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I should note as well that I’m running an accel coil with dui cap and plug wires.

Here is the info: To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.

Have an interesting issue I’m trying to diagnose without firing the parts cannon at it. First off, 91 4.0 AW4. Engine is a custom built by me and I’ve build a lot of these engines. I’ve eliminated a mechanical issue and am combing through electrical. The issue first came up under spirited acceleration around 4K rpm. The speedometer was bouncing a bit (factory electric speedo) and it straight up felt like a speed limiter was hit. Almost like a fuel cut. Disconnecting the Speedo at the t case eliminated the issue interestingly enough. I swapped in a 94+ style speed sensor with the 8v reference line and it didn’t have that issue again. Not sure if it’s related but it was the first issue I had. More recently, I’ve had some stumbling under acceleration. Then it started stumbling occasionally while cruising. The stumble feels like a lack of spark and is very brief (approx 1sec). It may stumble a few times while cruising and feels like it wants to die. If i baby it along it pretty much never stumbles. Seems to get worse after driving stop and go traffic. If it’s cold, it almost never stumbles under hard acceleration. What I’ve done so far: fue pump and filter changed. Fuel pressure is holding steady. New NTK O2 sensor. New NTK CPS (zero difference between old and new CPS). I’m thinking maybe bad coil, or some distributor issues at this point. Please let me know you thoughts as if like to narrow this down a bit and get everyone’s input before I but the next part lol. Thanks on advance!

To maintain factory rake lift it the same amount. Soa lift 5.5” or so over stock. Front needs to be lifted 5.5 over stock as well and you will have factory rake. If you need to fine tune another 1/2” or so you can do shackles.

Then raise it an equal amount front and back and you’ll preserve the rake. The rake is built into the truck from the factory based on spring mounting points along with the springs themselves. Any lift that lifts the front and back equally will preserve the factory rake. If you raise the front more it will “level” it. If you raise the rear more you will exceed the factory rake

The factory rake is about 2.” Meaning if you lift the front 5.5 and the rear 5.5 you will have factory rake (it won’t be “leveled”). If you lift the rear 7.5 and the front 5.5 you will lift the rear a couple of inches over factory rake.

I’ve considered doing this before. Curious how the raptor liner sprays and how UV resistant it is. That’s the biggest issue I’ve seen is chalking and trapping moisture under the liner if not prepped. Otherwise I do like the idea of the durability. Seems like the cost is about the same though for base/clear vs a good bedliner job

You might want to see if they have another model coming out.

The JCR unit is the best I’ve seen aftermarket if you can still get one. The dirt bound one is similar in design but not quite the same build spec. Doesn’t protect the corners as well, the d ring mounts are a fair bit smaller and their is no receiver hitch built in so you have to add a lower hanging receiver if you decide to tow.

Good info, thanks y’all. I’ll probably go the diy route as @AZJeff suggests. The shipping on those liners from rock auto to me is $120. I hadn’t realized how much those splash shield help prevent rust until recently.

New replacements if possible

Does anyone have a good source for replacement front fender liners?

Don’t buy mass backing on your carpet

If the tube is missing it will also leak back into the cab

They may still make it if you call them but last I talked to them they were planning on winding down MJ specific products. I was surprised they came out with a new MJ rack though. That only came out a few months ago. Maybe they’re redesigning the rear bumper?

They are a 15mm socket on mine

Negative, the 91-96 is a bit different

Hells creek, rustys and general spring all have an off the shelf rear spring. Alcan and national can make any custom spring. And the front choices are almost limitless. No need to touch RC with a 10’ pole.

Throw in an ARB and never look back

Ahh my bad, thanks

My .02 would be to steer clear of Rough Country

I think @schardein had one but not sure if he still does. Anyone have a clutch and brake pedal setup for a 91-96? Looking into an ax15 swap since one just popped up near me

Awesome, thanks Jeremy

Looks like you have an add-a-leaf in that leaf pack but hard to tell for sure in the pic. Not sure what the part is in that second pic. You should have a spring perch welded to the axle, u bolts that fit the axle diameter (approx 2.75) and a u bolt plate for 2.5” wide springs. The stock u bolt plates have the shock studs in them. Perhaps the wrong size u bolts where installed?? Take some more pics of the u bolts, perch, and springs.