ghetdjc320

Here’s mine. This is a Mach 1 hood scoop grafted in. It’s a pretty squared off scoop and looks good with the body lines.

For the most part you can swap with gauge clusters from the same or similar years. 91 and up is what I’m most familiar with and the gauge clusters are interchangeable with XJ 91-95. Pre 91 was the Renix years and this site is full of Renix experts who can say for sure but I believe they also swap across the years 90 and earlier.

Also, do you have the little rubber vent hose connected to the motor?

Fastenal has them but they are also in the hardware section of pretty much any auto parts store. Just keep in mind that it’s best to use a screw/bolt with a flat shoulder. Anything with a angled shoulder can crack the plastic lens very easily. I’d start by finding the best fitting fastener and then find the appropriate sized nut/clip. Socket head bolts worked well for me. Most parts stores refer to the clips as “speed nuts”

I used an off the shelf clip with a stainless socket head screw and it’s a perfect fit

If you mean the long screws that thread into the plastic nuts in the door panel, team Cherokee normally carries them. I bought all my sets through them and picked up a spare set recently since they always seem to go bad when removing the door panel

I’ve seen fuel cells installed in the spare tire location

I was the one working on those covers. I have the full diy write up on how they are made in the diy section. Haven’t had time to work on them further but the template your looking for is in that thread. The switches can be had new from rock auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,electrical-switch+&+relay,fog+lamp+switch,4408

Looking for a 96 and up 4.0 fuel rail. Need the return less style fuel rail to install an external fuel pressure regulator. Let me know if you have one. Thanks!

Oh, and strokedjeep.com does awesome work with throttle bodies. I’ve bought 4 from him over the years

I don’t know how far you want to go with bolt-ons but stand alone efi is really a good way to make sure your mods actually add anything. My 4.0 has an Edelbrock aluminum head, bored .060, shaved deck, mild cam, roller rockers, 99+ intake, JBA TJ down pipe, 24# injectors and many other bolt ons but my biggest “power adder” was my 4.56 gears and Detroit truetrac out back. Stand alone efi is my next plan after hydroboost brakes.

Right front tire went from 35 to 0 psi lol. That probably changed things up a bit . The toe in and caster is really the only thing to set on these axles and doing it yourself often times results in a more thorough job than any shop will do. Not sure what the load rating is on your tires but my guess is they are now overinflated.

It’s a press fit. An open ended wrench that barely slips over the tube normally works. Put the pump in a vise and use the open ended wrench to tap the tube into the housing. Or better yet, get the tool for it. Once it’s all the way in you can hit it with a single rack weld for added security but it’s not a necessity.

Lol, some people are skeptical of low price rigs. It’s either cheap enough to be a gamble or it priced like an antique. Everything in between is a hard sell from what I’ve noticed.

I wouldn’t lower your price. Just need to find the right buyer. I doubt it’s a price issue.

No need to mess with camber. It will either be in spec or you’ll need new ball joins (or you bent your inner Cs). Just focus on caster and centering the axle if it’s lifted (adjust control arms and track bar)

It got to late for good pics today. Will work on them over the weekend

You will have more clearance running 31’s and a dana 35 that 33’s on an 8.8

Especially if the pickup tube is pre-installed lol. That’s a tedious job. I tack welded mine in place once I got it installed so I knew it would never budge

You either want something super durable and hard (eg bedliner) or something easy to touch up (rattle can or 1k paint)

I used ppg ditzler and it’s great paint. For your application though id stay away from single stage or two stage paints and go with a rattle can or bedliner type product (monstaliner, raptor liner etc)

Pics coming tomorrow!

+1 rotate the know counterclockwise

lol, took forever to find that stupid leak. I’m all for such a thread. A compilation would be nice.

Is the air just not coming out of the vents? Try the blower motor as Minuit suggests but if it’s good you probably lost the vacuum connection from the engine to the hvac control panel. The engine vacuum come through the firewall right behind the expansion valve. Trace that vacuum hose and make sure it’s getting vacuum since it activates all of the motors that move the vent doors and gates