AZJeff

I am two for two using CSF. Neither had the issues reported by the OP. if I was the OP, I would return thatrad. and insist on a different one from Rock Auto.

CSF rads use a regular cap. I personally would not use a junk yard cap, given that an appropriate 16lb cap is so inexpensive at all the big box auto parts stores.

I agree with Eagle. I am betting other parts are FAR more likely to be the cause of your issue before control arms and their bushings.

That might work in NC. Here in AZ, dry rot on a 20+ year old hose is almost certain.

I wouldn't put a junkyard hose on an AC system except under duress. The combination of possible contamination, along with dry rot, make it a poor choice.

The most commonly recommended course of action here for ANY reports of wandering is to do a thorough examination from underneath the vehicle. This requires a helper to do it well, and here is the method: Have the helper sit in the vehicle, with the steering column unlocked. His/her job is to turn the steering wheel back and forth JUST ENOUGH to load all the steering linkage to the point where the wheels are starting to move off of center. While they are doing that, you are lying under the vehicle and doing a visual examination of every joint or fitting in the entire suspension. A flashlight helps to see motion between the two parts of the joint. Also, any rubber joints that look dried out/cracked and distorted are targets for replacement, regardless of relative motion. I also like placing my hand around the steering linkage joints. Don't use a death grip around the two parts, but be firm enough that you can feel relative motion between the two parts of the joint.

What did they use for the OEM carb. back then? Just curious.

Another one more knowledgeable than I when it comes to very early Comanche's and Cherokee's.

One more knowledgeable than I has spoken. Good post.

The AW-4 neutral switch is attached to the gear select shaft, not like what is shown in the above photo. Of course, the AW-4 was used with the 4.0L straight six. I don't know which auto trans was used on the V-6 equipped MJ/XJ vehicles, and don't have a shop manual that goes that far back. Sorry...

I can appreciate doing that job under less-than-ideal conditions. It's a HUGE PITA.

This activity is where an air hammer with a slitting type chisel tip works WONDERS at getting those bushings out.

Original sub-model is unknown to me. It's a SWB. Now equipped with 4.0L/AW-4/NP231 from a 2001 XJ. Front axle is low pinion D30. Rear axle is D44. Front sheet metal and doors are from 2000 XJ, as is dashboard/console. Vehicle is painted in color found on 2011 JK called "Mango Tango Metallic" Now sports 3.5 inch lift, ZJ rear disk brakes, and 17" "Moab" wheels from Jeep Wrangler. I use it as a semi-daily driver, with my 2014 JK as a backup.

I painted mine with “trim black” and it looks great. But... my wedding ring (made of tungsten) wears off the paint on the inside. Oh well.....

I also recommend lubricating the release cable. Take the cable off the bell crank, and use some lubricant down the end of the cable and work the cable back and forth. i use a lubricant intended for bicycle control cables. Doing this lessens the pull force quite a bit.

The method Dzimm is suggesting works quite well, and can be tucked up next to the rail of the "uniframe".

Anything better than a rattle-can paint job needs to have all rust neutralized/removed and any holes repaired before painting, or it will come back quickly. if you plan to add oversized fender flares, any cutting, etc. for those should be done before painting.

That is a REALLY FIRST CLASS job of fitting that OHC into the MJ roof. I had an XJ with that long console, and the one I have in my MJ now came with the vehicle (but not connected) and is the "mini" one, with only some map lights, and no thermometer/compass. I like yours much better!

Down here in AZ, there are a bunch of smaller (semi-micro brewers) who offer some good IPA's: San Tan Brewing "Moon Juice Galactic IPA" (Chandler, AZ) Dragoon Brewing "Dragoon IPA" (Tucson, AZ) Mother Road Brewing "Tower Station IPA" (Flagstaff, AZ)

Add washers to space it properly. Crushing the shackle will make for problems if you have to disassemble it later.

I would definitely recommend the ZJ steering parts (tie rods & drag link). i do not think there is any difference between ZJ and MJ/XJ ball joints. i hate the design of the factory track bar where it attaches to the bracket on the chassis. If you can afford the scratch, I would upgrade to an adjustable track bar and corresponding bracket that does away with the ball and socket joint on the chassis end.

I have labeled the chassis pieces in the attached photos you took. I suggest you go to Rock Auto, because they will show you pictures of the parts offered, and you can match not only the names of the parts, but you can confirm the appearance.

Good point, especially if you are running larger wheels and tires and/or have a significant lift.

There isn’t a kit, per se. you just purchase all the pieces for each subsytem. —upper and lower ball joints for the axle —tie rod ends and drag link Ends for the steering —complete track bar i would go to Rock Auto to get the parts. The Moog brand would be among the selections available, and is a very good choice.

Ahhhh.....OK. So can you send us a pic of your cowl and the hole that needs plugging? WIth more details, I might be able to suggest a solution other than welding.