89 MJ

Seems like the starter might not be disengaging quickly enough. What do you mean this happens under acceleration too? It could also be a cracked flex plate or the bolts for it have backed out if you have an automatic.

It is similar to a code reader for a modern engine. It allows you to monitor different sensors and make sure that they are working correctly and fix any issues.

My dad had it in his YJ. It was fine. Both my MJ and Eagle have the collar slid over so the axle is never disconnected. It’s just as, if not more, reliable, cheaper, and won’t negatively effect fuel economy.

That's a lot of switches. Looks good!

You are correct! Here’s the thread for anyone wondering:

It depends on how it was stored. If it was stored rolled up, it probably shrunk and you’d be better off with a new one. If it was stored the way it sits on a truck, it might be worth thinking about more. I think I’d probably go with the new one though.

How are the conditions of the threads on both the t-case and the plug? How tight do you have the plug?

Saw a post that Renix Engine Monitors by @NickInTimeFilms will be back in stock soon. If you have a Renix and don’t have one of these, they are super handy to have.

He’s probably got more than that invested. I’d sure hate to drive it in a headwind or crosswind.

I mistyped, I meant 33x10.50s

Going to lift it more? If not, you might get away with a 31x10.50. I say do it, but only because I want to do the same, I just don’t know if they’ll clear

Your best bet will probably be to call chrome shops and ship it to them to fix it.

You are correct, the 2.5L coolant reservoir is not pressurized. Because it isn’t pressurized, I wouldn’t say replacing the cap is top priority, but should get done sometime soon. I could see the water pump going bad. They typically leak out of the weep hole when this happens, but not always. You could also try grabbing the fan and wiggling it or rocking it forward and back to see if the bearings in the pump are junk. If it’s making noise, it sounds to me like it’s no good though. While you’re replacing that, might want to look at doing a coolant flush and using a rust removal product inside the block to make sure that’s all clean along with the installation of a new water pump. Similarly, the radiator could be getting plugged up. There is a slight chance that the addition of power steering contributed, but there is an underlying issue if adding power steering caused it. The addition of the power steering pump is making the engine work slightly harder. In a stock truck or even a slightly modified truck, you should be able to let go of the wheel at 80 mph regardless of bumps and not have any shimmy in the wheel.

Thank you!

Did that front diff sit in a swap or something?

Looks good!

No luck with that either. Probably will just need to post a screenshot or something.

That I do not know, but I would guess a harbor freight one is good enough. It depends on how long they’ve been without grease. I’d say that you’re probably in need of all new joints. The sway bar bushings and track bar joint definitely need replacing though.

A large factor in this is the backspacing of the wheel, but I believe that 33s fit with a 4.5” lift.

Make sure you are using this procedure:

March 2025 - Another MJ Saved from Doom Project TALOS Owned by @87MJROB Build Thread- Year/Model - 1987 Sport truck Drivetrain- 1994 XJ 4.0/ax15/231 and 1998 XJ D30/8.25 3.55 gears Cooling- all factory new Electrical/Ignition- Stock Suspension/Steering- 3” lift of misc parts. Front- 3” rustys coils, rustys trac bar, roughy country front shocks. Rear- skyjacker add a leaf, XJ lift shackle and stock XJ shocks. Interior- Country/Laredo doors cards, bolstered seats, and dash bezel. XJ parking brake handle. VW beetle b pillar lights. Azzy design gauge faces Brakes- Factory new everything except calipers and booster. Lighting- led headlights off Amazon, led front turn signal bulbs, led side markers, led flasher relay. Exterior- Diy front bumper kit with dirtbound tubing, home made rear bumper with metal I had around plus clevis mounts and hitch receiver. Painted dark metallic copper rustoleum. Cut fenders with two sets of rear TJ flares. Wheel & Tires- For now it has some Cragar soft 8s 17x10 5x5 bolt pattern with 32s but will be getting some stock JK Willy’s wheels with 35s once I get them mounted and balanced. Misc- This truck started as a stripped down blown up 2.5 ax4 2wd shell and I used everything I could from a 1994 xj donor to rebuild it as well as axles from a 1998 XJ. Best MJ story- I don’t know maybe when I saved my third Comanche from a local junkyard where it had sat for 20+ years. CC is Awesome! Why? Because it’s mostly Comanche content Congrats, Rob! This truck turned out very well. Great job saving it.

From a brief look at your build thread, it looks like you’ve got the Westin Fey rear bumper. I’m pretty sure those are still available new. Can’t blame you if you’re wanting OEM though.

If you’re digging parts out, it almost seems like you’ve talked yourself into it

That is one good looking pickup.

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