derf

So did later full size Jeeps. Around the same time as the YJ. Front leaf springs work fine by themselves but they don't corner as well as a good independent suspension or properly designed coil suspension with a straight axle. A panhard bar helps with that.

It's actually warm enough to open up the house today. So most of the snow is gone. We'll get more by the end of the week though.

If you can take the axle out yourself at the junkyard it's usually $100-150 around here. Buying one already taken out it's going to be more.

At least.

You maybe could cut it in half and use the pieces separately.

First coat done all the way around. Now it's time for the sanding to begin.

Yeah, there's people who are good at drywall. Then there's guys like me who are good at sanding.

One wall at a time...

Getting a solid dusting of snow today.

I do the same with Italian dressing.

I'm too scared to post one.

I'm having a "get off my lawn" moment. I have socks older than some of you guys. Tires, in an of themselves, do not cause death wobble. Being out of balance or out of round will cause a shimmy or vibration. But if the rest of your suspension is in good shape, you won't get death wobble. Just a noticeable vibration. If your suspension is marginal, the worn out tires can contribute to death wobble. They can cause it to onset faster or at a lower speed. But the suspension has to be worn or loose for death wobble to happen regardless of the state of the tires. A steering stabilizer does not fix death wobble. Replacing and balancing the tires doesn't fix death wobble. Those two things may mask it and reduce how frequently it happens. But they don't fix the underlying problem. All of the steering and suspension joints contribute to death wobble. This includes: Ball joints. 2 at either end of the axle. Get the Jeep up off the ground and try to move the tire around. See if the knuckle moves side to side or up and down. Rotating (i.e. steering) is fine but if it moves around, the ball joints are bad and need to be replaced. Tie rod and drag link ends. Similar to ball joints, they should rotate but if they move side to side and/or up and down, they're worn and need to be replaced. Link joints. These are harder to test. And there's 10 total to check, 4 control arms and 1 track bar. Though they should all be in similar condition to each other so if you find one that's bad, chances are they're all close to the end of their life. These you check by grabbing the arm and twisting it around. It shouldn't move much at all. The track bar is more of a ball joint type but try moving it around. If there is excessive play in any of them, you'll get death wobble. Also check every single fastener with a torque wrench. I like to do this before I check a specific joint. A loose bolt will cause excessive play (leading to death wobble all by itself) and you should check the joint when when the bolt/nut is tight. The ball joints that use cotter pins shouldn't need to be checked if the pin is still there doing its job. Finally, don't trust the monkeys they hire at the alignment shop. By in large they couldn't identify a bad joint if you crammed it up their nose. There are some who can but how do you know?

Almost anything is better than Krappy Frickin Chicken. Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am?

Bruce Lee Acoustic or electric guitar?

One step at a time...

So far...

Not major progress but I did button up enough for it to move under it's own power. I shuffled it to the back to make room for the work I need to do on the XJ. That will go for a couple months and then I can get back to this project.

That's what I'm leaning towards.

The 4.0 in this rig has a rod knocking. So I'm starting the rebuild of a donor engine. Both my XJ and the donor engine have the 0331 head that tends to crack. I found an 0331 TUPY head and it showed up today. Time to start the teardown and evaluation of the donor. I haven't decided if I'm going to stroke it while it's apart but I will soon.

Ice cream. Shake or malt?

Yeah, Karens in HOAs are in more places than CA. And not every neighborhood in CA is filled with Karens. You can find a good neighborhood with good neighbors almost anywhere. You just have to look, and at the same time know what to look for.

My biggest concern would be liability coverage. If you fix someone's Jeep and something goes wrong, you can be sued. A mechanic working out of a shop will have business insurance to cover any potential liability. Their professional training (i.e. ASE certification) will help them qualify for lower cost insurance. Other than that, there's nothing legally stopping you from doing the work and getting paid to do it. Uncle Sam will want you to fill out your self employment tax forms and give him his tribute of course.

Well, I'm doing the planning for a stroker in the XJ but haven't ruled out an LS in the MJ yet. But atroker is "easier" so I'll go with that. Stick, MIG, or TIG?

It does seem that Jeep has been married more times than Zsa Zsa Gabor.