JustEmptyEveryPocket

ComancheClub Enterprises Inc.™ ? Let me know when you incorporate and put it on the stock exchange. I'll grab a few hundred shares for safe keeping.

Follow-up for this. Maybe it will help someone else. Also looking for opinions on replacement parts during this job. Since I am using the block only I believe I can make it work. The holes for the motor mounts were there and tapped already. It will just require two longer bolts (one on each side) and some spacers to be made. The timing cover and water pump will need to be removed and the old versions used for clearance and bolt mounts/ bosses. Since I am stripping almost everything from the block, I was hoping to get some opinions on what needs to be replaced, and what I can reuse. Right now my list consists of: Timing Cover Gasket Water Pump Gasket (Can I re-use the old water pump?) New Head Gasket (obviously) New Head Bolts? (I don't have a FSM, can you re-use headbolts with the 4.0L?) Intake/ Exhaust Gasket What else is needed? The Valve Cover came with a nice blue Fel-pro, so I will be re-using that.

First and only post by the OP. Asking about buying, possibly selling, stuff. Scammer?

Cut it open. *qualifier* I'm giving this advice since its not actually mine. Proceed at your own risk.

Well, run it through an RPM range. Does it respond like it should? The 2.5L to 4.0L might be a valid concern.

Please re-read this comment. Then read it again. And again. Then ask yourself if you really need to adjust the tach. . . I would recommend that you start checking grounds, sensor values, connectors for green crusties, gunk in connectors, etc etc. Go through all the main cruiser54.com tips. Your tach is most likely reading correctly and needs no adjustment. Run through all the other likely sources first at least.

I would think its more likely a compounding factor. Meaning the plugs are producing a not so great spark, but it works the vast majority of the time. Until this one sensor (the problem you are trying to diagnose) submits a reading of 4.75 volts instead of 4.80 volts because of whatever reason. Then you get a misfire, because that 0.05v was the difference between everything working and something borking. Sorry for the vague generalities here. But its how I would describe my concern.

Been covered often. Google search "site:comancheclub.com *various topic*" without the quotes to get threads from this site only pertaining to your topic of choice. Case in point this thread came up as the first result. Total time: 10 seconds of searching.

For reference I did not use the spring when I replaced all the hoses. I used Gates brand. No problems at all after ~4 years. YMMV

My opinion would be to use this as practice. If you are not familiar with filler, sanding, painting, dent repair, etc its much better to practice on something besides your own truck. This would be a prime case for renting or borrowing a few tools, trying out some youtube methods, and not worrying if the results aren't perfect. That tailgate will sell just as well with a not so great dent repair as it will with the original dent. So why not try it out?

Didn't you already ask these questions and get the same answers in your other "Brake Line Question" thread? Why the repeat? Also, a great feature that you can use is to google "site:comancheclub.com *search criteria*" without the quote marks. It will limit the search to this forum only. Its a great way to sift through threads quickly. For instance, in 5 minutes I found the following thread, which should answer your questions completely.

*This reply in no way applies to the OPs questions* Minuit- My truck was not nearly as bad as your photos, but I still rebuilt all the parts, hat and brace included. Brand new shiny metal welded in place and kept looking (fairly) stock. It was two days of hard work but worth it. All that to say: "You are not alone". And then to ruin it for you --> After I got the brand new metal in and seamsealed I sprayed it over with POR-15 (properly prepared), followed by four coats of LizardSkin, and two layers of topcoating. No more carpet and definitely not stock looking.

Going purely off memory its 0.035? Don't worry about gap right now. If you are trying to read the plugs for rich versus lean the color is all that matters. Look at the porcelain part right below the electrode. I was always told this should be a "camel tan" color and as uniform as possible. Anything else will tell you how to change your carb adjustments.

Spot Weld: Plug Weld:

Rich

This advice is well worth remembering. Applies to many applications across your life.

Or buy some dry ice and pack in around/ in. Plenty of options. I guess I am alone in keeping several full sized freezers; one of which is almost always empty and awaiting either a hog or a cow?

hehehe, @Pete M your curse filter is missing a word.

I teach mathematics at the college level. My campus moved to 100% online 4 weeks ago. Based on this, I feel qualified to answer your (possibly?) rhetorical question: College can't be 100% online. Even if you could switch all classes to an online format (and trust me that is extremely difficult, time consuming, frustrating, and only results in a mediocre class setting) classes =/ college. They are a part of it. But not the totality. Kids need to get out on their own, but not completely on their own. They need to form groups, socialize, try new things, make mistakes, and LEARN. Not just class learning, not just homework learning, not just textbook learning, and not just life lessons learning. But all of it together. That is why college can't and shouldn't switch to a 100% online format. Not to mention how much of a pain in the keister it is trying to make a math class fit an online format. I am working TWICE as many hours to get it done. But am only reaching HALF as many students. Let me tell you, this semester is FUBAR'ed. Very badly. And if anyone tells you differently, they are lying. Just imagine if you were teaching Chemistry or Physics. How could you do all the labs that promote learning? *SMH* I can't wait to get back to normal.

Put the other piece in the freezer. Might as well get as much thermal expansion/ contraction as possible if you are doing it.

This happened to me. My problem was the end behind the cluster popped loose during re-assembly. I would check both ends and make sure the cable hasn't come undone, or that the inner core hasn't slipped too far (forward or back) in the protective sheath, so that its not contacting either the gear in the transfercase, or the speedometer .

That is the key IMO. How many 34 year old MJs can be found with no rust? If that claim can be validated, then its worth the price. Everything else is nuts and bolts, which is easy. Pop a 3.4 in there and drive away. However, I would be very concerned with what is hidden. As Minuit has pointed out in his recent threads: rust likes to hide in the sandwich layers of these trucks. But if it really is rust free, then that price is almost a steal.

From a guy that has been married for a long time. This statement is wrong. Accept that its wrong. Start believing that its wrong. Then ask her what a good color interior is. That is the color of your next interior.

https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/JEEP_FUEL_INJECTORS.html This has been vetted and approved of by @Jeep Driver, so its gotta be good. (slight sarcasm there) I have no affiliation, just did some forum searching.