eaglescout526

There’s lots of unofficial MJ decals that dealers could slap on to help the sales of the MJ back in the day. Course this was during the AMC era mostly and not the Chrysler era.

I think I could say the same exact thing you said and agree wholly. Now when I do go to paint mine, it will become BE(CO Red) with the same color striping around the side windows of the Pioneer graphics.

I am learnin that the shell has its benefits and what not but it became clear to me that I love the look of our MJ's without the toppers.

Lol that’s fair and I understand. The XJ is practically the same way.

I hate this phone sometimes. It guesses what I want to say worse than what my 6 did. It thinks I mean king instead of long despite what I’ve typed.

I feel kinda attacked here lol. I love my long bed. I think everything about it looks right. But the short bed to me looks odd. To each is there own.

*X1 TRIM STYLE X1 - CLOTH BENCH -SA Charcoal 169 Zone 69-Phoenix 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail ALA APA Monotone Paint BAQ 61 AMP ALTERNATOR BCX Battery BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CBA Straight Back Bench Seat CKJ Black Vinyl Floor Covering CSR Passenger Assist Handles CUM Mini Floor Console DBB All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission DHN Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJH 230MM Front Axle DMM 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJ Dana M 35 Wide Rear Axle EAA All Engines EAF ALL FUEL INJECTED ENGINES-GAS ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror GRV Left Manual Mirror GUA Open HCD Do Not Use - See HCA JAZ DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KWW T: BRILLIANT WHITE - NAMEPLATES - W LAP Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBC Glove Box Lamp LCJ DOME/READING LAMP B-PILLAR LMA Halogen Headlamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFF Black Grille MHB Bright Windshield Moldings MMC Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMG Belt Moldings MMJ DRIP TROUGH MOLDINGS - TYPE I NAF High Altitude Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF5 Fuel Tank - 23 Gallon PX8 Black Clear Coat QX8 Black Clear Coat RA8 Delete Radio SBA Power Steering SCB Steering Whl SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers TAA All Tires TBB Full Size Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TNC Tires WJK 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels WLY All Steel Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YEP Manuf Statement of Origin YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z5A GVW/Payload Rating Z65 Left Front Group XIV Z84 Right Front Spring Group XIII Build date 7/26/89 Body code JL62

Wasn’t there already a Beatles and zeppelin? But I side with the Beatles. Jay Leno or Johnny Carson?

Pig. “Trouble with tribbles” or “Trials and tribble-ations”.

Lol I know you’d have me jump ahead of them, no biggie. But really? That clutch design was used up until then? Talk about if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. What do you use as replacement material? Now I agree with you on VFDs. Much better and softer glow and pretty retro-future looking. But I’ll take the old fashioned bulb and tuner. Lol I’d be very surprised if you had any knowledge tucked away about old vac tube radios.

Lol something tells me Minuit would tell me to not send him anything with tubes in it lol. But yeah I know your KJ has that and suffice to say I think its pretty awesome.

Lol thanks for that Pete. It is an AM only radio, so I am unaware of any bluetooth devices that work with AM. It will go to any of the preset stations currently set. Just tuning is a challenge with this clutch based system. I will keep trying at it. I had to drill holes into the chassis just to get the clutch unit out. Now taking it all apart is not happening. Maybe with the clutch unit out I will be able to better glue in the gasket material and go from there.

This thing is officially aggravating me.(What I am holding in the pliers) This is the clutch disc piece that a clutch like friction material goes in and is cemented to both discs. Theres a bar that actuates it and pushes it together so you can tune it. When you push the preset buttons said bar will separate the two discs to allow for the preset to slide to the station it is set for. Pretty neat but for the absolute love of Henry Ford can I not either seem to find a good friction material or get it all to set right. I have been following this guys steps: 1955 - Motorola - 5MFS8 - Radio Repair | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models I have tried two types of gasket paper now and the most recent has been fiber like gasket paper. I give Motorola credit for the design of this radio but the mechanism for the tuner with a clutch is proving difficult to repair. I got sandpaper to work pretty damn good till I realized it was sanding down the discs. Any thoughts? And yes this is the original radio.

I have one of those. Surprised it sold fast.

I have an AX5(duh) but I have been running Mopar 75w-90 in it for a few months now. No problems.

I looked a little bit further and found this. I remember finding this but kinda forgot about it because all it says is the motor oil helps with shifting properties. Nothing about the synchro's

I am gonna break it up into sections for better reading Yes, I know I selected 2.5L but I still get the same bulletins regardless.

1992 is how far I can go back to our Jeeps but here is something about the manual trans AX15. I even dove further to confirm what I found is the only instance of the manual trans and its fluid and went all the way up to a 2002 TJ where the AX15 wouldve been used last and found nothing in regards to a fluid change. If there ever was, it is long gone and clearly no longer a concern with Chrysler to take care of those trans with the possibility of GL5 fluids changing to suit transmissions.

Not weird. That’s essentially what they are.

Looking back on the catalog, I distinctly remember Chrysler labeling the senders as switches now that I take the time to think as I pull parts.

You have senders. Sender are paired with the lights and sensors are paired with the gauges.

That’s normal.

No problem. Happy to share the knowledge stuck in my head.

Precisely. HOrnbrod did a write up on an adjustable one that won’t have the plastic clips brake in the future.

Well it’s a good part to have. Most bypass it but it works as it should if it still works. It can be tested by disconnecting the rod and zip tying it upward for maximum “load” to per say. If you stop faster and quicker, it works. If you stop the same then something is wrong with it and it’s not giving more braking power.