eaglescout526

Oh yeah they can! The drivers side is a challenge so long the contact isn’t broke or damaged but yeah they absolutely can be rebuilt.

What’s good about this is both ford and GM used these buckles so they’re abundant to rebuild if your internals break.

Hahaha apparently 2. The skinny one believe it or not is the body shop manual.

Just to add to the jealousy haha.

Well yes. They’re not gonna reprint AMC on what they own. They’re gonna brand them all with Mopar. Interesting enough, you could go to the parts counter and order these books. More than likely this is one of those situations where it was ordered to either replace a torn up AMC catalog or a customer wanted such. I have AMC parts books of 84-85 and 86-87 of Jeep. 88 in mopar. Ooooo so that’s what the 91-92 service manuals look like.

Yes. My 84 has it. AMC used it from 84 to early 87. It changed to the later small prop in late 87 early 88.

I’d give the end that goes from the battery to the relay a good clean too along with the other eyelets bolted to the relay. Do let us know if anything changes. Hmmm, I’d almost test the ignition input from the ignition switch to the relay.

This is the black cover. Where I’m pointing is the general area of where the starter relay is.

Nooo. That’s the ignition switch. starter relay is under the hood, by the battery and two or 3 or 4 relays under a black cover(if you still have that cover). Typically there’s 2 relays. Fuel pump and B+ for the O2 heater. Other two would be AC and fog lamps. Starter relay has a big mess of wires on it.

Correct. The starter relay wouldn’t do much of anything. Would provide power everywhere else as it’s the hub of all the electrical on the Jeep. That being said it also sends a crank signal to the ECU and power to the fuel pump. It also has ground there as well that goes to the dipstick tube which grounds out at the firewall and by the alternator on the block to the battery. Id definitely check the battery cables to and from the battery and to the starter relay to make sure there’s no corrosion at all. These things don’t like any sort of resistance what so ever as I stated in my first reply.

Interesting. I did mine the same exact way with no issues to how my headliner sits.

Really? Course I only covered the middle sheet metal section and not the cross bars that’s support the roof and other structural parts. But my headliner has no fitment issue.

How’s the battery and its cables? Grounds cleaned? Usually if you can’t get it to crank at all, it’s usually due to a dead battery or corroded connection. Doesn’t take much for the little 2.5’s to not crank and start.

Oh yeah I forgot about this. yes there’s some Velcro at both front and rear.

If your fuel gauge isn’t working, check and clean the ground behind the drivers side tail lamp.

Nope. Nothin holds up the back at all. Front is held by the visors and the clips, the pillars basically hold it up. Maybe the headliner is weak in the center?

Gotta know the ins and outs of the beast to conquer it. Haha. That and the TBI is a misunderstood one too. I can imagine that ground for you is dirty if it hasn’t been touched for the past 40 years.

How’s all the bushings back there for the leaf springs? Shackle bushings? How about the U-bolts? Sounds like to me the rear end isn’t securely in place.

Those don’t look factory. At least the terminal connections don’t. The ground cable goes to the engine block by the alternator. That’s where it should be from the factory. Then you have the ground strap from the block to the firewall. Then you have all the sensors ground at the dipstick tube. The. The blower motor, wipers, lights and a few others are grounded out at the drivers side. But with yours being an 86 that may not be entirely standard yet. positive should go to the starter relay and starter itself.

Before I offer my old ones that need the studs pushed out on the flare brackets, have you looked to see if there’s new ones for the XJ being made?

I wouldn’t suspect the ICM just yet. I’d be more suspect of the battery cable. These Jeeps hate any and all resistance to the electrical system. I like to rule out electrical like ground and power resistance before pointing at a module or sensor.

Added some door handle bezels. These are power window, come from the rears of an XJ but perfect if youre doing just power windows or locks. They are for the HO era meaning you will need to find a 5 pin EATON switch.

Ouch.

WA seems to have all sorts of crazy vintage goodies. There’s an Eagle up the road from my MILs house.

Not exactly. My favorite method is to remove the injector and see but you could remove the line at the body or even the plug where a gauge would go.