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Treating and refinishing the frame now

Well I was just planning on fixing the rear window leak lol.

I’ve got 2 MJs now and after having lifted one SOA with 6” front coils and all the accompanying mods for a great smooth driver, I’m going to just get the other one to stock 4x4 ride height. If I was going 3.5” or more agin I’d go long arm front and rear.

Yes they will. The explorer has very small disk brakes and even 15” alloys fit fine.

The scrambler reminded me more of an eldorado or even a wagoneer with those long unbroken pieces of sheet metal. Not my favorite truck. This black jeep reminds me of a bobbed tail avalanche with that giant plastic piece behind the cab. To me, the brutes looked the best for a converted truck. VS If they did it right they should have had this:

What are you working on that needs a harness? Engine, body, tranny, what year and what engine.

There isn’t really a company selling a complete kit for MJ’s. For the front, pretty much anything that lifts an XJ will lift an MJ. For the rear your options are: add a leaf (1-1.5”), longer shackles (one inch longer lifts .5” and so forth), replacement leaf packs (2-4”), Spring over axle conversion (5-6”) or a 4 link style suspension which requires a fair bit of fabrication. You can have excellent road manners with a 5-6” lift on 33’s but it will cost more than most people normally anticipate to get it dialed in just right. As for particular brands, once you sort out the kind of lift you want for the front (leveling kit/puck, short arm, drop brackets, long arms etc) you can get very good direction from those with experience with what you are looking for. Same goes for the rear but there are far fewer options since the typical XJ lift will not fit the MJ rear. Here are my $.02: if you want to run 31’s do about a 2” lift and no more. Old man emu front springs/shocks and maybe a replacement rear 4 leaf pack from General Spring or maybe just a small shackle lift if you prefer a more “level” look. WJ front lower control arms (to prevent those 31” tires from running on the control arms while turning) and replace all the front end bushings with some quality rubber replacements. Replace the tie rod with one from a 1998 V8 Grand Cherokee (other ZJ bars are the same but the parts guys also ask for a specific year make model). And replace your ball joints with the Dana/Spicer kit and replace your tie rod ende with some quality pieces. If the rest of the rig is solid that will be a very nice overall performer. The next consideration is your axle gearing. For 31’s the lowest gears I’d go with are 3.55. Some have run 3.07 but it’s not a nice experience. 3.73-4.10’s are even better for 31’s Once you exceed 2” lift more mods are needed.

That’s often a point of confusion. I imagine some parts store “interchange” guides started this rumor. As Eagle said, all the 4.0’s use a “reverse” style pump which just means they turn the opposite direction of the crank since they run on the back or smooth side of a serpentine system. Any serpentine 4.0 will be a “reverse” style water pump setup be it a WJ, YJ, TJ, MJ, XJ, ZJ etc.

Looks like a gr8tops conversion. Not a fan when there is no break between the cab and bed. Reminds me of a Honda Ridgeline.

What RPM is it hitting when it ramps up when you start it cold?

For engine storage, use fluid film. It’s lanolin based and won’t break down rubber and plastic like most petroleum based products. It will definitely prevent rust. We even use it to fog engines internally here to protect from salt. Works very well.

Sweet, yeah it’s a very nice front sweat bar option for sure. I should have used the words NOS . That may have evoked a few drool emojis lol

I’ll repeat this because I think everyone missed it lol: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/

I used a piece of hvac insulation and kept trimming pieces until I got a nice fit. Works great that way.

Being an XJ axle you will have to re weld the leaf spring perches. If your comfortable doing that, checkout getting the 1998+ Isuzu rodeo or Honda passport rear axle. It’s a very strong Dana 44 with disk brakes and low gears from the factory. The only downside is that you would need either some different wheels or some adapters since the lug pattern is 6x5.5 just like that wagoneer axle. They are really great axles though and most places sell cheap since they don’t know they are desireable axles.

It does look like there are clutches behind the spider gears but hard to tell for sure. Every time I would get my YJ washed in Mexico they would do the “engrasado”. Love it, kept everything from rusting and it looked new. Just a light spray oil over the entire underside. Looks like someone has done the same with this axle. Monterey? I spent some time in Saltillo. I remember climbing all around the waterfalls in Monterey. Nice place

That’s correct. The interlock is activated with the ignition switch. My 91 is that way

The WJ is a nice swap but this deal is unbeatable: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/ it’s a 28mm sway bar and rides very nice. Direct swap, just change the bushings to the 28mm size. Make sure you don’t currently have a 28mm bar as it’s possible some may have swapped it kn the past.

They did. I haven’t seen too many of them come up for sale though. Those items are in the accessory guides for those years.

So here is the plan: cumins 2.8 with the ax15. 3.55 gears for the diesel but bump up to some 31’s with maybe an OME lift and an add a leaf. I’m debating on the outside still.

Revised my guess price. Hadn’t seen the description. That bed looks awesome

Love the blue and silver dash combo. Clean truck. I’ll call this auction at 13,200. Any other guesses?

@eaglescout526 Could you sticky that info in the DIY and write ups area?

I’ll echo the above. Get the right tools, vacuum the system replace the dryer and use r12a or convert to r134a. Ultimately they all work very well. Vacuum that system out thoroughly though and let it run for a good while and then close the gauges to make sure the vacuum stays and there are no leaks. Also, don’t overcharge the system. Many only look at the low pressure side and it’s easy to overfill if you don’t weigh the refrigerant as @Minuit suggests. If the ac system is custom though you’ll have to play with the full until you get it dialed in.

That makes sense. The gauge sweeps aren’t just opposite either, the ranges are different. You could use a Dakota Digital converter though. Apparently I have this problem on my 90. Someone swapped in an HO cluster and it reads backwards. But as I said it’s not like one is 0-90 and the other is 90-0.