Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fog lights'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Comanche Club Forums
    • Comanche of the Month (MJOTM)
    • The Pub
    • MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
    • MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
    • the Street Comanches
    • MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
    • Member Projects: Your Comanches
    • Member Projects: Other Cool Stuff
    • Comanche Registry
    • Adventure Planning / Regional Groups
    • Classifieds
    • Forum Issues, Ideas, Testing

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 3 results

  1. Hey All, it’s been a long time coming but I have officially completed this project and am moving into production. it’s just my wife and I making these by hand. We take our time and try to make these look and function as close to original as we can. As with all hand made products there will always be minuscule variations but we test each panel before we send it off and make sure we have good alignment and symbol illumination. Here is what we have: Switch Trim Covers These have been painstakingly reproduced to be a very close copy of the original. They definitely look great in my MJ and I’m very particular about the way things turn out. Here are the current versions: 1. Fog lights and Cargo light 2. Transmission Power/Comfort and Sport Bar Lighting (these things are like unicorns) 3. Sport bar and blank (for you manual tranny guys who want an original option) 4. Double sport/auxiliary lighting (a neat custom version that I decided to produce in quantity) 5. Custom one-off options are getting very popular! Custom panels are an extra $20. Even custom pieces are made to look like factory options. If there is a factory symbol available for the switch I try to incorporate that. See examples of custom work below Installation instructions link Factory replacement switches These are new OEM switches that are direct replacements for your old ones. They can be used to add pretty much any circuit you like and look perfectly at home (as they should) Switch Panel Illumination These bulb sockets fit the factory switch housing and can be spliced into your existing dash illumination so the switch icon is illuminated just like factory. These use the same “74” bulbs as original. Switch Plug Harness Pigtail These are the factory style switch plugs that are pre terminated with 24” wires so you’ll have plenty of slack. They plug into the switch and consist of a simple power, ground and load. If you decide not to use these you can use standard insulated female spade terminals available almost anywhere. The connector just makes it more oem quality and prevents a connector from coming loose easily. Timing: Current lead time is 2 weeks to ship. The first sets are limited quantity. Pricing: Switch Panels $40/ea $75/pr (only for the stock oem styles. Custom pricing will depend on demand but a one-off can be made if you really need one. Send me a PM for what you need. OEM Illuminated Rocker Switches: $55 /ea $100/pr. Some aftermarket rocker switches will also fit the hole so if your not concerned about a stock appearance there are plenty of other options that are more economical. I have a limited stock of oem switches also so I’ll have to see what the demand is for these. Illumination bulb socket and pigtail: $8/ea (these are very popular given that the oem ones tend to break easily) Switch Connectors: $Ask. Switch holders/Base $20/ea. These are factory switch holders that are cleaned, sanded and refinished. They look factory new. If you order them at the same time as the panels, they will come fully assembled. Shipping: pretty much $5-15 for anything you need. Will ship usps priority mail. Shipping times are about 5-10 days depending on where you are. Hawaii and west coast is the quickest. Ordering: Please feel free to shoot me an email or a PM for questions or to place an order. My email address is derek @ dbdguam.com (remove the spaces when typing). Please let me know what you need in your e-mail. Please also keep in mind that I am 16hrs ahead of Central time. Will have more pics up over the weekend.
  2. Apologies if this is in the wrong section. Please move it if needed. Just wanted to reference an installation guide for those who are replacing your switch trim covers with the new replacements. It’s fairly straight forward to install but here is a step by step: 1. Remove dash trim. There are a couple of screws just above the gauge cluster and a few others that will need to be removed. The bezel itself pops off once the screws are removed. 2. Remove the switch existing switch holder. (You can skip this step if you don’t have an existing switch holder and will be installing a new one) Each switch holder will have one screw and two tabs holding it in. 3. Using a thin metal instrument like a razor blade or utility knife, gently remove the switch trim cover from the switch holder. The cover is held on with adhiesive from the factory. Here is a pic for reference: 4. Optional: clean up the switch housing. Would also recommend cleaning up the blank face of the switch housing for proper installation of the new cover. 5. Test fit your new switch cover. Do not glue it down yet! You want to get an idea how it’s going to align on the housing. The switch cutouts need to be lined up As close as possible with the housing. This will ensure that the symbols are fully illuminated by the backlighting. Here is what that looks like: This alignment is crucial for the for proper oem appearance and illumination. TIP: align the switch trim cover switch cutouts with the plastic switch base. Each panel has been tested to align with the switch cutouts. If they are aligned well then everything else will line up just fine. 6. Glue the switch cover onto the switch holder. I specifically opted not to include the factory trim tabs for alignment. After testing them on different housings it became obvious that the moldings are not always 100% identical. I recommend using a gel type super glue. Place small dots of glue on the switch holder as shown: NOTE: be very careful not to use too much glue so that it doesn’t squeeze out when installed. If any glue gets on the face of the switch cover it may ruin it and be almost impossible to remove without damaging it. NOTE #2: Spray adhesives such as 3M “45” or “Super 77” among others also work well but don’t let you play around with alignment very much. The most critical aspect is making sure not to get any adhesive on the front of the cover. The back of the switch covers is a poly material that is fairly safe using a wide range of adhesives. The gel type super glue gives a few seconds handling time. As soon as you set the cover on, check and align the symbols so they are fully visible while looking through the light cutouts on the back. Each unit is test fitted before shipping out. 7. Once the glue has cured (make sure you follow the glue manufacturers recommendations) you can reinstall your switches and lights. If you also purchased new oem switches at the same time, the wiring from top to bottom is: ground, load, positive. These switches can be used to control just about anything. A note on lighting: these bezels have been made to recreate the factory yellow/green color using the standard original “74” bulbs. If you decide to use a standard white LED the glow will be slightly blue and will not look as good as the original filament type bulbs. I recommend sticking with the original types as this will produce the most oem appearance. We spent many hours and went through literally hundreds of different materials until we found this one that provides the best light difusión and symbol clarity. Using multiple layers, I was able to reproduce a finish that looks like it came from the factory when installed.
  3. Send me a message if you have one.
×
×
  • Create New...