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Well I guess your looking for all the seals. For the door seals either go Mopar or get a set of 97+ XJ seals. The later models have a far superior seal. Aftermarket seals have generally very loose quality fit. The ones I had did not have the holes in the weatherstripping to release the air when the door closes. The pinch seam trim was also too thick and trim wouldn’t fit correctly. Picked up some oem seals and it’s night and day difference.

I’d grab a set of perches and u bolts from ruff stuff off-road if going soa. Bolt on soa is a bit sketchy imho.

Are you referring to the glass seals in the door or the door to cab weatherstripping?

Well I guess they do leave a small gap. Funny I never really noticed that until now.

The top doesn’t get trimmed hardly at all. The front and back openings get trimmed a bit but the cut doesn’t go past the spot welds in the pinch seam. Maybe 1/2” max. The opening is made bigger primarily because of the flare design not shrouding the wheel well so much. Notch fenders are another option but require more body work to make them look good. Imho they look much better if properly installed. The Napiers do reach all the way down.

It doesn’t exist. Only the XJ front components.

I considered using one of those also but didn’t want any panels covered. Should work just fine though.

You could also work with one of the floating display head units. I was going to go that route but decided it was just a bit too modern of a look for my old truck.

That depends a lot on the headunit you get. A lot of double din head units these days actually only use a single slot. Either way, there is plenty of cutting. The lower air duct has to be reshaped. I used a hot knife and just kept trimming until everything fit nicely. Then i sealed the duct back up. Many who do this swap delete the center vent but it is typically the best ac vent in the truck since it’s the first one after the evaporator

You could point your pinion up maybe 1-2 degrees if you like. Won’t hurt anything and can give slightly better clearance.

I swapped the location of both and installed a double din CarPlay unit. I think my write up is in the diy section

Step away from the drawing paper lol. I have never seen someone measure the angle of the tcase, it just isn’t that important. Your pinion should just be parallel with the ground. Unless your truck is nose high there is no reason to worry about your tcase angle. Are you running a tcase drop? If so, remove it and toss it

So... much... work... This is my daily driver so I’ve got to get it back together soon. Drivers side wiring has all been repaired and connectors for sensors replaced. Header installed and intake manifold cleaned up. Arb harness integrated and sub power also worked into the harness.

Fox has a huge lineup and wide variety of designs so it’s not easy to compare. Entry level mono tube Fox shocks would probably be the most comparable to ome. I’d vote fox since most can be custom tuned and rebuilt. I did run OME on my YJ and they were ok. Bilstein is another strong contender and what many here are running currently.

Correct, the one from the op is a one piece molded unit

It’s an sbec2 ecu and can be socketed and chipped with an eprom. The stock eprom is encased in epoxy but can still be removed and replaced. It can be completely tuned just like any other aftermarket system once the ecu has been socketed. There are several that perform these services but Chris @christuned has lots of experience tuning the 4.0 based platform and is a great tuner. To create a new base map, a data logger is required like a zeitronics unit. AFR is needed for sure but the more sensory inputs the better. MAP, TPS, exhaust temp etc can all be used to fine tune the map. The stock ecu can also be programmed to handle boost.

TJ ones fit just fine. Checkout the instructions for the JKS acos setups for the XJ and you’ll see how they all get assembled and removed.

Relooming and repairing all my wiring. Also replaced the sheet metal under the batter tray which was rusted out. I snagged a 97 xj pdc and will mount it side by side with the original pdc. Will run all my extra circuits through the new box. Also Por15’d all the sheet metal seams and pinch welds. Followed by a couple of brushed on coats of chasis paint.

Stripped some parts from a 97 XJ today. Going to be relooking my wiring harness and cleaning UI the wiring a bit. Will integrate another relay box for accessories and get everything in tip top shape. Thought about pulling the header panel from that 97 since it was already off. May still do that but not sure.

Negative. Your pinion needs to be parallel to the transfer case main shaft. Do not rotate your pinion up towards the tcase output or you will have a driveshaft that is out of phase. (Note that this only applies to driveshafts like yours where there is a single u joint at each end). Here is the info and explanation you need: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles and here is the pinion angle you’re looking for:

I’ll echo the above comments. Not a worthwhile swap. Only non 4.0 I’d consider this oils be a diesel like an om617 or perhaps an LS swap. All swaps are pricey though.

Is this for a double cardan driveshaft and an sye tcase? If it’s for a traditional style driveshaft (1 u joint on each end), then you want the pinion parallel with the t case main shaft. If using a double cardan style driveshaft then the pinion shout point about 1-2* below the tcase output. This way acceleration and cargo loads are accounted for as @MiNi Beast mentioned

Great minds think alike

Never was a fan of whataburger. But I’ll take a spicy chopped breakfast taco from Rudy’s every day. I felt like whataburger always covers over their burgers with so many extras but the fundamentals of a good pattie just aren’t there. Have plenty of friends who love it though