eaglescout526

Wasn’t there already a Beatles and zeppelin? But I side with the Beatles. Jay Leno or Johnny Carson?

Pig. “Trouble with tribbles” or “Trials and tribble-ations”.

Lol I know you’d have me jump ahead of them, no biggie. But really? That clutch design was used up until then? Talk about if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. What do you use as replacement material? Now I agree with you on VFDs. Much better and softer glow and pretty retro-future looking. But I’ll take the old fashioned bulb and tuner. Lol I’d be very surprised if you had any knowledge tucked away about old vac tube radios.

Lol something tells me Minuit would tell me to not send him anything with tubes in it lol. But yeah I know your KJ has that and suffice to say I think its pretty awesome.

Lol thanks for that Pete. It is an AM only radio, so I am unaware of any bluetooth devices that work with AM. It will go to any of the preset stations currently set. Just tuning is a challenge with this clutch based system. I will keep trying at it. I had to drill holes into the chassis just to get the clutch unit out. Now taking it all apart is not happening. Maybe with the clutch unit out I will be able to better glue in the gasket material and go from there.

This thing is officially aggravating me.(What I am holding in the pliers) This is the clutch disc piece that a clutch like friction material goes in and is cemented to both discs. Theres a bar that actuates it and pushes it together so you can tune it. When you push the preset buttons said bar will separate the two discs to allow for the preset to slide to the station it is set for. Pretty neat but for the absolute love of Henry Ford can I not either seem to find a good friction material or get it all to set right. I have been following this guys steps: 1955 - Motorola - 5MFS8 - Radio Repair | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models I have tried two types of gasket paper now and the most recent has been fiber like gasket paper. I give Motorola credit for the design of this radio but the mechanism for the tuner with a clutch is proving difficult to repair. I got sandpaper to work pretty damn good till I realized it was sanding down the discs. Any thoughts? And yes this is the original radio.

I have one of those. Surprised it sold fast.

I have an AX5(duh) but I have been running Mopar 75w-90 in it for a few months now. No problems.

I looked a little bit further and found this. I remember finding this but kinda forgot about it because all it says is the motor oil helps with shifting properties. Nothing about the synchro's

I am gonna break it up into sections for better reading Yes, I know I selected 2.5L but I still get the same bulletins regardless.

1992 is how far I can go back to our Jeeps but here is something about the manual trans AX15. I even dove further to confirm what I found is the only instance of the manual trans and its fluid and went all the way up to a 2002 TJ where the AX15 wouldve been used last and found nothing in regards to a fluid change. If there ever was, it is long gone and clearly no longer a concern with Chrysler to take care of those trans with the possibility of GL5 fluids changing to suit transmissions.

Not weird. That’s essentially what they are.

Looking back on the catalog, I distinctly remember Chrysler labeling the senders as switches now that I take the time to think as I pull parts.

You have senders. Sender are paired with the lights and sensors are paired with the gauges.

That’s normal.

No problem. Happy to share the knowledge stuck in my head.

Precisely. HOrnbrod did a write up on an adjustable one that won’t have the plastic clips brake in the future.

Well it’s a good part to have. Most bypass it but it works as it should if it still works. It can be tested by disconnecting the rod and zip tying it upward for maximum “load” to per say. If you stop faster and quicker, it works. If you stop the same then something is wrong with it and it’s not giving more braking power.

They are on? Like all the time while driving? They only illuminate with key on, at start up and if there’s an issue.

That’s what we famously call the height sensing valve. It is for the rear brakes. It’s so that way when you have a heavy load, you’ll get better braking in the rear than the front. It doesn’t have anything to do with the axle other than the rod connected to it to help move the height valve up and down.

Yes. That’s it, it’ll tell you what you need to know. If your gauge cluster has lights, it has senders for both oil and temp. The senders are based on Ohm resistance and they start to illuminate the lamps when they reach a certain Ohm. Same goes for the sensors but they send a constant signal to the gauge to read right. It’s fun simple stuff.

Messing with the odo isn’t hard at all. There’s a diy on it too and it involves removing a C-clip. You’ll just need to get the oil and temp sensors and not senders.

It’s only weird because we’re young and used to seeing a million gauges and lights in a modern car. It was weird to me the first few weeks with my truck till I got used to it. Kinda fun watching the needle bounce as you took turns and bumps. But then I found a 5/6 cluster that still had the large gas gauge and then the full blue cluster. There’s something about that gas gauge that like to hang up at 3/4 and then start reading. Not sure what.

They are all manual and dependent on the sensors in the engine bay. There’s a write up somewhere on it. Only the later 91-96 clusters depend on the ECU. I could be wrong on this but I am not an HO expert.

Why not swap it now? It’s all plug and play literally. The blue full clusters are hard to find in the 87-90 config but easier for 84-86. The red ones for 87-90 are easier to be hard and are abundant.