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Yeah Renix would basically guess the injection timing if it didn’t have a cam signal. Let us know how it goes and if you need any assistance.

Are you fitting a GM reluctor onto the flywheel or plan to do a crank damper reluctor? I’ve made a few stand alone 4.0 harnesses from the 91-95 harness also. It’s a simple option if you prefer to go that route. I’m no fan of the renix or obd1 systems either. Considering the fact that these engines will run on a carb and hei, a 4.3 ecu should have no trouble running it.

Can you upload a small clip or video of the play? Have you had the carrier out recently? There should be a set of shims on each side of the carrier just underneath the pressed on bearings. Make sure to keep the same shim packs on the same side and label everything for reference. Otherwise, if you plan to swap to a locker or setup new gears then you’ll have to setup new shim packs based on the new components. You can use a regular bearing puller to remove the old ones since they will be trashed anyways. Installing new ones requires either a press or a perfectly size pipe along with a 2.5-5lb hammer and a block of wood.

Sounds like carrier bearings. Due for an overhaul

Agreed. The terms “vintage”, “cool”, “classic” and maybe even “iconic” all come to mind but definitely not “better” lol

This sounds like the perfect question for @Minuit

Depends, is the whole carrier moving or just the ring gear? Are the caps on the carrier?

The ecu itself I have no doubt could run the engine but it’s comparability with the HO crank reluctor pattern I find dubious. That crank pattern is is only somewhat close to a Subaru reluctor. Unless we’re talking a Renix reluctor?? There are many stand alone ecu’s that will run the 4.0 (especially in batched mode) but most are not able to integrate with the stock HO cam and crank triggers. Aside from that, I don’t see what would be gained by using a GM ecu. Even the old SBEC ecu’s can be socketed and tuned. Renix is the only system that would need a piggyback to tune.

If you ever figure out how to do that then please let us all know

The HP Dana 30 does not use c clips. Front axles do not use C clips in general. The Dana 35 rear axles use C clips starting in 1990 and later. Actually, many rear axles use C Clips and the clip Itself is not generally a point of failure. There are a few disadvantages to c clip axles but I’ll save that for another thread. “Rip” would be a ripoff in my opinion. Wagoneer axles are decent if you can get them cheap. They make more sense in a YJ swap since they don’t need the brackets that are required for XJ/MJ/TJ’s etc. Most factory rear axles will be low pinion. There is a lot of confusion surrounding the HP vs LP (high pinion vs low pinion) and what the advantages are. The two main reasons one would choose high or low pinion would be better driveshaft clearance and better ring gear engagement/strength. The strongest practical design would be low pinion in the rear and high pinion in the front. The reason for this is that the ring gear has a sloped side and a “straight” side. The low pinion on the front basically pulls the ring gear on the slopes side which puts a lot of lid on the gears. HP pushes the ring gear from the top and on the flatter “face” of the gear. An HP front axle is an inherently superior design. Now there are some high pinion rear axle (like the Ford High 9) but are primarily used on competition off-road rigs. The goal with these axles is to provide the highest clearance possible.

Welcome onboard! There is one company making “reproduction” leaf springs for our trucks and the 4leaf spring pack they make actually lift the truck about 1.5”. The springs are good quality, and are listed as factory replacements but they definitely provide lift over stock. These are the only new spring packs that provide slight lift: https://www.generalspringkc.com/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-rear-leaf-spring-4-3-1-leaf-1280-lbs-capacity/ They also make a 5 leaf pack which will probably net you another .75-1” putting you at around 2.5” of lift on a stock rig. A 1.5” lift provides a very nice clean stance.

Those are Wagoneer axles. Good year for them also likely late 80’s. Probably have some pretty low gearing (2.72 3.07 was common. The axles are adaptable to an mj/xj using the TnT truss or you could sort out all your own brackets and geometry. I lived in Mexico for years and $600 is a rip for these axles though. I wheeled those axles all over the place on 35’s. The front is a low pinion axle which is a down side but the ability to put on some locking hubs is nice. From the factory they come with a slug that locks the axles all the time. A simple Warn kit fixes that. The brakes are a nice 12” rotor and they use the D52 style caliper which is readily available and offers decent braking. The axles themselves are quite heavy and will add a lot of unsprung weight. As for strength, the R&P on the front 44 are larger than the D30 for sure but the high pinion design of the MJ/XJ/YJ D30 is superior to the low pinion setup of the waggy axle. The high pinion D44 found in some Ford trucks is the cats meow for a 44. Just listing some pros and cons. For the right price I’d buy a set. Or better yet, grab the front only (for less than $300) and find a 98+ rodeo/passport rear. 8.9” ring gear, D60 pinion and disk brakes. Plus they are easy to find in 4.10-4.88 gearing. Now those are some very good 44 rears. Plus they have the same 6 on 5.5 pattern as the waggy front. This has been discussed in depth though, the low pinion 44 R&P is only marginally if any stronger than R&P on an HP30. The rest of the axle is another story.

I can comment that the 3.5 Metal Cloak tj springs also lift the xj 3.5” approx (depends on weight). I have a set of the 6” metal cloak springs now.

It’s a slippery slope. Try to pinpoint the issue before firing the parts cannon. I’d run a can of flush through the whole system again. As has been said before, these things are very easy to overheat if everything is not 100%. Before going the head gasket route, test your compression in each cylinder with all plugs removed and a full battery. If you need a radiator, just stay away from the cheap 2-3 core aluminum eBay/amazon ones. The regular parts store replacements have been decent (spectra premium, Murray etc). Otherwise it’s a big jump up in price to the next good radiator (novak, mishimoto etc). Most prefer a Stat or Mopar tstat. The open system is the newer style. Still a bit of a process to get it bled though.

Holly long posts Batman! I used that evap core (plate and fin style) and it took plenty of mods but works well. You’ll need to get the evap core probe worked out also for the ac select to work. I’d also recommend keeping the killmat off of the floor. There are so many leak spots in these trucks. Every single body seam is another possible leak point. I had redone my floors and applied dynamite over it all. 3-4 years of pinhole leaks and the floors had to be redone. Removing that stuff was brutal

I’ve bought lots of parts from headlight revolution. They are a good supplier as is “the retrofit source”. The problem with HR is that the good quality projector setups from both Starr and GTR don’t exist anymore. There are also very few 5x7/7x6 led options that stick around more than a couple of years. Another challenge is the depth that is available in a typical 5x7 headlight bucket. They don’t allow for many projector housing options so we’re left with short sealed style lights which simply have a very difficult time getting a good light pattern. Edit: took another shot of my light patter against the side of a hill by the house. The truck was sitting up at a bit of an angle. The cutoff is just below drivers eyes on most cars when they are approaching in oncoming traffic.

https://blackflamecustoms.com I used to run a set of GTR projectors in my YJ and they were just as nice. Excellent light dispersion and a sharp cutoff. The projectors I have now are made by black flame customs and have morimoto projectors, 35w 5500k H1 morimoto HID’s ballasts and relay harness. Starr also used to make a nice set but I think they are all gone now.

It’s easy for the drivetrain to transfer noise through various components. I had what sounded like a bad pinion bearing in the front axle. Turned out to be a bad transfer case front output pilot bearing that was making all the noise. Didn’t find it until after I had rebuilt my front diff.

What is your pressure regulator set to? If your using a stock style regulator on the fuel rail it will be set to 39psi. The fords are likely set to 3 bar (43.5psi) but some fords set the rates pressure at 39psi also. Keep the engine size correct. Set the fuel injectors up with the correct specs. Rated flow 24lbs at 43.5 psi. Actual system pressure (whatever the actual system pressure is). If you have no regulator and run the Holley pump at 60psi actual fuel pressure, the i hector pulse width will be far too low at idle. The terminator also requires the injector off time between 8-20v. Did you get that info in there? Let me know if you have any questions.

Blue flame customs, Morimoto projector retrofits with HID’s. There are no better headlights. They have been properly adjusted and do not blind any oncoming traffic.

Use the 94+ distributor on that. Much better cam sensor and is a straight bolt in. Make sure your indexing is perfect as well. You can see my recent post with a similar issue and the coil and indexing were to blame.

For driving on public roads, nothing beats a good quality projector housing. The light source is secondary. Many led’s are very bright to look at but don’t direct the light well and end up wasting light. They sacrifice precision for lumens. Off-road lighting of course can use light all over the place

Are you referring to the really big bearing that holds the original inner axle near the CAD? If so, there is no need to remove it as it should be contact the new one piece shaft but it can be popped out in the direction of the CAD opening. I have used a long piece of metal tubing with the carrier removed to get it out. It shouldn’t be contacting a 27 spline axle shaft though.

I haven’t seen the OP reply yet but just to confirm, you can use a 96 XJ obd2 ecu and simply splice in a 91-95 HO engine harness. Not too terribly difficult to make that setup a stand-alone efi system. That way no canbus gauges are needed.

Lol, darn squiggly lines!