AZJeff

The original “orange” antifreeze was GM Dexcool, and was intended for use in GM vehicles that had aluminum cyl. Heads. Then along came antifreezes with HOAT, and some of those also happen to be orange, but are NOT the same as Dexcool. Both Ford and Chrysler use HOAT type coolants now, as do some foreign brands. They are NOT always orange. Some types of coolants do not mix well, and can cause damage. Dexcool is for sure among them. The primitive engines in the MJ/XJ do not need, nor do they benefit from, HOAT type coolants. Plain old “regular” green coolant is quite acceptable. if you vehicle has orange coolant in it, and you don’t know if it’s HOAT, Dexcool, or something else, don’t add green stuff to it. Instead, flush and restart with fresh green stuff. And RV antifreeze is intended for use in the water systems of RV’s. As such, it’s not poisonous to humans. It also is very poor as a coolant for internal combustion engines.

You must have a different connector than I have/had. On my 2000XJ, and my MJ that sports a 2001XJ engine/PCM, the connector is NOT a hermitic seal. If oil leads out of the sender, it will weep out around the connector body where it slides over the plug half on the sender.

The PCM on a 2000 XJ is located over by the air filter and is sandwiched between the air filter and the inside fender wall. How is just the center connector (“C2”) going to get oil contamination? In fact, how are ANY of the 3 going to get oil in them?

Where did you get those cute switches with the graphics?

You can pull the coil rail and stick a plug into one of the rubber sockets (hold it in with some tape) and then ground the end of the plug. If you see no spark there, then it's time to check the coil pack itself. (There are actually THREE coils in the pack, by the way.) The coil receives 12VDC whenever the key is "on", and the PCM controls the firing of the coils by grounding the lead from a given coil via a "drain" wire that goes to the PCM. Because of this, there are 4 primary wires that go to the coil rail: ---The dark green with orange tracer wire is the 12V feed from fuse #18 in the power distribution center. ---The gray wire is the "drain" for coil #1, and goes to pin 7 on connector C1 on the PCM ---The dark blue with tan tracer wire is the "drain" for coil #2, and goes to pin 9 on connector C2 on the PCM ---The red with a yellow tracer is the "drain for coil #3, and goes to pin 1 on connector C1 on the PCM If you measure between the 12V feed pin on the coil pack to any of the other "drain" wires, the impedance should be 0.71 to 0.88 ohms.

Yes, but they will have to be from a 96 or older XJ, unless you want to modify your floor pan to accept the later XJ seat bases.

The welded nubs don't interfere, but the metal or plastic clips that slide over the nubs to attach the old bright metal trim must be removed. (You want to do that anyhow, since they promote rusting around the nubs.)

I 'think' the OEM trans coolers were mounted low in front of that AC condenser, and had two rubber lines connected to it. At least that is where is was on my 2000XJ. My aftermarket on I put in my MJ runs up and down along the driver's side of the grille (in front of the condenser) and is about 8" wide and 12" tall, give or take.

Make new ones from 1/16” polyethylene sheet stock, using the old one as a template. Cut with scissors and exacto knife. polyethylene sheet can be purchased on Amazon.

I explained this in detail earlier, but Eagle was more concise in his explanation. To repeat: changing to the rubber trim found late style XJ’s CAN be done, but it requires a NEW WINDSHIELD be installed.

The later XJ-style rubber trim actually has a groove in it that slips over the perimeter of the glass before the glass is bonded to the windshield opening in the body. Often, the adhesive holding the windshield in also bonds the rubber trim to the glass, making salvage of existing rubber trim problematic/ Owing to this, the only way to really install this trim is to get a new piece, and then do it at the time of glass installation. Installing glued-in glass isn't too tough, provided you have the right urethane adhesive. It's the removal of the existing glass is where your challenge will be. Getting the glass out WITHOUT CRACKING IT is bit tricky, since the cured urethane that attaches the glass must be cut around the entire perimeter, and the the glass must be lifted out. Once the glass is out, the urethane residue on the glass must be completely removed (or nearly so), so that the new urethane bead applied in the body opening as a clean, flat surface upon which to bond. If you are not familiar with removing bonded in glass, I would defer this to a auto glass company. You will be much happier with the result, and won't risk breaking your glass taking it out and reinstalling it.

I have the entire 1990 FSM if you would like a copy. All we have to do is figure out how I can post it somewhere.

T The resistor for the blower motor is a super basic electrical element. The blower has four settings, with the top speed when it's being fed 12VDC directly. The other 3 slower speeds are incrementally lesser voltages, and they are achieved by running 12V through various resistors in the resistor network to drop the voltage down. All of the resistors are fed 12V from the blower motor switch on the heater control panel, and the output of all of the resistors connect to the "B+" side of the blower motor input terminal. These resistors are made of wound nichrome wire, and drop the voltage to the blower motor by taking 12V and turning some of the energy into heat. This is why the resistor network is located inside the heater box plenum, so that air can pass over the wire and keep the resistors from work heat tempering too much with age. (They WILL glow red when certain blower speeds are selected--the amount of energy being dissipated as heat is NOT small.)

Rebuilding the box is more than just new seals and new bearings. Preload and lash on several engagements must be set very precisely, following shop manual procedures. Unless you have all the special tools (or can borrow them), your results may not turn out like you want. As annoying/expensive as it is, it’s far more satisfactory to buy a good reman. box. Pro-tip: don’t get one from Autozone. I have had nothing but bad luck with their remans for my 1991 F-150. When I put a new box on my MJ, I got a Delco reman through Rock Auto, and it was a quality unit. Yeah, it cost a bit more, but it’s been trouble free.

That giant "thing" mounted on the transmission hump appears to be a VERY old commercial two-way radio. The color scheme (gray/brushed silver) and the appearance of the graphics looks very much like what Motorola would have made in the 1960's/1970's. The pink handset is a bit of a mystery, since the Motorola handsets were black, but who knows.... The part on the hump is the control head for the radio. The actual transmitter/receiver would be some other large box (about 18" x 15" x 6") located elsewhere, with an antenna cable attached, probably under or behind the seat in a typical pickup truck installation. I worked for Motorola on the design of two-way radio in the 1980's, and remember seeing some old stuff that looked like that laying around in the development labs.

There is a nice YouTube video on how to change the wheel bearing and axle seal on a D35. The only part you need to pay attention to is the seal part, and that starts at 1:35 How To Replace Your Axle Seal and Bearings I have always used a block of wood to drive in the seal. You cut the block so it's width matches the outside diameter of the seal opening in the axle housing. The wood is soft enough to not damage the seal or the housing bore, but judicious smacks with a machinists mallet or the like will drive it in.

Axle seals on a c-clip D35 are a no brainer. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. All you will need, besides the seal, is replcement gear oil, and some gear-oil tolerant silicone gasket sealant.

The inner fender splash shield for 97+ is available on eBay and other sources as well. Their attachment is pretty self-explanatory assuming you have unmolested fenders and flares.

The dissimilar metals between the steel and aluminum causes the aluminum to oxidize and sort of “weld” itself to the steel. Getting something to dissolve the aluminum oxide (and not trash the base aluminum or the steel parts) is going to be tough. Its for that reason I chose to drill out the corroded and siezed pivot pins.

I got my replacement tank on Amazon. They are all the same for any of the 97+ XJ’s. Most of the ones on Amazon come with pumps as well.

You are in Glendale. There is a place over there that specializes in Jeep used parts. It's called AMC 4x4 Salvage on W. Belmont Ave. I got a front sway bar and a set of ZJ disc brake parts from them in the past. I am pretty sure they will have a steering column nut. Alternatively, you can go to Glendale Auto Parts on W. Orangewood Ave. and scrounge a nut from a GM vehicle using that same older style column.

So what you are saying is that the oil pressure is 85psi or more all the time, and you have confirmed that with both the factory dashboard guage and a separate mechanical gauge? If that is the case, I think the pressure relief valve in the pump must be defective.

Fuse panel issues in the earlier MJ/XJ vehicles are quite common. It would be wise to inspect/repair/replace ALL of the fuse connectors if you find one or more that are already flakey. You want to avoid a rolling campfire situation.

How about going to a junkyard and pulling a couple of nuts off older GM vehicles? I am pretty sure they all have the same thread.

When purchasing old cars, it seems like the general rule of thumb is this: The older the car, the more hacked up the electrical system will be. Previous owners, who in almost all cases do not have a good understanding of low voltage electricity and automotive wiring practices, tend to go crazy with repairs and "improvements" that completely screw up the factory wiring (even as bad as it is on the early XJ's and MJ's). My favorite finds in old cars are the use of twisted and taped connections, follow closely by "wire nuts" intended for residential house wiring to make connections. And if you live in an area that has lots of moisture, "Scotchlock" connectors and unsealed crimp-type butt splices are always fun to find, since they corrode and become intermittent or have high resistance.