AZJeff

T The resistor for the blower motor is a super basic electrical element. The blower has four settings, with the top speed when it's being fed 12VDC directly. The other 3 slower speeds are incrementally lesser voltages, and they are achieved by running 12V through various resistors in the resistor network to drop the voltage down. All of the resistors are fed 12V from the blower motor switch on the heater control panel, and the output of all of the resistors connect to the "B+" side of the blower motor input terminal. These resistors are made of wound nichrome wire, and drop the voltage to the blower motor by taking 12V and turning some of the energy into heat. This is why the resistor network is located inside the heater box plenum, so that air can pass over the wire and keep the resistors from work heat tempering too much with age. (They WILL glow red when certain blower speeds are selected--the amount of energy being dissipated as heat is NOT small.)

Rebuilding the box is more than just new seals and new bearings. Preload and lash on several engagements must be set very precisely, following shop manual procedures. Unless you have all the special tools (or can borrow them), your results may not turn out like you want. As annoying/expensive as it is, it’s far more satisfactory to buy a good reman. box. Pro-tip: don’t get one from Autozone. I have had nothing but bad luck with their remans for my 1991 F-150. When I put a new box on my MJ, I got a Delco reman through Rock Auto, and it was a quality unit. Yeah, it cost a bit more, but it’s been trouble free.

That giant "thing" mounted on the transmission hump appears to be a VERY old commercial two-way radio. The color scheme (gray/brushed silver) and the appearance of the graphics looks very much like what Motorola would have made in the 1960's/1970's. The pink handset is a bit of a mystery, since the Motorola handsets were black, but who knows.... The part on the hump is the control head for the radio. The actual transmitter/receiver would be some other large box (about 18" x 15" x 6") located elsewhere, with an antenna cable attached, probably under or behind the seat in a typical pickup truck installation. I worked for Motorola on the design of two-way radio in the 1980's, and remember seeing some old stuff that looked like that laying around in the development labs.

There is a nice YouTube video on how to change the wheel bearing and axle seal on a D35. The only part you need to pay attention to is the seal part, and that starts at 1:35 How To Replace Your Axle Seal and Bearings I have always used a block of wood to drive in the seal. You cut the block so it's width matches the outside diameter of the seal opening in the axle housing. The wood is soft enough to not damage the seal or the housing bore, but judicious smacks with a machinists mallet or the like will drive it in.

Axle seals on a c-clip D35 are a no brainer. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. All you will need, besides the seal, is replcement gear oil, and some gear-oil tolerant silicone gasket sealant.

The inner fender splash shield for 97+ is available on eBay and other sources as well. Their attachment is pretty self-explanatory assuming you have unmolested fenders and flares.

The dissimilar metals between the steel and aluminum causes the aluminum to oxidize and sort of “weld” itself to the steel. Getting something to dissolve the aluminum oxide (and not trash the base aluminum or the steel parts) is going to be tough. Its for that reason I chose to drill out the corroded and siezed pivot pins.

I got my replacement tank on Amazon. They are all the same for any of the 97+ XJ’s. Most of the ones on Amazon come with pumps as well.

You are in Glendale. There is a place over there that specializes in Jeep used parts. It's called AMC 4x4 Salvage on W. Belmont Ave. I got a front sway bar and a set of ZJ disc brake parts from them in the past. I am pretty sure they will have a steering column nut. Alternatively, you can go to Glendale Auto Parts on W. Orangewood Ave. and scrounge a nut from a GM vehicle using that same older style column.

So what you are saying is that the oil pressure is 85psi or more all the time, and you have confirmed that with both the factory dashboard guage and a separate mechanical gauge? If that is the case, I think the pressure relief valve in the pump must be defective.

Fuse panel issues in the earlier MJ/XJ vehicles are quite common. It would be wise to inspect/repair/replace ALL of the fuse connectors if you find one or more that are already flakey. You want to avoid a rolling campfire situation.

How about going to a junkyard and pulling a couple of nuts off older GM vehicles? I am pretty sure they all have the same thread.

When purchasing old cars, it seems like the general rule of thumb is this: The older the car, the more hacked up the electrical system will be. Previous owners, who in almost all cases do not have a good understanding of low voltage electricity and automotive wiring practices, tend to go crazy with repairs and "improvements" that completely screw up the factory wiring (even as bad as it is on the early XJ's and MJ's). My favorite finds in old cars are the use of twisted and taped connections, follow closely by "wire nuts" intended for residential house wiring to make connections. And if you live in an area that has lots of moisture, "Scotchlock" connectors and unsealed crimp-type butt splices are always fun to find, since they corrode and become intermittent or have high resistance.

That wiring is a COMPLETE disaster, and needs to be fixed before you deal with the refrigerant plumbing.

Go to a real auto paint supply place. AutoZone and the like are not going to have touch up paint for a 30 year old car, no matter what brand of vehicle.

You can fix that tilt wheel aggravation with a little time. Check out this site: http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html Since you have a GM steering column, the procedure applies to your Jeep as well as it does to Chevy's

If the resistor coils get corroded, that is no big deal. If the CONNECTIONS to the coils get rasty, then you have issues. The connections on the "outside" of the heater box, in the passenger compartment, should be relatively immune to moisture that causes corrosion, assuming you are not submerging your MJ/XJ to the point of water getting into the heater box. One KEY issue to consider is the fact that old resistor packs, when they get hot, cause the temper (springing-ness) of the female half of the "spade connectors", which are part of the wiring harness, to become loose. Any resistor pack that has seen excessive heat should be considered a candidate for replacing the female spade terminals on the wiring harness on general principles.

Some more modern cars use a semiconductor regulator to control fan speed, instead of just a plain voltage dropping resistor. Then again, those are a LOT more expensive than the simple resistor network the MJ/XJ. Heater uses.

They are all the same for MJ and XJ vehicle front doors. It’s a Dorman 924-148 for the check. It’s on Amazon. several makers offer the bracket and pin on Amazon as well

That looks great. A side benefit of late model XJ windshield trim is there is no chance for rust around all the stupid clips that hold the bright garnish molding on.

Backfiring is usually a sign of a lean mixture.

The door checks themselves will wear out on XJ/MJ vehicles and start making poppin noises. The fix is a new door check, and probably a new bracket where the check arm attaches to the “A” pillar. New door checks can be had from several sources.

Pete M is giving you the most methodical approach to finding the source of the DW. It's less expensive than just hanging parts at random until you find the culprit. When you follow his suggestion and have your friend saw the steering wheel, it sometimes helps to place your hand around each steering joint. That way you can feel actual motion between the two parts of the joint. You can also do this at each end of the track bar. It's kind of hard to inspect the bushings on the OEM control arms, so they might need to be removed (one at a time) and visually inspected and replaced as needed, but I would do that as a LAST step.

I am going to retract my previous statement about not replacing lifters. I found a website where a Jeeper replaced lifters sucessfully without any adverse effects. If you cannot clean the lifters (or it's too much of a PITA), then new lifters is probably not a bad idea after all. And now I understand why you called them "studs" They are actually double ended bolts. The head portion is a permanent part of the threaded shank, which makes them a bolt instead of a stud and nut.

LOTS of good points here. If the oil supply is good (clean pan and good pump) I would look for piston slap to be the noise source. My 4.0 will slap on a hot restart for 30 seconds or so, in spite of clean lifters (with a new head) and more than adequate oil pressure. The slap goes away (mostly) once the temperature stabilizes again, and does NOT get louder once the engine comes off idle. i forgot about theBD motor mounts I put in one of my XJs—-if you tighten the center bolt to spec, the engine will shake the chassis like all get out. And DO NOT buy the ones with a urethane isolator—stay with the rubber ones.