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Not likely, your steering alignment may be a bit off though.

I suppose

If your planning on keeping that tire size 3.55’s are ok. Basically you have a metric 31-32”. It won’t be the best gear ratio if you intend to off-road or you have a lot of hills to deal with but it will work. I’d suggest 4.10’s for that tire size.

Bent drag link. May have gotten bashed on a rock or something. There should be plenty of clearance between the tie rod end and track bar mount

Two applications of fiber tech were applied to really get into any little nooks and crannies that are left over from the sheet metal work. Once it fully cured, I hit it with 80 grit and moved to the Rage filler. Took two coats for all of it and 4 total coats in some areas once the skim and touch ups were all done and feathered in. Lots of sanding especially block sanding to smooth out any imperfections. Took extra time on the backs of the b pillars and the blend lines to really smooth them all out. DA sanded it all in 220 to feather out. Tomorrow will be a final sanding with block then 220 DA followed by 2 coats of epoxy primer/sealer. Tape lines will be redone then it’s on the the final prep before base/clear. 3 coats of base and 5 clear so I can sand off the top coat for a perfect finish. How to have the bed back on over the weekend then complete the interior. Picked up some new ACC carpet without mass backing. That mass backing just crumbs and flakes all over the place plus it stinks if the floor is hot after a lot of stop and go traffic. Have a new cargo light going on also which is a custom LED unit. I’ll move into the front end after the interior is done and install the metal cloak 6” springs I picked up. Also need to install my transgo shift kit. Lots of work but definitely feels like I’m on the home stretch.

2 coats of Evercoat Fiber Tech over the welds. Followed by a couple coats of Rage filler. One final coat of epoxy primer to seal then in to base/clear. It has been raining here non stop for over a week so it’s slow going. Tape doesn’t want to stick among other troubles.

Makes sense. I recall seeing that info for motor oil in the ax15. Some “report” higher temps using motor oil in the trans and tcase. The data is hard to sort out though since there are so many variables. I can only report that sae 30 motor oil in the tcase on my mj has been working great for a while now. I also ran motor oil in my ax15’s. Worked very well for me.

4.56 is nice and peppy

Just finished all the heavy sanding and epoxy primed all the bare metal surfaces. I feel like pointing out that bondo or any other plastic fillers should not be applied directly to bare metal and especially not over any weld joints. That is just asking for rust. Over welded/repaired metal it should go: Bare metal (I use weld through copper primer under any overlap joints), epoxy primer, fiberglass stranded filler, plastic filler, epoxy primer, base/clear or singla stage. I tracked down so much fine surface rust just hiding out on the sheet metal especially under the rear window frame. Also, there should be no paint between the window frame and the window. The epoxy primer bonds excellently to the bare metal then you can lay your urethane window adhesive right on that epoxy primer once it cures. There should be paint under the window trim though, just not inside the frame itself. Factory doesn’t do it this way since it would take a lot longer but is definitely worth it. On my other MJ I’m going to start with a full tear down and media blast or dip the entire body/uniframe.

Correct viscosity clean oil and filter is way more important than minute additives. As was mentioned, the 4.0/2.5 are incredibly well lived engines even with very poor maintenance. Personally, I do use a little zinc additive to keep the cam happy since most conventional oils that I can get here lack that.

There’s not that much of a difference between 4.56 and 4.10. Definitely doable on 31’s. The crawl ratio is good also. And your setup for 33’s should the mood strike.

Correct, I misspoke. Same flange pattern. Different part number for the backing plate. The brakes are interchangeable though if you swap over the backing plates and internals.

2457 RPM in 5th gear at 70. That’s a nice place for the 4.0 to be.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html This will give you all the info you need for ratios and gearing

The passenger side drop was an early model. You can run a Dana 300 transfer case for the passenger side drop if you like.

I don’t mean the same part number. I mean the same flange pattern.

Refinished the truss and welded it in place. Also welded in some new flange nuts to replace the old stripped out frame nits for the bumper. Turning out excellent. Sanded down the whole back of the cab then prepped it with some mineral spirits in preparation for a coat of epoxy primer. After epoxy priming I’ll use some kitty hair resin filler to smooth out and metal work. Next will be a thin coat of Rage to smooth out any imperfection. Block sanding and then some 400 grit in preparation for 3 coats of base and 5 coats of clear. I’m using the door opening as my blend edge.

Finished the rear suspension this morning. Cutoff the old shock tabs which were welded very poorly and we’re barely holding on. Put on some new Ruffstuff curved tabs for better clearance and strength. Finished extending the sway bar links and getting everything dialed in. Note the sway bar is sitting a bit high at the moment but that’s because the bed isn’t on the truck. Once the bed, tailgate, hilift, tonneau cover etc. is all bolted back on the sway bar sits level with the leaf spring. The bottom of the old shock tabs were welded to the axle so water could not escape.

Try tightening the fittings first. If you have to reflare you will need to make a “double” flare. The flare has to fit the shape of the seat that it will be screwed into. If you look carefully at eagles picture you will see the conical seat in each outlet/inlet of that prop valve. This is what te flare should look like when finished:

Agreed. Looks like a normal setup. To the OP: tighten your those flares or reflare if necessary and you should be good to go. Everything else looks fine.

I’ve done it and built several of these combos. We also have a write up on these in the DIY section. What questions do you have? Edit: some info on the rodeo/passport rear

Had to extend the end links on the sway bar. They sent me two identical sets that were too short so I extended and welded additional length into each one. The links are made from a long grade 3 bolt and L-56 mig wire has nearly the exact same tensile strength and yield. gave it several passes and it’s quite solid. Plus it’s just the rear sway bar so it doesn’t need to be bulletproof. Next I removed the remnant of 30 year old bumper bolts from the frame and retapped all the threads. Tried drilling them out but after going through 5 cobalt drill bits I had to finally blow them out with the plasma torch. Next time I’m going to start with the plasma torch. They were completely fused to the threaded hole on the frame. Also sprayed the entire inner frame as well as the leaf springs with fluid film black. I have a shutz gun specifically for this stuff along with a couple of 360* wand extensions for reaching down in through the frame rails. Hopefully I can get another 30 years out of this before having to deal with any more rust again. But I’m pleased with the end result. All rust has been eliminated and the entire frame have been coated with DOM16. Any bad body seams have been repaired are resealed for zero water intrusion. Doing some custom work as well which I’ll post when I finish this up.

Second and third coats of chasis coating are now done. Working on installing the Addco rear sway bar now.

I noticed no one has replied. Only suggestion I have is to pull off your drum and see how wide the pad is. All the non c-clip Dana 35’s had 10” brakes. Same mounting flange as the Dana 44 also.