AZJeff

Here is the diagram from the 2000 XJ shop manual for the four door. I suspect a two door is the same, minus the other wires to the back doors.

I have the ones for a 2000 XJ, which should be the same. Do you want just the diagrams for the wiring, or the pin-outs for the connectors as well?

For an item that wears as much as a door check, I would not even THINK about using one from a junkyard when new ones are still available. I got mine from either Team Cherokee or Quadratec, I cannot remember which, but they were OEM.

I checked the shop manual for the 1988 NP207 and NP231 transfer cases. They both show a gear type pump attached to the output shaft of the transfer case. This would imply that, whenever the rear propeller shaft is turning, the transfer case lubricant is be moved by the oil pump contained therein. That means it's safe to flat tow a Jeep with one of these transfer cases indefinitely without fear of damage due to lack of lubrication.

I am about 95% certain your response is correct. The NP231 has a pump oil pickup point at the bottom of the ‘driven’ chain sprocket, and the pump is part of the output shaft. That means anytime the rear driveshaft is turning, the pump is running, regardless of what position the TC selector is in.

Epoxy and some thin aluminum sheeting cut/bent to shape (and glued to the inside of the piece) works well for this type of stuff. I have done that on several spots, and on my door panels as well.

The bushings on both ends of my leaf springs are looking pretty sad, and I was getting ready to order some new ones from Rock Auto, but the Moog part number they list and the dimensions listed for that part number are GROSSLY bigger than what's in the springs right now. So for starters: 1. do the XJ's and the MJ's share common spring bushing sizes? 2. does anyone have the CORRECT Moog part numbers to use (or some alternative, quality brand?)

Late factory spec. for the XJ/MJ caster is 7 degrees preferred, with a range of 5.25 to 8.5 degrees allowed. The max. difference in caster from one side of the vehicle to the other is 1.25 degrees or less.

I will admit I don't have the parts manuals for any of the Jeep MJ/XJ family. Also, I have never worked on any drum brakes in a Jeep except in my 1992 and 2000 XJ's--never any on my MJ. As I said, the pictures in the manual specifically called out exploded views of the 9 inch and ten inch brakes, and the adjuster levers and their cable assemblies "looked different" in the small pictures presented. I have worked on a bunch of old Ford's I have owned that used Wagner style adjusters, so I kind of jumped to the conclusion that one was Wagner and the other was Bendix based on the pictures. Sorry about putting out slightly bad info, but the part about the adjusters being marked "R" and "L" still applied.

The author of the article doesn't know his Jeeps. He meant to say "basically a Cherokee in Comanche clothing." There is nothing Grand Cherokee about my MJ except the fuel filler neckt, which is from a 1996 ZJ. I will see what I can do about taking some more snaps of the bumpers and add them in.

I dunno. That's what it shows in the shop manuals for the MJ from back in the day. The manual says the metric ton brakes were larger than the rest. I know there is a difference in the adjuster levers and their cables between the Bendix style and Wagner/Lockheed style drum brake systems. The pictures in the shop manual (as small as they are) seem to show the Wagner style adjusters on the metric ton axles.

The following link is to a website where a guy wrote up a web article about my 1989 MJ. I ran into him totally by accident when he was doing a photo shoot for the Jeep marketing guys about the Gladiator, and he saw my Comanche on the road and decided it was worth writing about it. https://www.averagesquad.com/blog/2020/1/8/jeffs-jeep-comanche

The adjusters on the brakes have a left side version and a right side version. They are marked on the end of the threaded shaft portion of the adjuster. Don't mix them up, or your self-adjusting function will become a "self UN-adjuster". On all the XJ/MJ vehicles (except MJ's with the "Metric Ton" package), the lever on the cable that is part of the self-adjusting mechanism is supposed to pull UP on the outside edge of the "star wheel" that is part of the adjuster. That means to tighten the brakes once assembled, the adjuster "spoon" (or screwdriver substitute) should turn the inside edge of the star wheel DOWNWARDS when you reach in through the slot on the backing plate to do the adjusting.

That cladding does not ride at the actual crest of the body accent line in the sheet metal. That means it’s not going to protect the body from door dings completely.

I got a replacement TV cable for the AW-4 on Amazon. I think it was an Omix-Ada branded part. It's not quite as nicely constructed as a Mopar cable, but it functions correctly. By the way, they are LOTS of fun to change if someone has tie-wrapped the cable to the trans tunnel above the transmission body. Digging around up there to free up on the old cable was a nightmare for me.

Gotcha. I don't have them on my MJ because I have aftermarket flares, so they looked alien to me to begin with.

Do these things hold on the OEM flares?

No doubt the Mishimoto is an excellent radiator, but it IS PRICEY, at over $400. Rock Auto carries a CSF all metal radiator for the late style XJ type open cooling system that costs about $250. I used one of those in my 2000XJ and my current MJ. Here in Phoenix, they do the job just fine under the hardest of conditions, as long as you have good coolant, hoses, and the correct thermostat. I feel that it's a case of cost/benefit ratio. The Mishimoto doesn't bring enough to the party to justify the added cost.j

Agreed. I was astounded how screwy an AW-4 can act when the TV cable slips back and forth from it's proper setting. It makes you think your trans is completely shot.

I don't think it is actually a fuse. It's a self-resetting circuit breaker, and it should pull straight out and have blade type connectors on it.

That's a nice write-up, Eagle. If the rest of your document is that concise, I want to encourage you to put it out there for others to leverage as a knowledge base for MJ/XJ owners. Stuff like this is starting to become a treasure for a vehicles that is at LEAST 19 years old, and possiby much older, nowadays.

If you are really trying to "restore" and MJ to factory new condition, the website the OP cited is a good place for some of those weird esoteric connectors. However, they are PRICEY, like REAL PRICEY. If you are like me, and your objective is to make a reliable, functionally complete MJ, there are other connectors that can be had for much less money and will do the job much better than the crap AMC used back when MJ's were being assembled in Toledo. There are oodles of waterproof connectors with pigtails on them that can be soldered and heat shrunk into the wiring harnesses out there. I got mine from Amazon when I redid the harness that feeds the fuel pump and rear tail lights.

Same here. I was uncertain how the balance would be since I already had no original MJ load sense valve. I found that swapping to discs resulted in surprising good balance.

In general, I don't recommend that most of us here attempt to rebuild the actual Saginaw steering gear box. There are some special tools and procedures that need to be used/followed, and most of us don't have that stuff. It's easier to get a good used junkyard box, or if you are wealthy, buy a remanufactured box from a trusted source. (I do NOT recommend Autozone, as I went through 3 boxes from them for my 1991 F150. Rock Auto has AC Delco remans, and they seem to be OK.)

I am familiar with twisted pair wires and how they are supposed to function. Given they are not supposed to be in close contact with other circuits, I would assume they would be in their own separate harness, and not part of any other wire loom(s). I will look to see if that is the case in the stuff on the back of the instrument cluster wiring.