derf

Looks good. Glad someone finally got some use out of those things.

One of the best phrases in the English language: Throttle induced oversteer

Roughly the same more or less. They're both 1/2 ton truck axles. The Chrysler 8.25 is in the same general league.

Or head down to the Circle K and hop in the phone booth.

I'd agree. A stroker only makes sense when you're already rebuilding the engine. Especially if you're doing an over bore and have to buy pistons anyway. The incremental cost for the crank and the right pistons is small compared to the rest of the rebuild. But if you have an already good engine, a stroker is a big expense. I am planning an inexpensive stroker build when it's time for me to rebuild the engine. And that's on the near horizon for my XJ as I'm getting a rod knock. But my MJ engine is running fine so I'm going to leave it for a while.

Definitely YJ But CJ6 for sure. FC150 or FC170?

Sunshine. All day long. (pun intended) Locker or limited slip?

They would probably work better if the output from them was hooked up to something.

There's a few specialty tools you'll need and it's precision work that requires some effort. It's not rocket surgery but you probably want a coach your first time through it.

If you do it right it will be plenty reliable. A lot of people try to run too much camshaft on stock springs and have valvetrain issues as a result. Mostly it's having more than 0.500" lift. There's a forum that doesn't get much traffic any more. https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/ They have some good info though.

One. Two wasn't anywhere near as good. Early to bed or early to rise?

In-N-Out A Christmas Story or It's A Wonderful Life?

Yeah, it's all downhill for you now. But the ride does get more fun along the way.

Until the O ring gives up and you need to get a T60 torx on the adapter bolt with enough leverage to break the red locktite free. Oh, and there isn't enough space to get a socket with a breaker bar on it. You have to disassemble the T60 socket, put a long box end wrench on that, and then add a breaker bar over the end of the wrench.

I had a pretty righteous mullet when I was in high school and college. I remember those middle age women.

Welcome. Look for cruiser's mostly renix tips and start working through the list as time and budget allows.

They're both in the same class. Almost the same strength if you have the 29 spline 8.25. upgrading a 27 spline is a matter of swapping shafts and the differential.

They are a cheap way to get traction. They vary in how much you notice them in your Jeep. They do give you more traction and are a cheap way to improve off road driving capabilities. If you drive on icy roads at all, they are not good. They do more harm than good, especially in the front. For a snow/ice driver, I'd prefer an open differential over any automatic locker. I prefer the TrueTracs in my XJ (with the full time capable NP242) for a snow/ice capable driver. I had E-Lockers in my JK and it was great in the snow as well. Leaving the lockers unlocked until you need them is an option I am a big fan of. But they're not cheap. But buy once, cry once applies.

I have 265/75R16 (32s) with 4.56s in my XJ with the 4.0/AW4. It's just about perfect up here at altitude. We have a lot of hills around here and I wheel it up in the mountains. It's a good balance.

There's a sweet spot for an engine in a given vehicle. It has to produce enough torque to move the vehicle down the road. Torque is affected by gearing, both in the transmission and the axle. The size of the tire affects the torque and how it's applied to the ground. Obviously, high RPMs will reduce mileage. But dropping the RPMs too low can also reduce mileage. With tall gears (lower numbers) the engine has to produce more torque to move the vehicle. That means the engine is doing more work and that means it's consuming more fuel. There's basically a sweet spot. An ideal RPM range where the engine is providing enough torque through the transmission and gears to move the vehicle. Above or below that, the MPGs drop off. The manufacturers choose gearsets for various reasons. One of the chief concerns is mileage on the EPA test loop. This is why the XJ/MJ has 3.55s with the 4.0 auto instead of 3.73s or 4.10s. It's why the XJ/MJ 4.0 manual came with 3.07 gears instead of 3.31 or 3.55s. But the 2.5 manual and auto both came with much shorter (higher number) gears. It's because that engine produces less power and needs the torque multiplication of shorter gears in order to meet performance expectations. That's also why it doesn't get dramatically better mileage than a 4.0. A little bit, maybe.

AW4

It's in the mid to high teens depending on city/highway mix.

Oh, and I have 4.56 gears with the automatic and 32" tires in my XJ. It's a good combination. I might do 4.10s with the manual and it would probably be ok.

Most shops won't install parts you bring them. The ones that do are likely to not warranty the work since they can't be guaranteed that your parts are good. Shops will usually give you a good package deal for parts and labor. And since they warranty the work, they use good parts you can trust.

1. Find a good reputable shop. 2. Drop off Jeep. 3. Go back, pick up Jeep. Or: 1. Buy a bunch of tools and parts. (Probably more expensive than above) 2. Watch a ton of videos and learn how to do the meticulous work. 3. Spend a couple days doing the labor to set up the gears.