AZJeff

This is the place!! THANKS.

The following website can tell you what gear you need: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm You might try all the usual sources for the speedo gear. I got mine from Quadratec, but that isn't the only place nor always the cheapest. The silly gear is really expensive considering what it is (a big custom plastic molded gear), and generally will set you back $25+ new.

There was a thread I saw recently where someone was offering decals that mimic the style used on the later XJ's on the front doors. These graphics would say "Cherokee", of course, on an XJ, but this person had created a version that used a similar font/size that said "Comanche" Does anyone remember where these were being offered for sale?

Yeah, I think I am going to go that route. It will get me the correct lengths, and a bit more caster, which, as you say, is a good thing in my book as well. Thanks.

Your problem is an easy one to fix. The link mentioned above (and reposted below) will do the trick, but you might need to fab your own relocating brackets. I have already done this on my MJ:

I already took out the springs, and inspected them when I replaced the coil isolators where the top of the spring seats on the chassis, so I know the springs are fine. (Other than the fact that they are bowed slightly forward when installed, resulting in the close proximity to the track bar bracket.) I am positive that the XJ/MJ, as designed, had more than 1/4 inch of the clearance between the outside diameter of the coil and the track bar bracket, and that the bowing of the springs is not normal. I am leaning towards one of two explanations for why the coil spring is bowed/arced forward: 1. crappy Rusty's springs that are not straight. 2. forward can't to the lower spring seat, causing the spring to be tilted forward on it's bottom end. (The upper and lower seats are, in essence, not parallel at normal ride height.) Since the spring is NOT bowed when I remove it from the vehicle (it rolls on the concrete floor quite nicely), I am discounting explanation #1 above, and am tending to think #2 is my issue. I am thinking the canted spring seat is being caused by the axle being tilted forward beyond the recommended/designed angle. Since my UCA's are longer than recommended for a 4 inch lift (but my LCA's are at the recommended length), the longer UCA's are pushing the top of the axle forward and causing the axle tilt. I am inclined to buy new UCA's, but want to make sure that investing in some good aftermarket ones will actually fix the issue, so I am seeking experienced inputs here.

I have been chasing a "sproinging" sound in my front suspension for a while, and did a whole bunch of upgrades/repairs trying to eliminate it. These included: 1. new control arm bushings (and they bolts are torqued to spec., and maybe then some) 2. new spring isolators 3. new bump stops (jounce bumpers) 4. new track bar ball joint end 5. new shocks All of this has been to no avail, (not that those parts didn't probably need to be made better anyhow.) But my issue remains. When I go over a curb (or other similar road bump), I get a "sproing" type of sound from the left front wheel area. I did some searching around under the front end, and I noticed two odd things: 1. the front springs are curved/arched slightly forward when the vehicle is at normal ride height. (These are "Rusty's" brand springs with a nominal 4 inch lift, but I cut about 3/4 of a coil off to achieve a slightly "nose down" attitude on the truck when unloaded.) 2. the clearance between the coils and the OEM style track bar bracket is really pretty small, at about 1/4 inch. I attached a picture that shows the clearance. I repainted the two parts, and took it for a test drive over some curbs in the neighborhood, and when I got back, I could see there is some paint rubbed off both the spring and the bracket. This is not my first rodeo with the XJ/MJ, so I checked by control arm lengths. The lift was on the Jeep when I got it, so I wasn't sure what to expect. I found the UCA has a length of 15.8 inches, and the LCA's are 16.2 inches. From what I know about recommended lengths for a 3.5-4 inch lift, this makes the UCA's too long by about 0.8 inches. I know that changing to a shorter UCA could cause the lower spring seat to rotate rearwards, and that would decrease the forward arch of the spring. But would it remove the close fit between the spring and the track bar bracket? Input from knowledgable XJ/MJ suspension wizards is appreciated here. If I am going to buy new parts, I want them to fix the issue once and for all. Clearance.pdf

That is not automatically a requirement when converting an R12 system to R134a. While the newer hoses do have a barrier membrane in them to prevent leaking of the smaller R134 molecules, it’s well known that old R12 hoses that have been saturated with R12 type refrigerant oil are pretty sealed from R134a leakage. On a 25+ yr old vehicle that had working AC most of its life, the oil saturation potential is pretty high. Otherwise, the comments from “Minuit” are pretty much spot on.

The least “scary” method is to use the FSM approach. Disconnect the track bar and drag link and sway bar links. Then support the chassis on tall jack stands. Place floor jack under axle, and disconnect the lower shock mounts. Then loosen all control arm pivot bolts and lower axle as needed to remove spring tension. Depending on spring free height, and control arm length, the upper arms may need to be disconnected from the axle end. I have done what you are proposing with spring compressors, and its much less anxiety-inducing to do it the way I described above.

That is correct. Heim joints do NOT have any sort of seal to keep out moisture or grit. Because of this, they wear out VERY fast in regular road use.

How practical/easy is it to create drastically different caster angles between the 2 sides of the front axle?

My 1992 XJ had the "skinny" type turn signal/CC control stalk, for what it's worth. I remember because the switch died in it, and I had to order and install a new one back in about 2001.

The concept that someone would think that other moving chassis parts hitting the gas tank is an acceptable situation just mystifies me. NOTHING good (or even acceptable) is going to come out of that condition. It needs to be fixed by some means. PLEASE do not consider this a “livable” condition, even in the short term.

That’s a bit more sporty,

Follow up to my original post: I put the new CPS on, and the machine fired right up and stayed running. I even think the slight irregular idle I was seeing is bone as well. Thanks for the advice, guys.👍

You autocrossed an XJ? Cool. Yes, I am being a smart @$$.

Off to order a Mopar CPS through Amazon

My Chero-manche has the engine/trans and control system from a 2001 XJ in it. It was running great, and passed it's annual emissions test a few months ago. Now that the weather is warming up (above 70* here in AZ), it has a weird behavior. It will start and run, and then while sitting and idling, it will die. A restart usually requires a couple of tries, and sometimes some throttle to get it going. Once it restarts, it's fine, usually. Today it started normally and then died, and now it won't restart. It doesn't throw any OBD-II codes. Here is what is new to the engine control system in the past 12 months: new IAC, new MAP sensor, new TPS (all Mopar). New spark plugs (Champion OEM). The fuel pump runs and is less than 2 years old (Bosch OEM type). I am thinking the issue is some sort of sensor I have not replaced (some of the sensors I found on the machine were not Mopar, and I know that can be an issue for durability on the XJ.) The FSM doesn't say anything, since Chrysler has a totally separate manual for emissions systems that I don't have, and it interfaaces to their "DRB Scanner", which I don't have. I am looking for advice from anyone with OBD-II diagnostics. I am leaning towards the CPS, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.

Adjustable control arms are employed when the vehicle is lifted beyond an inch or two above stock ride height. (They are needed to restore the proper steering caster angle.) Higher lifts are generally used when tires MUCH larger than normal are fitted. You say you want to run larger tires. How much larger did you have in mind?

I used SEM paint on the MJ interior pieces to get them to match the "Agate" gray color of my 2000 XJ dashboard. The result was perfect.

I think a LOT of how well a used engine performs has to do with the junkyard in question. The really good junkyards pull good engines from low-mileage vehicles and store them indoors. The lesser bone yards let the potential buyer find the engine out in the vehicle, exposed to the elements, and let him take a chance...

I agree with Dzimm. There is a real good possibility to obtain a very decent engine from a junkyard, in which case, rebuilding your old engine becomes unnecessary, or at the very least, a low priority. Many junkyards will offer some level of warranty on a used engine, which would increase the confidence in buying used.

You are probably right. I am being anal retentive about wanting to get the caster angles back to as close to OEM as possible, and smaller spacers help me do that. i could leave it as is, and I can "live" with it. I guess I am sweating the small stuff here.

The actual vertical load imposed on the hub assembly "should" be carrried by the shoulder of the hub that fits inside the bore of the steering knuckle. The bolts that attached the hub to the knuckle are primarily there to keep that shoulder inside the bore, and "probably" don't carry much of the load of the vehicle down into the front wheel. That means a clearance cut made in the edge of the hub (away from the bolting tabs) probably won't affect the integrity of the hub. I have attached a sketch of what I am thinking of doing, and the dark semi-circular line on the edge of the hub represents the cut I would make. Anyone want to comment about this idea? Hub.pdf

I was wondering about the idea of cutting (via an end mill) a clearance cut on the "fixed" portion of the hub in one location that would allow the old studs to be pressed out, and new longer studs pressed in. So you think that is feasible without trashing the hub integrity, huh?