an inch to inch and a half narrower.

I'd be interested in the button cover.

Not much. It would be rare to find someone who is willing to give much more than $20 a wheel unless they were in mint condition

The half ton market has been taken over by the suburbanites and as a result they are less able to function as a working truck. You still can get a pretty bare bones "work truck" in the 3/4 and 1 ton lines that are for the most part good trucks to use around the farm. There is very little in the way of fancy gadgets inside the cab of these base model trucks. Seats, a steering wheel, probably a radio, heater and AC controls, and that's about it. We are never going to get away from computerized engines and transmissions. And at this point, there really is no need to. It's stupid easy to get a scan tool to tell you what code the computer is throwing and a quick search to find out what it means. These systems have been in place for over 20 years. The only reason not to know how to deal with them comes down to refusal to learn. Having grown up with carburetors and having watched the evolution of fuel injection over the last 40 years, I'd take a modern truck over an old one any time. Even if you compare new vs new, I'll take the modern truck. Reliability, driveability, fuel economy, power, everything is better with modern trucks. You don't have to constantly tinker with a carburetor going out of adjustment. So many older engines were whipped when you hit only 100,000 miles. I remember having to warm up the engine before you could drive anywhere in the winter. Now you just get in and go. And sure, we're not getting 100 MPG, but high teens is a vast improvement over the maybe 10 MPG you get in an old truck. Then there's the fact that modern small blocks are making as much torque as the big blocks of the 70s. All while spewing out a bunch less noxious crap out of the tailpipe. This hummer is a stupid truck designed for people who want flash. And they'll sell out of them because there's a market segment that wants them. I don't blame GM for making it because they're going to make a ton of money off them and that's what they're in business for. But beyond that, they're developing technology that will make it into other vehicles over time, much like new features show up in Cadillacs first and then trickle down to the other brands. I also get the desire for a lot of people who want a work truck to do work. Makes sense. That's what trucks are for. But at some point, there are just some people who have the attitude that change is bad and that we shouldn't change anything because "CHANGE BAD!!!". Trouble is, the world is changing whether they like it or not and they're just leaving themselves behind.

Land Rover and Jeep have been doing it for a while. Even the Ram trucks have adjustable air suspension. So that feature isn't exactly new. Though on a truck that expensive, bling like that is expected.

A coyote would have been a better swap candidate for a Bronco.

4 tons sounds about right.

I hate to think about how heavy that thing is to have enough battery power for 350 miles.

* NV3550 out of an early 2000's TJ. Pretty much on par with the AX15. * NSG370 out of a 2005-06 TJ. It's a "good enough" transmission with one extra gear over the AX15. I'd still prefer the AX15 or NV3550 as they are stronger and easier to find parts for. Don't get one from a 2007+ JK. It has a different bellhousing that's not compatible with the 4.0 and it's part of the transmission so you can't adapt it. * Peugeot BA 10/5 out of an 87-89 XJ/MJ/YJ. I would avoid this transmission. Some people have had good luck with it but it's really a light duty transmission. * Borg Warner T5 out of an 80's CJ7/CJ8. It works fine and bolts to the 4.0 but it's a lighter duty transmission than the AX15. It's not as bad as the Peugeot but it's not the strongest. The only other alternatives are to adapt something else from another truck. There are lots of options to find adapter bellhousings that let you bolt up transmissions from full size trucks. But then you also have to deal with the transfer case which may or may not be easy. And then you have driveshafts to deal with as well. Best bet is to be patient and search harder for an AX15. They do pop up from time to time. If you're willing to pay shipping, you can find one somewhere in the country.

With a starting price of $112K, it's targeted at people with more dollars than sense.

I'm doing an AW4 swap anyway so it's a bit of a moot point. I was just curious. I learned to drive a stick shift in an 88 Yugo. I almost launched the thing into the side of a building because it also did not have the clutch switch. I've never done that since.

Good to know. Thanks.

I was working on getting my MJ running. I figured out that I don't have a clutch safety switch in the ignition circuit. So I can hit the starter with it in gear. I've driven a few vehicles that didn't have one at all before so I know it's not always installed. Should there be one on my 87? Or did a previous owner just cut out the circuit and bypass it?

It might be a Toyota axle.

When you can describe some of the population of your state as "gun toting", discretion is the wise option.