75sv1

For some reason, I want to do a 97+ swap. Yet, I want to keep the front grill or header panel. I need to cut out some areas to have the headlight adjusters fit.

I also run an adjustable shock on the rear. A bit firmer shock on the front. KYB Max(??). I run Rancho 9000s on the rear. This is on an XJ with 2" lift. My rear shocks are on the middle adjustment. Really, balanced out the vehicle. I was running some white box shocks. Probably a Rancho 200. The rear sort of floated. I could see that with varying loads, an adjustable shock would be good for your vehicle.

My take. The previous job looks hacked. The routing of the rear lines, is suspect. Makes about anything less, questionable. Yeah, I'd put new calipers on the front. I went through this with my Chevy Avalanche last year. Looked like recent parts. I found chunks in the Master Cylinder. I botched a new one. I didn't bench bleed it right. I also had a '78 Civic. Had the brakes replaced a few times. The rotor on those were pressed between the bearing. They didn't bleed the front calipers. When I did, there was a rust blob that came out. Yeah, new calipers.

Old Man Emmu (OME) does make a 1.75 spring. I'd try a KYB shock from a TJ first. I used a 2" spring from Iron Rock Offroad. I am not sure where they source their front springs. The rears are Rough Countries. Except the 3.5".

For stock shocks, I like the KYB Silver ones (Japan). For a steering stabilizer, Old Man EMU or Tenneco. The Tenneco one I used survived a long bought of Death Wobble, and was still good. I have used some Rough Country parts, although not shocks. Of late they have been upgrading the quality of their parts. Still, there are better products out there. Also, add Doetsch-Tech to the list of shocks. I'd second the Core 4x4 control arms. Good quality, good price. As for front springs it depends if stock or lifted. Old Man EMU, Metal Cloak.

Pressure bottle? Also is 220 with AC on? I'd jump 12 volts to the fan. See if its the motor.

Well, let's not ask the Wise Old Owl. He'd say 3. Now, there is the single guy plan. 7 days in the week. So, seven Jeeps. Or is that 7 MJs, and seven XJs and .... Then there's the Married Plan. Theres 30 days in the month. then times 2. So, 60 Jeeps, or is it 60 MJs, and 60 XJs, and ... And then there's the Divorcee, well, there's one MJ, or is it one XJ or is it ....

The NAPA by me has carried KROIL products and others. Auto Value is another one by me.

NAPA changed suppliers (I think) on the NAPA Gold filters. I bought one for my Avalanche. It had a red seal. Well, I ended up with about 4 quarts of oil on my driveway. I am using a WIX Filter from Part Store or Federated. I'll try a NAPA Platinum when I switch to synthetics. Also, I worked with a guy who owned Toyota trucks. He only used Toyota oil filter. Said he could hear the difference in ones that used Toyota filter or others. Something about their drain back valve. I wish Hard Driver still made oil filters.

There are some Car Quest still around. I think 5 to 9 in Indiana. Used to be at NAPA level of years ago. As any depends on who's behind the counter. Also, what brands they carry.

I think most have a No Return on electrical. I like NAPA best. AutoZone least. NAPA has gone down to the other's level in the past 10 to 15 years. Advanced and Orielly's over AutoZone. Also, We have a Federated. They do carry the brand names. Gates, Clevite etc. Pep Boys is around. Haven't been in one in Years though.

The braking issue is of concern. The mountains in CO are steep. I've had my WJ breaks fade on me in WV. No towing involved. Add in traffic. ????

Auto or Manual? I think the Auto is rated for 5K the Manual 3.5K. I have hauled some Sabb Sonnets with my '98 XJ stock. But they are like 1800 lbs. That far and the mountains, well : No. Also, from where? If from the South, then there's Raton pass. From the South its OK. Going back South, well. Its like the climb of a Roller Coaster. Going North might challenge your brakes. A '71 Caddy gets past 80 mpg real fast free wheeling.

I used a come a long on one of my '98's. I did use a hydraulic ram on the other. More to pop up or out the cab. A tree fell on it. And 70barracudas look righteous in the patina. Actually, in the Classic car world Survivors are winning Concours and fetching as much or more than 100 point restos. A Ferrari that Fangio raced fetched $40 million. Bugs from the race still on it.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and Row52 might be of help. Some do ship. If you were closer, the parts bin would be open.

Chilling to me. I was almost T-Boned this weekend in my Avalanche. Guy didn't see the Stop sign on a country road. He waved at me, thinking I was in the wrong. Just my take, but I don't think it got into your frame. So, you might be able to get by with a new radiator and straighten the bumper and other parts out. Yes, I've done that on two XJs. Yours looks rust free. So, just the bare body would be $2K. Also, try and keep the medical part of your situation open for a year. Issues might crop up.

Ohms is 10 to 16 I believe. 13 nominal. You can test them at the trans plug up by the tran dip stick. Also, the brake pedal switch and the TPS. Also, I'd change the fluid a few times. On mine it was the speed sensor. '98-up has two. Also, mine was the rear one. A bit of a pain. The brake light switch does get rusty. I think $20. You can clean are relube the NSS. Hardest part is to take it off.

I do have the triple fans on my 2000 XJ. I do not note any overheating. I used the Dirt Bound fan frame and SPAL 10 inch fans. I do mainly open road, some intown. I think it cools a bit better while driving. I do have my concerns if I was to be in heavy stop and Go traffic. Also, if wheeling. The stock electric fan does flow a lot better than the SPALs. I did look into running two stock electric fans. A RH and a LH drive. Couldn't come up with a RH drive fan. From memory, SPAL 10 inch ones are 800 cfm(??? maybe lower). Stock ones are 1100 to 1200 CFM. There are some SPAL 10 inch ones that put out a higher CFM. They don't quite fit.

I used Cerakote. Sold at Walmart. Seems to work OK. There is a 2 part clear coat that some say is good. A bit expensive though.

I would add, that during the compression check, after the first measurement if low, squirt oil in the cylinder. Test again. If higher , then probably valves no sealing. As for the durability of a Stroker. I think there are a few with 100K or more and no complaints. Also, you can build them as Stock Plus. So, 9.3-9.5 static compression. 430-450 lift on the cam and stock Melling Springs. Also, with better materials and better oils than in the past, there is the possibility they will last longer.

As far as Stroker vs Stock. Depends on a lot of stuff. A Stocker can be built, modified or tuned to about 220 hp. There are various Stroker recipes. I have built and ran a bit a Mini-Stroker. I can't recommend that avenue. The low buck ones I see issues with that. Mainly, decking the block. I do have a Bishop-Buel assembled. $$. Presently looking at the Clegg Stage 2. About 9.3 CR. $1250 for the kit. No cam. The KB438c was changed a few years back. It has a closed combustion chamber. The main constriction is the head. A good ported head is probably worth 15hp to 20 hp. I've done 2-3. Still working on what I think would work best.

I'd do a compression check first.

I think I'd put in cross bracing.

Its just not the cracks on the Harmonic balancer. Yours looks like the elastomer has cheeked out. So, it has lost its bond. Replace it ASAP. It can damage the main bearings. Direct experience on my part. A harmonic balancer is about $50-$60. Mine caused squealing of the belt.

3/16 is usually what frame stiffeners are for XJs. IRO uses 10 ga on the rear, 3/16 center and front. I have seen some advertised for 1/4. The rear frame rails were rusted out on the bottom of my '00 XJ. I used 3/16 Hooligan frame stiffeners there. Then went 3/16 IRO on the center, and 3/16 Ruff Stuff on the front. I did have a cracked frame on the front of my '98 XJ. It was just zip welded up.