ghetdjc320

A cross flow head would probably be one of the best bolt on NA mods for this I6 but would be quite a challenging design. At some point though it’s probably worth just swapping in a different engine. I’ve considered that for my far distant future build. I think also if electric superchargers really take off that could be a neat power adder. Supposedly Garrett was coming out with one.

I like that late model center console. Been thinking about doing the same

Good to know. I just copied and pasted the vin they sent me for the parts truck. Thanks!

Very good points. The tire weight difference between 35/37 can be really significant. MJs sure do look good though on 37’s with the right lift

Almost identical. Same lift but the intake lobe has a different angle. I’ve never used a stock renix cam but I assume it would give just a bit more vacuum than the HO model.

I ran the 2229 cam and the profile was nice. Vacuum was good and idle was smooth. Ran it on a 4.2 “mini stroker” (232 crank in 4.0 block). The torque curve was a bit higher than the stock HO cam but it really didn’t give me what I was looking for. I replaced it with the comp 235 cam and it was much better off the line and and midrange. I was running stand alone ecu as well though with ported intake and Gibson header. It may do better in a stock configuration. Would also have been nice to degree that cam a bit to dial it in.

We have an ongoing discussion about some cams in this thread: Checkout Summit for the Mopar cams. They had the best pricing by far iirc. Edit: never mind, they are out of stock. You could easily have another manufacturer grind that same spec though. The only nice thing I liked about the Mopar cam was the lobe width which was about the same as stock. I believe Crane and lunati also have similar width. Most other manufacturers will have narrower cam lobes but they still work just fine as long as they are broken in properly.

This was probably my 10th 4.0 based build. I just started memorizing the specs after a while

And here are all the known Jeep 4.0 cam specs: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm Dino Savala keeps that site uodated along with the stroker site mentioned above. And for any 91+ 4.0 tuning contact chris@christuned.com His tuning of obd 1 is quite amazing and also tunes obd 2 with HP tuners.

The Mopar cam felt a lot like stock HO cam. About the same curve with maybe a touch more. Both comp cams added a good amount of torque under the curve between 1500-2000 rpm but fell flat on their faces at about 4500rpm. Haven’t tried Lunati, Crane or Isky. You could also do a custom grind with most of those manufacturers. Here is how I built my latest 4.0: 250k 96 block (first year for NVH enhancements) bored .060 decked for zero clearance (pistons actually .003 out of the hole. rotating assembly balanced KB hypereutectic pistons arp rod, main and head bolts Cometic .040 MLS head gasket Edelbrock aluminum head 63mm throttle body (63mm is the actual opening size on the HO and 99+ intakes 505 stage 1.5 cam adjustable roller rocker Molly pushrods Hylift-Johnson type S lifters melling high volume oil pump 505 Teflon cam bearings king main and rod bearings 99 intake ford purple 24lb 6 hole injectors JBA exhaust with TJ downpipe (wraps in front of the oil pan) Compression is just about 10:1 but with quench at .037 I get no issues running 87 though I mostly run 91. I don’t have access to a dyno here but this rig definitely outperforms my last stroker build in my YJ. I will say though that the aw4 really is a power leech. My next project if time and funds allow us to get the ecu socketed and tune it. I ran a Holley stand alone efi on the YJ but haven’t gotten around to doing that in the mj. And one last note: after having dealt extensively with Clifford, Hesco and 505 Performance, I really don’t recommend any of them. Some of their products are decent but between misrepresenting products, overpricing off the shelf components and terrible customer service I’ve come to group them all into my “don’t contact them unless there is no one else” category. Russ Pottenger does amazing work however and his pricing and skills can’t be beat. Clegg actually gave me really good customer service as did Hylift-Johnson and of course Summit Racing as always. Comp cams would also hardly ever answer the phone or a tech question but I just bought through summit instead once I knew what I needed. Edelbrock was very helpful and the guys @ efi systems pro (all things Holley efi) were also super good to work with.

I’ve run a few different cams. The latest cam I’m running is a 505 performance cam (not a fan of the customer service but the cam is nice). Keeps plenty of torque down low but keeps a surprisingly flat response and doesn’t die off at higher rpm. Granted, I built up my 4.0 quite a bit. Also ran the comp 235 and 232 along with the Mopar purple cam.

Nice find! Crazy how few HO's there are out there. No wonder the tech section is full of Renix era MJ's

This is the VIN recorded as the MJ my new leaf springs came from. Said it was a 91. What's left of it is located at J&W Jeep in California.

Good question . I’m about to pick this project back up. Will keep everyone posted

Yep, they are small slots at the base of the window facing the bed.

Good to know. Keep us posted

I don’t recommend the fords for your setup, that’s just for my engine which is built quite different. They would be like 30+lbs on you 49psi obd2 setup. Run stock injectors or use this as a guide: http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/custom3.html You need approximately a 20.4lb injector @ 3 bar (43.5 psi) to get that 23lb stock injector size (assuming the 98 ecu is used) 3 bar is what most injector flow rates are measured at. 43.5/49=.88 so if your trying to get the 23 lbs stock injectors then you’ll need something rated about 20.4 (I’d shoot for a 21lb injector at 3 bar). You’ll be slightly overfueled but can always trim that in the ecu.

The images you attached have an .heic extension. Make sure they are regular jpegs. There are 4 drain holes on the rear window frame. Are they all open so they can drain?

Not sure what specifically your asking form but even the control arm brackets are different on an MJ. The “bolt on” parts are the hood, fenders, doors etc. A lot of interior pieces are different. Kick panels, center console insert, floor bracing, interior trim etc. Lots of differences but practically anything can be fabbed and modified to fit

@Pete M can we add this to the DIY section? Great info and awesome pics

Good info . The ones in the link you posted will get you overfueled though. You can use ev6 injectors also with adapters. I run Ford purple injectors which are ev6 6 hole injectors and 24lbs @ 39psi.

If your running the return less system than I’m assuming fpr in the tank and 49psi at the rail. These are the wrong injectors for you. You will be overfueled. Not that the ecu can’t eve learn the new injectors but the injector pulse width will need to be a good amount below spec. You need injectors that flow about 21ish lbs @49psi for a stock engine.

If your going to be replacing the heater core and still have AC, I’d replace the evaporator at the same time while you have it torn apart. The job is all relative. If you done a dash removal before, it’s a pretty quick job. If you’ve never tackled it you may spend most of your time looking what what bolt/screw needs to come out next. Plan a solid day for the swap if you have all your parts and tools.

That’s pretty much what I just said. Except closed cell foam is worse than jute for trapping water.