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Until the O ring gives up and you need to get a T60 torx on the adapter bolt with enough leverage to break the red locktite free. Oh, and there isn't enough space to get a socket with a breaker bar on it. You have to disassemble the T60 socket, put a long box end wrench on that, and then add a breaker bar over the end of the wrench.

I had a pretty righteous mullet when I was in high school and college. I remember those middle age women.

Welcome. Look for cruiser's mostly renix tips and start working through the list as time and budget allows.

They're both in the same class. Almost the same strength if you have the 29 spline 8.25. upgrading a 27 spline is a matter of swapping shafts and the differential.

They are a cheap way to get traction. They vary in how much you notice them in your Jeep. They do give you more traction and are a cheap way to improve off road driving capabilities. If you drive on icy roads at all, they are not good. They do more harm than good, especially in the front. For a snow/ice driver, I'd prefer an open differential over any automatic locker. I prefer the TrueTracs in my XJ (with the full time capable NP242) for a snow/ice capable driver. I had E-Lockers in my JK and it was great in the snow as well. Leaving the lockers unlocked until you need them is an option I am a big fan of. But they're not cheap. But buy once, cry once applies.

I have 265/75R16 (32s) with 4.56s in my XJ with the 4.0/AW4. It's just about perfect up here at altitude. We have a lot of hills around here and I wheel it up in the mountains. It's a good balance.

There's a sweet spot for an engine in a given vehicle. It has to produce enough torque to move the vehicle down the road. Torque is affected by gearing, both in the transmission and the axle. The size of the tire affects the torque and how it's applied to the ground. Obviously, high RPMs will reduce mileage. But dropping the RPMs too low can also reduce mileage. With tall gears (lower numbers) the engine has to produce more torque to move the vehicle. That means the engine is doing more work and that means it's consuming more fuel. There's basically a sweet spot. An ideal RPM range where the engine is providing enough torque through the transmission and gears to move the vehicle. Above or below that, the MPGs drop off. The manufacturers choose gearsets for various reasons. One of the chief concerns is mileage on the EPA test loop. This is why the XJ/MJ has 3.55s with the 4.0 auto instead of 3.73s or 4.10s. It's why the XJ/MJ 4.0 manual came with 3.07 gears instead of 3.31 or 3.55s. But the 2.5 manual and auto both came with much shorter (higher number) gears. It's because that engine produces less power and needs the torque multiplication of shorter gears in order to meet performance expectations. That's also why it doesn't get dramatically better mileage than a 4.0. A little bit, maybe.

AW4

It's in the mid to high teens depending on city/highway mix.

Oh, and I have 4.56 gears with the automatic and 32" tires in my XJ. It's a good combination. I might do 4.10s with the manual and it would probably be ok.

Most shops won't install parts you bring them. The ones that do are likely to not warranty the work since they can't be guaranteed that your parts are good. Shops will usually give you a good package deal for parts and labor. And since they warranty the work, they use good parts you can trust.

1. Find a good reputable shop. 2. Drop off Jeep. 3. Go back, pick up Jeep. Or: 1. Buy a bunch of tools and parts. (Probably more expensive than above) 2. Watch a ton of videos and learn how to do the meticulous work. 3. Spend a couple days doing the labor to set up the gears.

Whiskey Single malt or blended?

Leno Bacon or sausage?

I concur that it's Megadeth. Bottle in front of me or frontal lobotomy?

Trouble with tribbles Van Halen. David Lee Roth or Sammy Hagar?

Time to start the rebuilding of the basement for me. If you remember, I had some sewer issues... I started tearing out the panelling and drywall that has been contaminated by poo water. I also picked up a few sheets of new drywall to replace it. The plan is to take down all of the panelling and retexture the drywall when its all done.

3.07 with 205/75R15 = 31 3.07 with 225/75R15 = 30 3.55 with 205/75R15 = 36 3.55 with 225/75R15 = 34 This could possibly vary depending on the exact tire you get as tires aren't exactly the same. But an average sampling of the tire sizes pops out those results.

Check me if I'm wrong but would this work for you to build an adapter with 100% new parts? https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/7-position-metri-pack-480-150-series-connector-kit/ You'd want to make sure you have the right crimping tool for the metripack connectors (I can dig up the ones I have). But I think this would let you make as many as you want.

The "idiot light" senders are really an Off/On type sender. When they reach a set temperature or pressure, the contact is made and the light comes on. They're really "all or nothing" senders. That's why they don't work with the gauges. The gauge senders vary resistance so that the gauge needle moves.

Waffles Sweet or savory?

Yeah, I'm older. Not sure if I'm any wiser. I'd take an omelet. Ham,sausage, bacon, and cheddar please. Hold the hash browns. Big city or small town?

The AMC V8 is a bigger engine and it would be a tight squeeze. And there is only slightly more aftermarket for it over the 4.7 these days. It would easily bolt to an AW4 or AX15 since it shares the bellhousing with the 4.0 so that would be easier.

It's still not a good idea. If you're good with a welder and can fabricate everything you'll need, along with being a whiz with adapting all of the integrated electronics, you might make it work. Take lots of pictures.

Congrats. Now get a job.