eaglescout526

Which probably means your door check is busted and the door opens wayy father than it should.

Hahahahaha lol. You have my very delayed approval.

Chunk I believe has the set up already actually. But I didn’t get a good look as I was laying in soaking wet grass looking for rust holes lol. I couldn’t even get any info off the diff tag to see what ratio it is. But the idea was for little red as I am getting fed up with the internal system.

Sounds good! I appreciate it! I would source all this stuff myself but just the clutch fork eludes me.

Well, I figured that idea was common knowledge lol. Thats probably your best bet to do. Unless both locks are coded differently. Had that happen. Passenger side was different than the driver.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-Jeep-AM-Radio-OEM-NOS-Original-8956002467-Used/154134031915?hash=item23e31aae2b:g:crIAAOSwHfdfghB~ https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-Jeep-AM-Radio-OEM-NOS-Original-8956000746-Used/392975337369?hash=item5b7f27c799:g:puwAAOSwTxBfgg-7 Lol. "NOS" followed up with used. Thats one way to grab everyone's attention.

I did respond to that question. So if it smooths out when it’s warm but it’s rough when cool and doesn’t change with the wire off or on, I would definitely say it’s a safe bet that the intake or exhaust valves have gunk on them and are sticking open until warm. Head needs a good cleanse and rebuild.

A good tip for when looking for front end and underhood parts is to try an XJ. Sounds odd but honestly more aftermarket recognizes the XJ than they do the MJ.

Excellent! And for taking your VIN to the dealer and cutting your key, I am not sure what they will be able to pull. I seem to have lost that function since I’ve returned to the dealer but there’s a few steps they have to do to get a code and the keys are no longer available. I have never tried to pull a key code for myself so I don’t even know if Chrysler has the codes for our locks. You can try by all means but I can not guarantee it’ll go how we would like it to.

Yeah I can see PNW stuff being rust piles. There’s a really clean MJ Laredo by my girlfriends house in Everett that the lady has owned since new and it’s pretty clean, well taken care of and probably no rust.

The vent problem can easily be the plastic line from the cab to the vac ball behind the bumper could be rotted and gone. Usually when that system has no vac, it defaults to defrost mode. My truck had a GM key and ignition cylinder, wasn’t sure why. As for the door keys though, don’t swap those cylinders out yet, it could very easily be something stuck with the latch mechanism. Suspect the latch mechanism to be dirty and in need of lubrication and cleaning. That tach sitting at 2k is correct behavior for that cluster of the time period. The tach on the early clusters have a circuit board on the back of them so when it loses power it just goes to a default position. 84-86 clusters have some weird behaviors to them. Clean up the grounds, take the cluster apart and clean the contacts for the gauges and they might act right or better. Also engine grounds too as the sensors themselves rely on those.

I mean if it had the correct mirrors and seats sure we could move on to the engine. Now as far as collectible, it has the LEAST desirable engine. I’m sure folks would buy a diesel quicker than a blown 2.8L. I would imagine the 2.5L in an early XJ will be more sought after. A 2 door though is pretty uncommon so I can see it being a collectible faster than the 4 door like my 84.

Yeah I have. The later style uses a different set up that requires me to change the bell. The 84-86 external set up just has me drop the trans, swap the input shaft cover and put in the external set up with the bell house and done. I already have the external slave and trans cross over pipe.

Greatly appreciate it!

Bump. Any one found anything of this vintage lately with an AX4/5?

Run through Cruisers tips. Also check O2 sensor and the condition of the valves and the springs. I had an issue where Cyl 3 intake valve would stick until it warmed up and would causes a rough idle. Also its Throttle Body Injected. Carbed 2.5L went away in 86.

I wish this was fake too but I opened up marketplace and saw this power for used coffins. Had to see the description. Thats enough marketplace for one day.

Whoops. Thought I clicked the ebay section.

Listed to fit an XJ but it is an MJ bench seat cover. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seat-Hinge-Cover-55009135-Jeep-Cherokee-NOS/124374009413?hash=item1cf544c645:g:KWQAAOSwOCdff-gK

Does the company really say you have to cut the radiator support?! Factory ones just bolted in behind the bumper with a very reinforced bracket.

My father and I cut a big enough hole in that spot because the flag but rusted apart.

Lol yeah it definitely is. Which means sometime by the mid 90's Chrysler stopped servicing those alts. Honestly, not sure if I could bring myself to install this alt if I ever needed to.

I get that. But rest assured this came from a dealer in your state too. Berthrod Motors and it sat on their shelf since '93.

It was $60 for a NOS 74amp reman alt for my 2.5L

150 CID AMC 2.5L I4. Pet peeve of mine. Anyways So I would check your belt tension, it can be adjusted via the Power Steering bracket or the alt bracket if you have AC. Only 84- early 86 2.5L has the V-belt set up and that set up is obnoxious and slightly nerve-racking when you watch the belt flop up and down with the AC on. As for those pesky vibes. Is it just in 5th around 50-60 mph(80-95kph) or is it specifically 5th gear? I have some pesky vibes still at 45+ and I've changed damn near everything suspension related except the front coils and the passenger leaf spring. Honestly, I think those vibes are just the age of the vehicle and the balance that is the 2.5L. I recommend replacing everything that is rubber, so engine mounts, trans mount, bushings, coil to body bushing. If its rubber, replace it. No urethane. Wouldnt hurt to have the drive shaft balanced and your tires checked too.