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I took out most of the interior in my Chevy Avalanche. It used the tork head nuts to bolt down the seats. Also, I remember them for exhaust bolts on Ford Contours. See the females for seat belts, on XJs and other vehicles.

Insurance is the big thing on Classic, Antiques and collector Cars. I use Hagerty on my Bricklin. Minimal restrictions. Has to be in a lockable garage, can't use it for a DD. I am not sure on nighttime driving.

Have to watch the definition. Antique vs Classic. Some have Antique as pre War II. Classic is usually 25 years or older. Also, there is collector. I think they can be any age, just a rare or older car. I think even new cars can be in the collector status for insurance.

I recently did a mini stroker. Having issues with misfires. Still, on the rebuild, I went with Sealed Power pistons. They are the late style. Coated skirt and Hyper Eutectic. I used Hastings Moly ring set. On the camshaft, I had Schneider reground my camshaft. Also, has a coating or something for the lobes. At the time, no one was offering a 99+ camshaft. I redid my heads with Chevy Small block valves. I'd go with LS valves. One of the heads I did, I used Melling valve springs for a 91-95 Jeep 4.0L HO. I think the specs are 90-ft-lbs at 1.640 lift. Should be good for 0.450 lift, possibly more. On LS motors, the stock springs are 90 ft-lbs at ???, for .495 lift up to around .550. I'd use a break in oil, like Lucas for the initial 2000 miles. I plan to use Shell Rotela down the road. I see that they have a 10W-40 T6 out now.

I'd replace it, with any signs of rubber damage. Even just cracks. No need to take the radiator out. As said above, its doable. The pullers are cheap. But you need the installer tool. I'd check one of the parts stores for the loaner tools. Also, I put a white stripe between the two metal parts. That way I can see if the elastomer has failed, and is slipping.

I do use low beams to signal to Semis, that they can pull out. That I am clear of them. I don't like hi beams. As to the temp and Direction, some of the XJs have that in an overhead. I installed one on my "98 XJ.

Well, they were nice when one of the rear wheels came off. Even offered a ride to the police barracks. Transport my firearm, too. I didn't want to take anymore of their time, so I opted for a ride to the Quickmart down below.

Hmm, maybe that is why I was pulled over in PA, for a phantom expired plate, last week.

I was pulled over while driving my Volt at dark. An aggressive driving SUV, had ducked in back of me to pass a vehicle in the left lane. This was in a 35 mpg zone. The flash of light, I instinctively drifted or ducked a bit to the right. I was pulled over for driving in the Bike Lane. I did not get ticketed. Still, why wasn't the SUV pulled over. ???

I don't like being flashed with high beams. In certain situations, it blinds me or possibly other drivers. Now, I will turn the low beams on and off in the right vehicle. XJ's I can do that. My Volt, I haven't found out if it can.

Chico the man. Or was it 'Chico and the Man.'

MJ + Manly Jeep. Its the MJ Jeep of Jeeps. Sort like what Micheal Jordon is to B-Ball.

I am not sure on what year my Isuzu axle is. I remember it being the later Gen. Also, it is the Waggy axle I will be shortening. If that was asked to me. My Waggy is also a passenger side drop. I forget who's axle arch kit I used. It had to be modified for the passenger side drop.

On the Ford 8.8, the width is about 1.5 inches less than a Dana 35 or 8.25. So, either spacers or the Yukon axle kit. The Yukon kit 'upgrades' to a floating axle. Some say it nears the strength of a Ford 9. Also, they are drilled for 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5. I do have an ISUZU and a Waggy for my MJ. The Waggy is a bit wider.

In the XJ world sometimes this is referred to as Boat sides. I am planning it for an XJ project. So, in lew of tubes or square tubes hanging down and out, a channel of square tube in welded in place of the rocker panels. There are some kits for this.

One thing to think about is the Compression Ratio. I think stock is around 8.8. I'm at 9.45 on a 2000 XJ on a mini stroker. I'd want a 9.3 CR for 87-88 octane. Mine hasn't settled in yet. Dealing with a misfire issue. I'd look at a Cometic gasket. Reduce the bore from the 4.0 to a 3.8XX. I forget what their min diameter is. I think a stock gasket is 0.042. Might go 0.038-0.040. There is a variation on combustion chambers. My 2000 FSM says 52 to 58 ccs. I measured about 54-55 CCs. I had to open up to 59 CCs and a 4.0 diameter with 0.050 thickness to achieve the 9.45 CR. My pistons are 0.015 above the deck. Also, on the 99+ Intake, I think overall it will add some HP. I think just bolting it on, about 5 hp. One poster from years ago, said he lost 5 hp. I think it has potential for more HP. Still, I think this is more in the lower RMPs. Which for a Daily Driver is good. I am also running the 12 hole injectors. Not sure on them. Nothing negative though. I have run the 4 hole Fords. I saw no real improvements. I think the engine did run smoother on both '98s I installed them on. I think the main improvements would be in porting the heads, slightly bigger valves. 1.950 intakes and 1.550 exhaust. A bit higher lift camshaft, up to .450. Also, porting the intake. The 99+ I have, needs the injector bosses reduced and evened up. On the Mall Crawler stuff, Jordan88 did do some porting on his intake, too.

I use the low profile Zerks fittings : 10-32 UNF Flush Stright Slotted Grease Zerk Nipple Fitting 5 pcs | eBay Those are not the right size, though.

I have installed the 99+ intake on a 98 XJ. Also, did the bored TB. Also, with that is a 2.5 CAT back. I gained a few HPs. More I could feel it on inclines or hills. I did not port the intake though. If you read the Mall Crawling thread, not that he also changed injectors and increased fuel pressure. I'd also wonder about having the ECM tuned. I did bore my own TBs. I did put a taper before and after the butterfly. I think it helps, but no real data etc.

I think both SKF and Timken are having the hub bearing units made in China. I had a SKF unit cause issues with the tire puckering. I thought it would have been the Scholdinger unit. I bought both from NAPA a few years back. I had one of the cheap made in China hub bearing units, also bought at NAPA, around 2010, that did good. I remember it cost $35.

I think I bought their rear frame stiffeners for an XJ. Seemed as good as others. IRO, and Hooligan.

I do have a Russ Pottenger head. Excellent workmanship. Also, he can or will CC the head to do what you want. There are +++ and --- for each era of heads. Probably the 603 for you. Also, you'd need to check the availability of the Edelbrock head. I think Russ might have a few left. I have ported 3 4.0L heads. 2 of them are '99 heads. Not near the quality of Russ's though. Also, for some reason around me they won't or don't do bronze guides. I did have some 30 degrees on the intake valves though. I am having 37 degree intakes on some LS heads. I know Russ ports the Tupy Heads. I hear he has gone to some Chinese castings. I still want to do one more 4.0L head. Use a Tupy casting. I used Chevy SB valves before. I'd use LS valves. Have the intake 30 degree. 45 on the exhaust. Moldstar 20 for the valve guides. Possibly Moldstar 90 for the seats. I'd use 91-95 HO Melling springs. Port the exhaust as a 'D' port. Use stock 4.0L spring retainers. This would be running a below .450 lift camshaft. I am running or more like trying to break in a mini stroker with a cam with .450 lift. I'd also be thinking of 9.3 to 9.5 static compression ratio. Trying to run on 87-88 octane. Also, I am looking to do a full stroker. KB has a hyper eutectic 'D' or stock type piston out. Not much more than stock pistons. So, I have been thinking of this for a bit. I do have an extra cam, head and a used bock. To many projects right now.

I think the WJ and 2000-01 XJ units are closer to width. I do not think you will need the weld on spacer. I did look into adapting to later XJ knuckles, not know the earlier XJ/MJ knuckles had bolt caliper brackets.

I have gone that route. Also, I think you would be running the early XJ knuckles. Cobra Marty had some write ups about that. I think he went even larger diameter rotor. I remember Dodge Dakota Rotors. Mustang GT calipers and 3/4 spacers. I want to say he used XJ hub bearings. The WJs are basically the same, except the 5 on 5. I use Rock Auto to get dimensions. I was/ am looking to use WJ Hubs, Dakota Rotors or later Jeep rotors to get a 13 inch rotors and use WJ hubs. I might try and go to 5 on 5.5. Thinking on of the later JKs or such would have the hubs etc.

I am running the WJ Big Brakes. So, WJ knuckles with a 1/4 spacer. Then using the WJ Akebono Calipers. I also need to space out 1/4 for the Brake Caliper bracket. On mine with 5 on 5, I use WJ Rotors. That is with the WJ Hub Bearings. Also, use WJ lower ball joints. I see a lot of threads going in different directions. Some of them scare me. If people need a list or so. I'll post more info.

Maybe Marson or Arrow. I think they used to be good brands. Maybe check the pawn shops. See if you can find a good old US made one.