89 MJ

I do agree with this statement, however, I would have so much other gray stuff to swap in, it would be so easy to just finish the complete gray interior swap. The benches are comfortable too, but the buckets seem a little bit more comfortable.

I need some opinions here and everyone else has been little to no help. I have a complete gray interior with bucket seats and center console that I could swap into my truck, but currently my truck has a blue bench seat interior. I have a non-cracked gray dash that will go into the truck at some point, but it will get dyed blue if I decide to keep the blue interior. My big question is: Should I swap in the gray bucket seat interior? The reason I am unsure is because both of my interiors are in good condition. Usually, it is just me in the truck, and I've only hauled 3 people once, and have no desire to do it again. The truck will be getting a gray tilt column too.

While I have been pulling parts off of it, I have noticed it seems to be a fairly well optioned truck. It has the color matched grill and headlight bezels (looks stock, other than the repaint), body color fender flares (or it did before they were painted), full gauge cluster, bucket seats and a tilt column. Could this truck be an Eliminator? It seems pretty well optioned, even just to be a base or a Pioneer.

I really like this. It looks small and easy to manage. I would guess its a lot lighter than lots of the other ones too.

That’s a loooooooooooooooooooooooong ways away.

Glad to hear it guys!

I can go that. Thanks for the idea!

May or may not be a little jealous.

Frosted flake chicken. I’m telling you, best thing since the MJ.

This one. We run winches with it and even cars without batteries. Had it for years, never had an issue. https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/booster-pac-portable-battery-booster-1500-peak-and-400-cranking-amps-booes5000?gclid=CjwKCAiA9bmABhBbEiwASb35VyEYCEhO76g0vC8pBxH_CfnTAhPekcjtEshYJCFiWayfCRh4IV-lcRoCbd0QAvD_BwE

@Pete M would probably be your guy.

That would be sweet!

Looks like they both do. You better send this guy a message on FB

I wish I could get it, but its a little far for me

Glad to hear that you didn't sell it.

@eaglescout526, need the air box lid?

Oh that interior is beautiful. I love that interior, in a its very 80s kinda way.

Eh, close enough. It would be very cool if you brought 1 and a half MJs But that is a long way to drive a pretty much untested 33 year old truck while towing a trailer. I hope you get cleared!

I want to see pics of the interior

Out of those of us who are going to try to go to the show, how many of you plan on bringing your MJ? I know that I will be bringing my MJ as long as I can make it to the show.

There are so many issues with that, Tim. I'm glad you didn't die though. Seriously.

I was 4 years old and pounding nails into wood blocks when @Dammerung's tires were made. Its time for them to go. Its not safe for you to drive on old tires like that.

Interesting. I didn't even know that. I will be sure to experiment with that some and then create the video on it. Thank you!

Last week we discussed how to completely and correctly remove rust. This week we will continue the trend and discuss bodywork. You will want to use a hammer and a dolly to straighten it if you can get that on it. If you cannot get that on it, look into a Unispotter. This will weld little studs on that you will then hook onto with a slide hammer to pull them out. You will need to use lots of studs, and word a little bit at a time. You need to make sure that you grind all paint/primer off before using the Unispotter. If this doesn't work, use a shrinking tip on the Unispotter to get the dent warm (start with the highest point), then tap it down around the hot spot, use a blow gun to cool it when you are done. This will shrink the metal. Once you get your dents close to straight, sand your whole panel and prime it. I would recommend using a DA Sander if you have one with some 80 grit sand paper. Use scotch brite to get the tighter spots. Depending on how nice you are trying to build your truck, you can either just sand it until the panel is bare metal (typically done on show cars), or just sand it until the primer will bite good (take away the shine). Of course, if you can sandblast it or get it sandblasted without warping it, that is the best way to do it. Now depending on where you are going with your build is going to dictate where you go from here. ***READ THIS PART IF YOU DID NOT SAND TO BARE METAL*** 1. Apply filler where needed, then sand it with 80 grit. Repeat as needed. 2. Sand whole panel with 180 to get rid of sand scratches. 3. Prime panel again 4. Block whole panel with 180. 5. Seal the panel. 6. Paint the panel. ***READ THIS PART IF YOU DID SAND TO BARE METAL*** 1. Prime your panel, make sure it is an epoxy primer. 2. Block the panel out with 80 grit. Use the longest sanding block you can to get your truck laser straight. 3. Apply filler where needed, then sand it with 80 grit. Repeat as needed. 4. Sand whole panel with 180 to get rid of sand scratches. 5. Prime panel again 6. Block whole panel with 180. 7. Block whole panel with 320 to make sure there are absolutely 0 sanding scratches. 8. Seal the panel. 9. Paint the panel.

Will do! Thanks!