ghetdjc320

I’d hate it on the trails.

Replacing all ball joints, axle shaft u joints, welding on artec C gussets and installing the arb up front.

Installed NOS mud flaps in the rear. These were NOS XJ fronts. I made some simple brackets and they work excellent. Also installed the hilift extreme in the bed. Installing the nuts on those upper mounting plate bolts was crazy.

Yikes thing thing is rough. Looks like a cheap tube bumper that interferes with the tires. Can’t believe they angled the front flare like that. Very shoddy work all over

For a 91? Where were you able to find one?

Just note that Rustys and Rough Country are sub-par. Grab a Zone, BDS, OME or piece one together as others have mentioned.

Here is another pic of how it sits

Fabed up a custom bracket for my arb compressor and finished integrating all the wiring. All my accessorie wiring is now integrated into my main harness and I completely re-pined the PDC to have all my fuses and relays completely factory. I used painless wiring power braid wire loom on absolutely everything along with self vulcanizing wrap and heat shrink. All splices are soldered and heat shrieked and all connectors are the waterproof kind. Really like this location for the compressor. Leaves room for my eventual PSC reservoir and I was able to get it installed cleanly along with the washer bottle (thanks to @eaglescout526)

So did the latches move at all? Is one side loose?

Just a quick note: unless you do a slip yoke eliminator you should not change your pinion angle. It should be parallel to the transfer case output.

I really like BDS components and they are one of the few companies producing a variety of low lift kits for MJ’s. The 3” lift is a nice setup: https://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7&mo=33&ty=39&yr=1986-1992 Regarding steering, look into the ZJ 93-98 grand Cherokee steering upgrade. It’s a bolt on upgrade and works very well with mild lifts. At 2” your stock track bar should still be ok but over that you’ll need an extended front track bar. You can get them in multiple varieties but many go with the JKS track bar. Above 2” you’d probably also want to go with some adjustable control arms to get your caster angles right again. I run metal cloak control arms for a TJ. Currie and metal cloak are the big brand go to’s but there are MANY other options. 2” lift with 31’s would be ok perhaps with some Napier or similar flares to open up your wheel well a bit.

The new gen d30 fronts a quite stout axles for a 30.

You two should exchange phone numbers . You can always post up what the final result is.

I saw that g2 makes a similar kit that's a little bit cheaper. Looks like the same thing basically to. Any chance you have a link? There was a specific spacer ring included with the teraflex kit to fit the old style d44’s that was a tough find with other brands. If G2 has that or doesn’t require it that’s awesome. Have you reviewed the instructions for that kit and are they specific to the early XJ 44?

@jdog asked: “which multimeter do you own”. Logically this would indicate that he is assuming you need help knowing how to use your meter. If you know how to use your meter and perform the test then the type of meter you have is irrelevant. it was in response to your question: “ ok explain that too me in a much simpler way kinda confused what I should do” Now in regards to your ohm test, your looking for the smallest number you get with your reading. So in your case .1 ohms which would indicate good continuity and minimal resistance in that circuit.

Thanks for the part number for those wheel studs. I never thought I would need them but the face of the disks are thicker than I imagined.

I just made a replacement for mine using some 1/2” birch ply that I bedlined. Works great and is a nice mounting point for storage and organizing behind the seat.

Look for a setting that shows the ohms symbol (google what it looks like). Or read the manual that came with your meter. What your measuring is the resistance or continuity of a wire from end to end. If a wire is damaged it will either have a high resistance reading from end to end or it won’t read at all (most meters display the infinity symbol). Put your meter in whatever mode shows resistance. Then touch both your black and red leads together. You should see 0ohms on the meter meaning that there is no resistance (aka there is a good connection). Now try testing the lines from end to end as mentioned in the previous posts. One lead on one end of the wire and the other lead on the other end of the wire. It doesn’t matter which lead is used in which end. If your still unsure what this process is checkout a YouTube video on measuring resistance with a multimeter. Remember, google is our friend

I’ll throw this out there since I don’t see that anyone has mentioned it yet: There is a general consensus on this and pretty much every other non mall-crawler Jeep forum to stay away from Rough Country and Rusty’s (it’s not a rule, but is definitely the prevailing consensus). If you have not yet purchased the Rough Country kit I would recommend you reconsider or at the very least take time to read the real life, long-term experiences from those who run their products and actually use them offroad. The kit you linked in your op has a super short overload spring which is just not the way to generate lift in a spring pack. If you go add a leaf, at least get a full length leaf since it will be a much better ride without fatiguing your other springs in the pack as much. The joints in the lower control arms, lack of extended u bolts, not addressing the track bar, pretzel stick twin tube shocks, it’s just not worth it imho. The only “budget” lift kit components I've had decent success with is Zone off-road. It wasn’t great either but decent. In a nutshell, there is no cheap way to get 33’s under your rig and maintain stock drive ability without a regear and some good suspension components. Regearing is not super complex but requires a decent investment is some quality tools, some math skills, and a lot of time a patience especially the first go around. And regearing will also require new carriers which in turn begs the question of “should I do lockers?” And the snowball effect is on. Larger tires also need better steering linkage. Your brakes may also need some upgrades. On the flip side a mild 2.5” or so lift and some 31’s and your truck will still be relatively happy and probably not start breaking things. 33-35’s are a bit of a tipping point for our rigs where things really start to add up. If you do decide to go with 33’s and are willing to do the supporting mods then perhaps consider the “metric” 33’s which are a bit narrower. All depends what rim size you run but I’m running 285/70/17’s and the width is about 11.25” which is a bit easier to work with than the 12.5” standard width 33’s.

Check your caster angle first to know what you need if anything.

What part are you referring to? Any pics?

Stock rake is near 2” IIRC. And yeah, like Pete said, those 3” springs will sit higher and may not settle for a while unless you have some weight back there. 3” rear and 4.5” front would be close to level once it all settle with just a bit of a rake. Not a bad idea to go lower up front though like a 3.5” as Pete suggests since it’s easy to add a small puck to achieve the desired ride height.