JustEmptyEveryPocket

Well, as long as you are not cutting up pristine vehicles, go for it! just post up some photos so I can keep shaking my head at you. And my apologies on being pedantic, but aren't you making a cherocherokee? If you use two XJs that is anyways.

So other than this being an interesting engineering problem, what is the point? Just purchase a vehicle with 3rd row seating. An early durango comes to mind. Or any of the chevy/gmc mom mobiles. Or better yet, a real life van, with decals removed and replaced with JEEP decals! Gets you exactly what you were asking about with no crazy fab work. Chevy box vans go super cheap from the electrical companies and would work. You can even lift those and put bigger tires on, etc. I guess I am lame and just don't understand questions/ desires like these....

Thats what she said!

Not true. People always forget the cost of your time. I don't value myself very high, but lets call it $20 an hour. I can smack out fittings in 1/10 (not joking) the time to do it with the hand flaring tool. Over the course of my vehicle's worth of brake lines I paid for the tool. Not to mention the flares come out uniform and near perfect each time. Usually this is true. However, I found the tools I rented had a misaligned die. Meaning the round, concave part around the 'stob' (sorry don't know a better descriptor here) was not centered. It caused every flare to crunch over to the side and be worthless. I tried four different tools from three different stores. They must all use the same C.R.A.P. manufacturers since they all had this same defect. I am sure this batch has been culled by now, but man the hassle and headache of driving back and forth and home and back and home and back and forth etc paid for the good tool all over again. But then again, to each their own....

I'm just throwing this in here for future readers. Also, apologies for all caps, but its warranted IMO: GET THIS FLARE TOOL!! Its worth its weight in gold. I redid the lines in my truck front to rear (including some extra stuff thats not worth mentioning here) and it was very frustrating trying to use the rental flare tool from Autozone or Orielleys. Turns out their die was drilled crooked which made all the flares fail every time. Only took me two days of pure hell to figure that one out. Succeeded in completing one connection in that time frame. Then, I purchased the tool above and knocked out the rest of the truck in an afternoon. It was amazing! So if you are doing more flare work that one or two here and there, do yourself the favor and purchase the Mastercool Hydraulic Flaring Tool. BTW, I am not getting an kickbacks here, the tool is just that great.

Wouldn't this fall into some sort of grandfather clause? Since the truck came from the factory this way, are you required to modify (and change the authenticity) or the truck at this point?

Don't scrap it! I am sure someone would love to buy that car. Every time I see a car getting crushed I hurt a little more inside.

In that case I would recommend you measure your current ride height and compare it against original numbers. Check out THIS THREAD for starters, followed by THIS THREAD for picture reference. Could just be that your springs are clapped out after too many years of use and abuse. As far as tires go, with proper stops you can run 31"X10.5" at factory height. Although I personally would go with a 235x75x15 or something first. Factory is your friend IMHO. Just throwing out some ideas, and apologies on not really answering your question directly. I just know what a rabbit hole big tires/ big lifts can be. You can put in lots of money on a quality lift and tires to then realize you need longer control arms to manage caster (or is it camber?) angles. This leads to some bumpstear or maybe deathwobble, which leads you to replacing the entire front end and upgrading to the ZJ V8 stuff. Etc Etc. Once you start, you better be ready to open up your wallet, credit cards, and home equity. Do I seem bitter about this?

I bet you could ask this question of 5 different people and get 5 radically different answers. My suggestion would be to go through some build threads (different forum on this site) and read what people have done and look at the end result. This would give you much better ideas that just reading opinions. Good luck. Side question: Why do you want to lift it? Not saying you shouldn't. Just realize that if it is for cosmetics you will be shelling out $$$$ and getting nothing good back for your investment.

I would go the lowbrow route here and unplug the connector right by the fuel tank. Leave it open and see what the gauge (in the truck) does. Then ground the sender wire and see what the gauge does. It should swing through its extreme ranges. If it does the problem is in the sender or wires to the sender. If it doesn't then the problem is in the other end.

I'm interested in this. After spending multiple afternoons upside down messing with the fuseblock in current location (and throwing out my back pretty badly) I would love to move it somewhere more accessible. So please post up all the pics you have and describe how much fun it was!

I changed my oil.....and the oil filter. Seems like I should be cooler things to fit in here, oh well. Oh! I also checked tire pressure. The spare was flat again

Don't diss the wooden bumper. My MJ is rocking one. It was meant to be a temporary thing to pass inspection, but as everyone knows "nothing is as permanent as a temporary solution that works." It definitely makes for a nice conversation starter.

Florida Man strikes again!

Why does everyone hate on these bolts so much? I have removed my transmission 3 times and have never had any issues. I keep putting the E12 bolts back in place because they work fine.

I would also add to NEVER use a parts store special valve cover (96+cover 'upgrade'). I ordered and installed one on my truck, then battled rough running and rich conditions for a week. Finally realized the valve cover was badly made and was mashing down a few rocker arms all the time. Went to a junkyard and pulled one to use, no problems. OEM FTW.

Probably not pertinent to this discussion, but this is why I only buy land. I built my own house just the way I wanted it, without anyone's opinions or issues affecting me. And in case anyone is thinking it, I only buy land in rural county area so there are no inspections for what I build. Its good enough for me, and that's good enough.

Being super technical about what the decal says, your truck fits. At least if it has four wheels on the ground then it should count as a four wheeler right?

In general you should never purposefully break anything on these trucks. Parts are scarce and its getting worse as the years go by. You never know (or at least I have trouble knowing) if the part I just broke is a $1 best buy at rockauto or a $300+ ebay item that shows up one or twice a year. Besides, enough things on your truck will break that you didn't mean to do that its worth not adding to your "fix it" list. IMHO anyways.

Gratz! I hope you enjoy that awesome vehicle.

For my swap I used a prebled unit for a 96 Cherokee. Fit right in place on the firewall. I did have to drill out the hole on the pushrod to fit my pedal I think. But after that hurdle it was smooth sailing for me. YMMV.

JP5A. Check out AutoZone's website. They state "No attached sump" for the A, and "Yes attached sump" for B.

Yea, the ad is deleted. Pete, thanks for your offer. Timing was just off a little.

Why is it nuts to put this into practice? Frankly I would love for my neighbors to have electric mini guns, mortars, and anything else their heart desired. As long as I could also have anything my heart and pocket book could support. Its continual group think like this that keeps individual people from realizing the truth. With respect, this is a load of crap. Laws are best as blanket statements instead of algorithmic decision makers. In other words a law is binary, either you meet it or you don't. It can't judge shades in-between. So when people say 'make a law' all they are really saying is 'take the responsibility off me so I don't have to try'. It does nothing but weaken everyone, expect those that aren't willing to follow the law anyways. To keep 'lethal weapons' out of the hands of the people you suggest you need everyone around them to have enough wherewithal and ability to judge that particular situation and come to the best solution. Its like going to the bar with your group of friends. You depend on your friends to help monitor your state of inebriation, and you do the same for them. They call you out if you have had one shot too many (or at least good friends should). They also help call you out on driving if you have had too much (again we are assuming a good group of friends here). There is not a police officer per person per bar that stands there and makes sure you don't @#$% up. Its the group of people you are with who do that job if you can't anymore. Why can't we as a people step up, accept this responsibility, and do what needs to be done for those around us? I'll end it with a favorite quote: “I rather doubt he had the sense to see the truth: that there are wounds worse than fatal, which the law's little binary distinctions-guilty/innocent, criminal/victim-cannot fathom, let alone fix. The law is a hammer, not a scalpel.” ― William Landay, Defending Jacob

It may have sold. I can't seem to find the ad anymore.