AZJeff

Sway bars are not tough to find/install, since they are the same as those on the Jeep XJ Cherokee. It will be a junkyard item, of course. Lots of the guys who do serious off-roading remove their sway bars to increase articulation. Maybe someone with an XJ who does off-roading will have one you can pick up. Since the truck you picture is lifted, you will need extended sway bar links.

Any caliper that has sat unused for any length of time is probably going to leak when put in service again. I would just plan on getting reman'd calipers if I were you. The discs would probably be OK, once you cleaned them up. I used a vibratory sander to clean the rust off of mine, and hand sanded in the parking brake drum portion. (Then again, this is in AZ, where rust on junkyard parts usually isn't very significant.) I would also opt for new parking brake shoes if you are wanting to get the parking brake functional. You will need to figure out how to use KJ or ZJ cables in conjunction with (probably) an XJ parking brake equalizer. That's what I did on my disc conversion on my MJ (and what I also did on my XJ before.)

In a race application, it would be best to add in a manually adjustable proportioning valve. Remove the factory stuff from inside the factory distr. block, and add in the prop. valve. There is NO real diffference is width between disc and drum setups on the same axle. One question, though: you say you plan to buy the disc conversion stuff for less than $100. I assume you mean you will acquire the calipers, mounting brackets, and rotors from a ZJ from a junkyard. If that is the case, you might want to spring for rebuilt calipers if the junkyard ones have been sitting around a while. Also, do you plan to incorporate the drum parking brake, so just skip that since it is a race truck?

For my rear panel, I used a piece of "masonite" hardboard (I had the old piece as a template, but you can figure out the size without the old one if you use cardboard to mock it up.) I covered the masonite with black headliner material. Carpet is a bit more durable, but either one will work. For the headliner, I had previously done the headliner in my 2000 XJ, so I knew how to do it. I bought OEM color headliner off of eBay, and some 3M headliner adhesive. Then I scraped/brushed all the old headliner off the foam board backer they use to support the fabric. Once it was clean, spray the adhesive and roll out the headliner material. Then roll it over the edges and attach again with adhesive. Trim as needed. Just be REAL careful not to get adhesive on your hands while doing this, as it transfers dirt to light colored headliner material instantly.

CORRECT. Antifreeze contains chemicals that perform at least two important functions: 1. keeps corrosion from building on engine block and other metal parts of cooling system 2. lubricates seal on water pump Plain water cannot do that, even if it is distilled.

The original “orange” antifreeze was GM Dexcool, and was intended for use in GM vehicles that had aluminum cyl. Heads. Then along came antifreezes with HOAT, and some of those also happen to be orange, but are NOT the same as Dexcool. Both Ford and Chrysler use HOAT type coolants now, as do some foreign brands. They are NOT always orange. Some types of coolants do not mix well, and can cause damage. Dexcool is for sure among them. The primitive engines in the MJ/XJ do not need, nor do they benefit from, HOAT type coolants. Plain old “regular” green coolant is quite acceptable. if you vehicle has orange coolant in it, and you don’t know if it’s HOAT, Dexcool, or something else, don’t add green stuff to it. Instead, flush and restart with fresh green stuff. And RV antifreeze is intended for use in the water systems of RV’s. As such, it’s not poisonous to humans. It also is very poor as a coolant for internal combustion engines.

You must have a different connector than I have/had. On my 2000XJ, and my MJ that sports a 2001XJ engine/PCM, the connector is NOT a hermitic seal. If oil leads out of the sender, it will weep out around the connector body where it slides over the plug half on the sender.

The PCM on a 2000 XJ is located over by the air filter and is sandwiched between the air filter and the inside fender wall. How is just the center connector (“C2”) going to get oil contamination? In fact, how are ANY of the 3 going to get oil in them?

Where did you get those cute switches with the graphics?

You can pull the coil rail and stick a plug into one of the rubber sockets (hold it in with some tape) and then ground the end of the plug. If you see no spark there, then it's time to check the coil pack itself. (There are actually THREE coils in the pack, by the way.) The coil receives 12VDC whenever the key is "on", and the PCM controls the firing of the coils by grounding the lead from a given coil via a "drain" wire that goes to the PCM. Because of this, there are 4 primary wires that go to the coil rail: ---The dark green with orange tracer wire is the 12V feed from fuse #18 in the power distribution center. ---The gray wire is the "drain" for coil #1, and goes to pin 7 on connector C1 on the PCM ---The dark blue with tan tracer wire is the "drain" for coil #2, and goes to pin 9 on connector C2 on the PCM ---The red with a yellow tracer is the "drain for coil #3, and goes to pin 1 on connector C1 on the PCM If you measure between the 12V feed pin on the coil pack to any of the other "drain" wires, the impedance should be 0.71 to 0.88 ohms.

Yes, but they will have to be from a 96 or older XJ, unless you want to modify your floor pan to accept the later XJ seat bases.

The welded nubs don't interfere, but the metal or plastic clips that slide over the nubs to attach the old bright metal trim must be removed. (You want to do that anyhow, since they promote rusting around the nubs.)

I 'think' the OEM trans coolers were mounted low in front of that AC condenser, and had two rubber lines connected to it. At least that is where is was on my 2000XJ. My aftermarket on I put in my MJ runs up and down along the driver's side of the grille (in front of the condenser) and is about 8" wide and 12" tall, give or take.

Make new ones from 1/16” polyethylene sheet stock, using the old one as a template. Cut with scissors and exacto knife. polyethylene sheet can be purchased on Amazon.

I explained this in detail earlier, but Eagle was more concise in his explanation. To repeat: changing to the rubber trim found late style XJ’s CAN be done, but it requires a NEW WINDSHIELD be installed.

The later XJ-style rubber trim actually has a groove in it that slips over the perimeter of the glass before the glass is bonded to the windshield opening in the body. Often, the adhesive holding the windshield in also bonds the rubber trim to the glass, making salvage of existing rubber trim problematic/ Owing to this, the only way to really install this trim is to get a new piece, and then do it at the time of glass installation. Installing glued-in glass isn't too tough, provided you have the right urethane adhesive. It's the removal of the existing glass is where your challenge will be. Getting the glass out WITHOUT CRACKING IT is bit tricky, since the cured urethane that attaches the glass must be cut around the entire perimeter, and the the glass must be lifted out. Once the glass is out, the urethane residue on the glass must be completely removed (or nearly so), so that the new urethane bead applied in the body opening as a clean, flat surface upon which to bond. If you are not familiar with removing bonded in glass, I would defer this to a auto glass company. You will be much happier with the result, and won't risk breaking your glass taking it out and reinstalling it.

I have the entire 1990 FSM if you would like a copy. All we have to do is figure out how I can post it somewhere.

T The resistor for the blower motor is a super basic electrical element. The blower has four settings, with the top speed when it's being fed 12VDC directly. The other 3 slower speeds are incrementally lesser voltages, and they are achieved by running 12V through various resistors in the resistor network to drop the voltage down. All of the resistors are fed 12V from the blower motor switch on the heater control panel, and the output of all of the resistors connect to the "B+" side of the blower motor input terminal. These resistors are made of wound nichrome wire, and drop the voltage to the blower motor by taking 12V and turning some of the energy into heat. This is why the resistor network is located inside the heater box plenum, so that air can pass over the wire and keep the resistors from work heat tempering too much with age. (They WILL glow red when certain blower speeds are selected--the amount of energy being dissipated as heat is NOT small.)

Rebuilding the box is more than just new seals and new bearings. Preload and lash on several engagements must be set very precisely, following shop manual procedures. Unless you have all the special tools (or can borrow them), your results may not turn out like you want. As annoying/expensive as it is, it’s far more satisfactory to buy a good reman. box. Pro-tip: don’t get one from Autozone. I have had nothing but bad luck with their remans for my 1991 F-150. When I put a new box on my MJ, I got a Delco reman through Rock Auto, and it was a quality unit. Yeah, it cost a bit more, but it’s been trouble free.

That giant "thing" mounted on the transmission hump appears to be a VERY old commercial two-way radio. The color scheme (gray/brushed silver) and the appearance of the graphics looks very much like what Motorola would have made in the 1960's/1970's. The pink handset is a bit of a mystery, since the Motorola handsets were black, but who knows.... The part on the hump is the control head for the radio. The actual transmitter/receiver would be some other large box (about 18" x 15" x 6") located elsewhere, with an antenna cable attached, probably under or behind the seat in a typical pickup truck installation. I worked for Motorola on the design of two-way radio in the 1980's, and remember seeing some old stuff that looked like that laying around in the development labs.

There is a nice YouTube video on how to change the wheel bearing and axle seal on a D35. The only part you need to pay attention to is the seal part, and that starts at 1:35 How To Replace Your Axle Seal and Bearings I have always used a block of wood to drive in the seal. You cut the block so it's width matches the outside diameter of the seal opening in the axle housing. The wood is soft enough to not damage the seal or the housing bore, but judicious smacks with a machinists mallet or the like will drive it in.

Axle seals on a c-clip D35 are a no brainer. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. All you will need, besides the seal, is replcement gear oil, and some gear-oil tolerant silicone gasket sealant.

The inner fender splash shield for 97+ is available on eBay and other sources as well. Their attachment is pretty self-explanatory assuming you have unmolested fenders and flares.

The dissimilar metals between the steel and aluminum causes the aluminum to oxidize and sort of “weld” itself to the steel. Getting something to dissolve the aluminum oxide (and not trash the base aluminum or the steel parts) is going to be tough. Its for that reason I chose to drill out the corroded and siezed pivot pins.

I got my replacement tank on Amazon. They are all the same for any of the 97+ XJ’s. Most of the ones on Amazon come with pumps as well.