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OK, as I know it, and mainly from reading : Your lift at the valve is .462 and .478. The stock springs for an HO (91-95) are maxed out at .450 lift. The part number for the springs you have would help. As above, the Melling 'stock' springs are suppose to be around 90 lbs at 1.640. Another thing to think about is to try a lighter spring retainer on the intake valve. Usually, that is the valve that floats. Also, might depend on what RPMs you plan to run. I'd have to see the specs as to what the RPM range is on this cam. Also, are you manual or Auto trans? OK, I see auto trans. Wondering about what the vacuum will be? I remember .272 for my 351W for an auto. Also, the Melling and Sealed Power springs, are suppose to be a smaller diameter vs stock. That is good, as you'll have less chance of coil bind. Found this on the net: 'if you search around JeepStrokers.com or NAXJA, I think you'll see they recommend Mopar P5249464 valve springs, Mopar P4529230AB cam, Mopar P4452032 chromoly retainers, P4529218 keepers and Crane bridge shim kit CRN-99179-1. Check with Dino on JeepStrokers.com forum. He's a legit expert in this stuff. Or call Hesco.' I'll see about the specs on the MOPAR Springs.

OK, as I know it, and mainly from reading : Your lift at the valve is .462 and .478. The stock springs for an HO (91-95) are maxed out at .450 lift. The part number for the springs you have would help. As above, the Melling 'stock' springs are suppose to be around 90 lbs at 1.640. Another thing to think about is to try a lighter spring retainer on the intake valve. Usually, that is the valve that floats. Also, might depend on what RPMs you plan to run. I'd have to see the specs as to what the RPM range is on this cam. Also, are you manual or Auto trans? OK, I see auto trans. Wondering about what the vacuum will be? I remember .272 for my 351W for an auto. Also, the Melling and Sealed Power springs, are suppose to be a smaller diameter vs stock. That is good, as you'll have less chance of coil bind.

Could it be for a ZJ? I tired on in my MJ. The steering wheel was an inch or so, farther forward. feltt nice. The length in the engine bay was longer though.

I'll check my books for what I had in college. To some point, it is helpful to see things or relate them to water flow or pressure. Far from an expert though. Also, there is the reading of electrical prints. Real fun. I did 15 years in drafting. Not many electrical prints though. Whole different world. I was in Germany being trained on a machine in the late 80's. I was suppose to help translate for our Maintenace, Electrical guy. I'm far from fluent in German. Back then, about clueless in electronics. Technical German, you basically have to know what each technical word is or means. There a bunch of words tacked together. Anyways, our guy knew the electrical symbols and all was well. Also, as ghetdlc320 has suggested, a bread board, some resistors, capacitors, wire etc. and a good volt ohm meter. Try some plans, etc. Sort of what a basic electrical college course does. Might see if there are any Vo-Tech classes in your area.

What lift and what spring tension are you looking for? I think the 232 has probably .430 lift at 1.640. ?? So, stock springs might be able to handle that. I think used a set of Sealed Powers on a head I did. They went well with Chevy Small Block retainers. I'd look at Melling Springs for a '95 XJ. I think they are rated for 85-90 lbs at 1.640. Stock LS springs are rated at 90 lbs at 1.640. Russ Pottenger of Bishop Buel Racing has LS springs that are suppose to be drop in. Also, the stock springs are conical. Similar to LS Beehive springs. They sort of self dampen. So, it takes less spring tension to keep the valves from floating. The original stock springs are around 80 lbs at 1.640. I think the latter 2000-up are 75 lbs at 1.640. What valves did you use?

I took out most of the interior in my Chevy Avalanche. It used the tork head nuts to bolt down the seats. Also, I remember them for exhaust bolts on Ford Contours. See the females for seat belts, on XJs and other vehicles.

Insurance is the big thing on Classic, Antiques and collector Cars. I use Hagerty on my Bricklin. Minimal restrictions. Has to be in a lockable garage, can't use it for a DD. I am not sure on nighttime driving.

Have to watch the definition. Antique vs Classic. Some have Antique as pre War II. Classic is usually 25 years or older. Also, there is collector. I think they can be any age, just a rare or older car. I think even new cars can be in the collector status for insurance.

I recently did a mini stroker. Having issues with misfires. Still, on the rebuild, I went with Sealed Power pistons. They are the late style. Coated skirt and Hyper Eutectic. I used Hastings Moly ring set. On the camshaft, I had Schneider reground my camshaft. Also, has a coating or something for the lobes. At the time, no one was offering a 99+ camshaft. I redid my heads with Chevy Small block valves. I'd go with LS valves. One of the heads I did, I used Melling valve springs for a 91-95 Jeep 4.0L HO. I think the specs are 90-ft-lbs at 1.640 lift. Should be good for 0.450 lift, possibly more. On LS motors, the stock springs are 90 ft-lbs at ???, for .495 lift up to around .550. I'd use a break in oil, like Lucas for the initial 2000 miles. I plan to use Shell Rotela down the road. I see that they have a 10W-40 T6 out now.

I'd replace it, with any signs of rubber damage. Even just cracks. No need to take the radiator out. As said above, its doable. The pullers are cheap. But you need the installer tool. I'd check one of the parts stores for the loaner tools. Also, I put a white stripe between the two metal parts. That way I can see if the elastomer has failed, and is slipping.

I do use low beams to signal to Semis, that they can pull out. That I am clear of them. I don't like hi beams. As to the temp and Direction, some of the XJs have that in an overhead. I installed one on my "98 XJ.

Well, they were nice when one of the rear wheels came off. Even offered a ride to the police barracks. Transport my firearm, too. I didn't want to take anymore of their time, so I opted for a ride to the Quickmart down below.

Hmm, maybe that is why I was pulled over in PA, for a phantom expired plate, last week.

I was pulled over while driving my Volt at dark. An aggressive driving SUV, had ducked in back of me to pass a vehicle in the left lane. This was in a 35 mpg zone. The flash of light, I instinctively drifted or ducked a bit to the right. I was pulled over for driving in the Bike Lane. I did not get ticketed. Still, why wasn't the SUV pulled over. ???

I don't like being flashed with high beams. In certain situations, it blinds me or possibly other drivers. Now, I will turn the low beams on and off in the right vehicle. XJ's I can do that. My Volt, I haven't found out if it can.

Chico the man. Or was it 'Chico and the Man.'

MJ + Manly Jeep. Its the MJ Jeep of Jeeps. Sort like what Micheal Jordon is to B-Ball.

I am not sure on what year my Isuzu axle is. I remember it being the later Gen. Also, it is the Waggy axle I will be shortening. If that was asked to me. My Waggy is also a passenger side drop. I forget who's axle arch kit I used. It had to be modified for the passenger side drop.

On the Ford 8.8, the width is about 1.5 inches less than a Dana 35 or 8.25. So, either spacers or the Yukon axle kit. The Yukon kit 'upgrades' to a floating axle. Some say it nears the strength of a Ford 9. Also, they are drilled for 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5. I do have an ISUZU and a Waggy for my MJ. The Waggy is a bit wider.

In the XJ world sometimes this is referred to as Boat sides. I am planning it for an XJ project. So, in lew of tubes or square tubes hanging down and out, a channel of square tube in welded in place of the rocker panels. There are some kits for this.

One thing to think about is the Compression Ratio. I think stock is around 8.8. I'm at 9.45 on a 2000 XJ on a mini stroker. I'd want a 9.3 CR for 87-88 octane. Mine hasn't settled in yet. Dealing with a misfire issue. I'd look at a Cometic gasket. Reduce the bore from the 4.0 to a 3.8XX. I forget what their min diameter is. I think a stock gasket is 0.042. Might go 0.038-0.040. There is a variation on combustion chambers. My 2000 FSM says 52 to 58 ccs. I measured about 54-55 CCs. I had to open up to 59 CCs and a 4.0 diameter with 0.050 thickness to achieve the 9.45 CR. My pistons are 0.015 above the deck. Also, on the 99+ Intake, I think overall it will add some HP. I think just bolting it on, about 5 hp. One poster from years ago, said he lost 5 hp. I think it has potential for more HP. Still, I think this is more in the lower RMPs. Which for a Daily Driver is good. I am also running the 12 hole injectors. Not sure on them. Nothing negative though. I have run the 4 hole Fords. I saw no real improvements. I think the engine did run smoother on both '98s I installed them on. I think the main improvements would be in porting the heads, slightly bigger valves. 1.950 intakes and 1.550 exhaust. A bit higher lift camshaft, up to .450. Also, porting the intake. The 99+ I have, needs the injector bosses reduced and evened up. On the Mall Crawler stuff, Jordan88 did do some porting on his intake, too.

I use the low profile Zerks fittings : 10-32 UNF Flush Stright Slotted Grease Zerk Nipple Fitting 5 pcs | eBay Those are not the right size, though.

I have installed the 99+ intake on a 98 XJ. Also, did the bored TB. Also, with that is a 2.5 CAT back. I gained a few HPs. More I could feel it on inclines or hills. I did not port the intake though. If you read the Mall Crawling thread, not that he also changed injectors and increased fuel pressure. I'd also wonder about having the ECM tuned. I did bore my own TBs. I did put a taper before and after the butterfly. I think it helps, but no real data etc.

I think both SKF and Timken are having the hub bearing units made in China. I had a SKF unit cause issues with the tire puckering. I thought it would have been the Scholdinger unit. I bought both from NAPA a few years back. I had one of the cheap made in China hub bearing units, also bought at NAPA, around 2010, that did good. I remember it cost $35.

I think I bought their rear frame stiffeners for an XJ. Seemed as good as others. IRO, and Hooligan.