boxyjeep

There is a chart online for control arm lengths at various lift heights to meet the stock caster. Keep in mind that you also have to balance front driveshaft pinion angle.

I had issues with them when I bought a 7120 head back in mid 2020. They didn't fully drill/tap the temp sensor hole in the back of the cylinder head. I called them up and they wanted me to drill the hole out deeper. I told them that was BS for something that should be ready to bolt in and they gave me a hard time about a replacement. I think they likely have too much business now to worry about customer service and customer happiness. Would suggest looking elsewhere.

Bumpers have Rigid LED pods and shackles attached. Everything all installed: So now the truck is 99% complete on the exterior. I still need to re-attach the drip rail covers, but otherwise the exterior is done. Outstanding items to address: Brakes are shot. This is more evident with the increased power/speed from the stroker engine. Will be installing WJ booster/master cylinder and Wilwood proportioning valve, along with rear load sensing valve delete. Need to connect the transmission brake switch--currently disconnected. Need to pass smog and get it registered in CA. Address a handful of small electrical issues inside the truck--parking lights don't work, power locks, etc. Future mods: "Low" SOA in rear--looking to net ~5-6" lift. Will match the front with XJ kit. Install a set of newer Cherokee heated/power leather seats (in my garage--need to fab up some brackets). Build a new non-disconnect HP D30 with WJ brakes/steering. Regear and install front locker. New 33" tires on slightly wider wheels. Will not be going beyond 33" or doing any fender cutting.

Wrapping up the tailgate: Before: Decal installed (from jeepsticker.com): New black painted handle installed: Also, this is not the original tailgate from the truck. I bought this from a CJ enthusiast in Long Island NY who got it from a friend. It was from a white 91-92 HO MJ and in absolutely pristine condition. I paid too much for it, but couldn't pass it up as my tailgate had a nice convex shape to it... My original tailgate--saved to mount to the wall in the garage at some point:

Now that the truck was running relatively well, I wanted to wrap up the exterior. I had a spray-in bedliner installed. Before: After: I also decided to sell off the JCR front winch bumper and winch. While I do intend to take this truck offroading a bit, I hope to never get stuck or go it alone. Also, this will be on the road 99% of the time and I thought it looked a bit gaudy. Instead, I bought an XJ/MJ JCR Crusader front bumper to go with the rear MJ bumper. Sanded and primed. Also bondo'ed up the logos to keep a sleek look: I originally went with a Rustoleum black semi-gloss epoxy paint, but could never get the finish to look right. Ended up sanding a bit to get it looking better and finally gave up and went with Rustoleum Hammered black paint. I used this before for the grey bumpers and liked the finish. Sanded (again): After: Also decided to paint the grill insert black. My painter had painted it all the same color as the body. Also pulled off the tailgate handle and hardware to remove paint. The supports are aluminum and not painted from the factory (and easily chip). The handle should be black. Original: Paint stripper: Had to do a handful of coats of this. The product is not very good anymore due to low VOC regulations.

Time for an update as a lot has changed since my last post. I moved back out to SoCal (southern Orange County) and immediately ordered a new crate stroker from ATK. While Golen and other vendors have a better reputation, the ~$3k price tag and warranty for the ATK unit just made sense. Unfortunately, there was a ~2-3 month backlog, so after ordering the engine in late November, the truck sat while I wrapped up some minor projects with it. The truck will be getting smogged and registered in CA. Unfortunately, this requires VIN and emissions stickers (which I removed and discarded when I had the truck painted). I created these in Photoshop/Excel and had a sticker shop print them. The bar codes scan and all info is valid. Also ordered some new tail light lenses from Key Parts and installed them on my existing housings. My old lenses were severely faded. Also upgraded to LED bulbs. After that, the truck went off to get the new engine installed. This took about 3 weeks and ran into a few issues--the shop misaligned the intake manifold and broke a few brackets/bolts that were painful to track down. After getting it back, there were a few things I had to adjust. It was also clear that the 19 lb injectors were too small. If you ever have the problem where the PS bracket won't line up with the water pump, it's because the intake manifold isn't fully seated on the dowel pins. It also is likely that your intake was cracked because of this.

No. You would need to swap over a ton of the electrical system for this to work. While possible, it will take significantly longer than just pulling your engine harness and fixing the issue. Use the 88 Electrical Manual that someone linked above.

There is a company called "Key Parts" that makes replacement lenses (about $185 for a pair). They are brand new and recently manufactured. The downfall is that you have to use your old housings and remove the cracked lens. If you don't have good housings, eBay or some of the FB Comanche groups is your best bet. Lowest I typically see if ~$200 for a usable (but not mint) pair.

Nice! I just replaced the lenses in my truck with new ones from Key Parts. Was planning to do a write-up, but it looks like you beat me to it. Looking good :-)

Wondering the same thing--I have "high" knock in my truck. That document that Ohm shared shows between 10-100 at 2500 RPM. Does that sound right and does it correlate to the reading from the REM?

Ditch the valence. You’ll thank me later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck. The only way to find the connectors for the through-firewall harness is from another one. Very tough to find those pins anywhere online. Everything else is viable though.

This is why I took everything off of my truck before sending it to the body shop. They may damage or do other weird stuff. I remove the bumpers, fender flares, vents, door trim, mirrors, cowl panel, everything.

Got mine ordered. Green with rocker panel.

Was impressed until I saw under the hood

I did it in my truck. It's not as simply as just swapping the shifter... You need a new steering column and the new cable linkages.

Swapped it over with generic rivets. The plastic covers it.

Anyone 3D printing the housings yet? I'm going to feel bad chopping mine up...

Name your price. Located in Orange County.

Bought a set of reproduction lenses and want to avoid chopping up my somewhat decent set. Just need the plastic housing, broken lenses is fine. Will take one or both.

Not sure, but have a feeling that it’s either a “no” due to age or super expensive. What year/model is your truck? I’ve got a template I can share. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn, you got yours already? Mine is still somewhere in UPS land. Hopefully get it this week. Went with the black trim.

Might be able to get it registered (but not titled in CT). They don't title vehicles over 20 years old, and there is no smog/inspection for that age either. But you can register pretty easily. After you get it registered there, bring the registration to CA to get it titled there. I'm going through this right now with a somewhat similar situation (but my truck IS in the CA system as of ~2019).

What voltage is coming from the O2 sensor? If it's not varying, it's a bad O2 sensor.

What are your plans for rear suspension? SOA seems super high. SUA is probably too low.