eaglescout526

That MJ and the other you found has some goodies *X1 -YY 3LY ADB PROTECTION GROUP PACKAGE AGJ Driver Assistance Group AHL HEAVY DUTY INSUL PACKAGE APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE AWH POWER EQUIPMENT GROUP BCQ Battery - 750 Amp Maintenance Free CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DGS TRANSMISSION-4SPD. AUTO,AISIN WARNER ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MCA FRONT BUMPER GUARDS MCB REAR BUMPER GUARDS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NHM AUTO SPEED CONTROL NHQ Transmission Heater PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT WJN 15" Aluminum Wheels Build date 8/30/87 Body code TM61 Sold by CLOVERLEAF CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP, DECATUR AL

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ AJT RADIO PREP GROUP AJY Popular Equipment Package BAC 75 AMP ALTERNATOR BCQ Battery - Maintenance Free CGW CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual DMN 4.10 Axle Ratio EFB ENGINE - 2.8L GM 6CYL GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JFH TACHOMETER - MECH JGB Clock - Digital JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MLDGS - VINYL LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED MFD BRIGHT GRILLE - TYPE I NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE Build date 8/13/85 Body code JM62

NP228/9 came behind the AX5 for the 84-86 years. It’s the selec-trac t-case

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ BAC 75 AMP ALTERNATOR BCQ Battery - Maintenance Free CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ CLE ACCESSORY FLOOR MAT - FRONT &&&&&&&& REAR DGF H D A904 AUTO TRANS EFB ENGINE - 2.8L GM 6CYL GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MD8 Delete Front License Plate Bracket NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NFA TANK - 20 GAL FUEL NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY RCA MONAURAL SPEAKER SYSTEM SBA POWER STEERING Build date 4/6/86 Body code JL62

It’s an Apple file. He will either A need to convert it or B throw it in day OneDrive and post a link to it

I greatly appreciate that! Gotta look out for each other.

Jeez Pete nightmare fuel much? Glad you’re doing ok though!

To be fair there’s not much chrome left on them. I mean one had more than the other but I haven’t seen anything abnormal going on. But do we even know if those lamp manufactures used chrome plating for the reflectors? I’m genuinely curious if that’s what is used.

Says the retiree, ironically hahaha.

I ran one of the ROLs reflectors through a vinegar bath and I even watered the solution down to help save it, like I said they were in bad shape at the bottom so I wasn’t expecting anything great. They came out fine aside from the massive pitting that vinegar creates. But it will without a doubt take off the chrome and it made them the perfect primer grey for any paint application. Now I will have to report back on the electrolysis when they finish up and see if that takes off the chrome or not.

I think it is a chrome plating. One of the reflectors for my Marchals for chunk is horribly degraded in a way where the reflective material is coming off in chunks. Currently running them through electrolysis to hope for the best on them. Fun fact, Jeeps weren’t the only ones with Marchals. Fords and GMs of the same time could also have them.

I think I asked this a while back when I had a set. Now I’m trying to restore some Marchals. You should be able to get away with repairing and restoring them. Someone in here recommended some sort of reflective chrome like spray paint for the reflector.

Nice!

Dana/Spicer is the way to go for axle and drive train related parts.

I mean when you got a few different types of people who sell things. those who just want it gone those who don’t know what they have and just want it to go to a good home and then you start getting into those who know what they have.

Given that the TJ is also going up in value, that’s probably a steal for some folk on your side of the country if it’s a clean rust free TJ.

I think that’s when everyone realized that the quality and quantity of modern crap looking Jeeps have really shown the poor imagination and style that Jeep once had.

I used to have rims like that. Painted them a matte black and ran them for a bit. Till I found the 5 spokes. Looks nice. Definitely an 80’s piece.

You’re a slacker Mcfly!

Hahahaha I know who the seller is of those.

Want a 'QUARTZ' clock but can't find the one that fits in a late 87-90 but have an 84-86 blue connector clock? Well here's the quick easy solution: 1. Your clock Tools and parts needed: 1 Set of wire strippers/cutters 1 Set of ratcheting barrel crimpers 1 8 slot female 150 metri-pack connector(PN 12045688 in the delphi/mouser catalog) 1 retainer to secure wires in connector(The white thing, PN 12045690) 5 male metri-pack terminal(PN 12047581(0.80-0.50 cable range) or 12059894(0.50-0.35 cable range), which ever works just one holds smaller wires) 2. Now I was very very fortunate enough to find that Chrysler/AMC made a connector adaptor to use the newer clocks with the older harness connector. Using this harness I was able to piece together which wire goes where seeing how the newer clocks don't have the same color wires as the older ones. Old vs new 3. Go ahead and snip that blue connector off like so: 4. Using the wire strippers, strip back the wire insulation to reveal some wire for the terminals. 5. Take your ratcheting barrel crimpers using the right terminal crimper attachment(I honestly don't know the name or number for the crimper teeth, it was a cheap set that has proven very good quality, do forgive me for not knowing such). Using said attachment and the beautiful thing about the ratcheting crimper is that you can set the terminal in the teeth and squeeze the handle to where the terminal will stay snug in place for you to push the wire through the termial and then crimp the terminal and wire together. End result should be like so: 6. Now that your wires are crimped to the terminals, it is now time to put them where they need to go. Black wire needs to go to the A slot in the connector Orange in the B slot Red in the C slot Like so: 7. Once those are in, flip the connector over to install the last two wires Yellow into the G slot Blue into the F slot Like so: 8. Once all the wires have 'clicked' into place and won't come out with a little tug you are ready to install the wire plug to prevent the wires from coming out, like so: Plug is omni-directional so it will go in either way unlike the other metri-pack connectors 9. Now you should have a successfully converted clock ready to install in your truck for some absolute 80's goodness and class I had already previously converted a clock to test this so it all works as they should when you plug the clock in.

I have one of those, not entirely sure what to do with it.

When you say drivers side manual do you mean the one with the remote inside the door or one that just manually moves on the outside with your hand? I have an aftermarket one that you move the mirror on the outside for cheap if you want that to get you by.

No one else? I mean I still plan to make the DIY. Thought more would chime in. Stay tuned, I should have it ready by tonight or tomorrow.

Done. I must’ve missed that one.